KiwiRS4T

The original aerial is in the side windows. I believe there are two connections that you need to make although I'm not good at wiring audio stuff.

The only way to set base timing is with a timing light on the no 1 coil

Duncan your rev limit looks pretty conservative for a forged and balanced engine - looks like it will continue to make power til say 7K? Here is my tune from yesterday. I was very disappointed with my first tune at 10psi - less than 200awkw. Next at 15psi produced 230awkw and now at 20psi have 280kw so I am confident that I will crack 300 with my final tune at 25 or more psi and another 500 revs (currently limited to 6000) It has always had heaps of torque though just not enough power at the track. Did 1min 24 at Hampton Downs with 230kw so will see if I can do better this Sunday

The original springs are coils. Not a good idea to cut them - get lowering springs for about NZ$300.

Get a manual box or as above an E-Manage piggy backed onto your stock ecu. Google "piggy back ecu " and "E-manage ecu"

Vipec/Link used for boost control with a Mac valve will be fine if set up correctly.

You can't mix and match. R33 and R34 are very different - dfifferent Atessas and different diff ratios ...R33 are 4.1 and R34 are 3.545:1 so you will also need speedo sende to match your diff ratio. Good luck with your project!

CAS types sorry photos didn't copy but you can tell early one becasue of metal case and Mitsubishi logo later one by plastic case (Hitachi). This is an R33 one (Mitsubishi) 23731 02U11 metal case This is an R34 CAS -(Hitachi) 23731 5L 300 plastic case I don't think the wrong one would engage properly with the drive on the end of the cam so if it fits ok you could just try reversing the wiring. R34 CAS pin 1 = earth pin 2 = power pin 3 = 1 deg pin 4 = 120 deg R33 Cas pin 1 = 120 pin 2 = 1 pin 3 = power pin 4 = earth And making it easier basically showing that: 1 swaps with 4 2 swaps with 3 3 swaps with 2 4 swaps with 1

This your problem?: Cat survives being dragged 20km under car By David Eames 4:00 AM Wednesday Sep 9, 2009 Email Print Andrew Beale with Albie, recovering after his car accident. Photo / Dean Purcell When Albie the cat didn't come home for his tea, his owners Andrew and Lyn Beale assumed the two-year-old tabby was busy exploring. They had no idea Albie was recovering from a brush with death and a 20-odd kilometre ride wedged into the front of Gail Tomlinson's car. Ms Tomlinson was driving past the Beale's Ormiston Rd, Manukau, property on August 20 when she felt she might have hit a cat. But seeing no evidence, she continued on to work at Auckland Airport, a 20-minute trip driving at speeds of up to 90km/h. When she arrived, she heard a "meowing" from the front of her Holden Commodore. A quick check revealed Albie tucked up in "a perfect little cubby hole" in the chassis of the vehicle, behind the number plate. Afraid to move him herself, a distraught Ms Tomlinson got a workmate to drive her car - "carefully" - about 2km to the Mangere SPCA, where a vet extricated Albie. X-rays revealed he had a broken back leg. "I was devastated. I was just beside myself," said Ms Tomlinson. Fortunately for the Beales - who distributed flyers in the hope of finding Albie - the SPCA kept the cat in the hope his owner would turn up. Word eventually reached the Beales that a cat matching Albie's description was being held at the SPCA, on painkillers for his injuries. Albie subsequently had surgery, running up a final bill of about $2000. Now he is up and about, recovering at home. He is able to put weight on his back leg, which has two pins in it, and should suffer no long-term consequences. Vet Craig Hunger said Albie should be fine, as long as the Beales keep up his physiotherapy. "To be stuck in a grill and not fall off is a very lucky thing ... there's a good chance they could have had a dead cat." Mr Beale said that when Albie turned up on their doorstep about five months ago, they named him LB, short for Lost Boy, which morphed over time into Albie. "I think now it might be Lucky Bugger." By David Eames | Email David Related Tags Accidents Animals Auckland Region Australasia Mangere New Zealand SPCA South Auckland Be part of the news. Send pics, video and tips to nzherald. Send Find a business in your area

I just rang this guy. He has posted them to Australia - total cost NZ$640 posted = AU$499.44

Is your bov mounted on a round fitting with a circlip or the normal 2 bolt type flange? If you have the 2 bolt flange you can buy a (or my) GTR bov which will look stock (well it is stock) but be a bit more robust than an RB25DET one. You still need to find a place to plumb the return in though - shouldn't cost too much to get a piece welded on your intake.

A lot of info seems to have got lost/become inaccessible since the last revamp of the Website. So far as I know the workshop manual has not yet been translated. There is an owner's handbook available. You can find R33 manuals online which take care of most of the mechanicals. Does your central locking work? There is a tutorial on how to tune your key to the car but maybe the receiver is faulty. The ecu is accessible via Nissan Consult not OBD - there are a number of aftermarket devices such as ecu talk http://www.ecutalk.com/ that give you access mainly on a read only basis. The plug is behind the coin holder to the left of the fusebox. HiCas delete should be the same as for the R33 so have a look in the skyline section (hopefully that is not broken too) and there are tutorials on getting rid of the hicas.

None of the options can compete pricewise with an RB30 block - are you sure you can't do that legally?

Its just a breather - it's meant to be clipped up -just cable tie it if its not.

Brand new injectors or second hand? Did you get then cleaned/flow tested?

Option 1 - Find another turbo off a neo - cheap but may not last 2. Send your turbo (or buy another cheapy) to Hypegear - other upgrades required... see below 3 I have been down the road of the GCG ball bearing rebuild - it works well but for very little more you could get a brand new GT3076. You could run it at low boost for a while but ideally you will need all of the following (hopefully you have some already) 1. 3in turbo back exhaust 2 Z32 afm 3 Bigger injectors 4 New better fuel pump 5. Better intercooler and then you should beef up your brakes and suspension and auto (ot better still get a GTR box)! You mention a tune so I assume you already have some kind of aftermarket ecu (Nistune at least).

PM sent Jaycar kits sold out Face only $30

400R is the Nismo built high performance R33 GTR! I have Nismo badged Stagea specific Bilsteins on my C34 Stagea. I can't find their website atm but I did once!?! Try them on your car first - rebuilding and revalving will not be cheap and you can see what sort of modfied valving you want

Too much toe in not enough castor. You want more like 6deg castor Toe in zero front and rear I am running 3 deg neg camber front and rear for the track but it turns in great on the street as well and no undue wear so far(4000km). Try at lest 1 -2 deg neg or whatever you can get with your setup

Hope not - my alternator is made by Mitsubishi as well!!

I guess so since the Link Display can communicate with can bus http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/electronics/auction-483667741.htm

Be sure to photograph each stage please - I am keen to do this soon!

Wow good job! How long fron start to finish?

You still need to change the crank to get a longer stroke. Is there a major problem with changing the block? After all a lot of recond engines are done on an exchange basis.

Have you tried more boost?