tridentt150v

LEDS are polarity sensitive....so reversing polarity on the plug will probably turn on the darkness switch. I agree with Duncan, if it was supposed to be plug n play then they are faulty. Take them back before you burn your car to the ground.

OK, I'll bite.......what other mods do you have to support such a change? Without a sh1tload of other stuff cams will do SFA. And also depends on the application.......284's might be too much unless you are hitting the rev limiter and racing?

I got new ones from a guy in Brisbane...nissanparts.com.au, great service, couldn't fault them. But have a read of this:

Could be a few things. Simple things: Try checking your belts, also leave your A/C belt off and see if the noise changes. Torn/worn belt, A/C or alternator bearings, idler wheel bearing [the one right down the bottom]. Harder: Check your timing belt, HB, idler and tension wheel, cam pulleys, water pump. Otherwise its probably something more sinister.

As 89 CAL said starter is likely, but I would also check the earth straps, esp. to the block. Starter motors can go lazy if the motor has a poor earth. Easiest way to check this is [is your battery in the boot?] use both jumper leads end to end and connect from your negative terminal to the motor direct then try starting again. If it works then its an earth strap, if it doesn't then its probably the starter motor.

Not sure if you are serious here...google it....magnesium wheels, aftermarket etc Try Bob Jane T mart etc.

Talk to Hypergear

Life just gets better and betterer!!!! I can't remember what I ended up paying for mine....but I got a belt kit at the same time so it was all lumped in anyway.

Of cause it could, but do the simpler things first OK. The oil pump sits at the end of the crank behind the HB, so you would need to tear all the front belts and HB etc off to get to it. To check your pressure using an oil pressure gauge will take $50-$100 for the gauge and 15 minutes to install - unless you can borrow one or get one of those mobile mechanics to test it?

Can't help you...I ended up having to replace the pump, but this time round I purchased a proper RB25 one [well a non RB30 one anyway]. Did the belt, idle wheel, tension wheel and such at the same time.

Nah...throw it away, its not needed.

Thanks guys, I agree to a point. And the theory and the author/inventor?? certainly points to the idea being a good one....and we can do it and not have to pay royalties etc because we are not a business. But before making any life changing decisions I would like to see an independent appraisal. I am surprised that more track cars don't use it though....this puts doubt on the concept.

Has anyone read this? Has anyone tried it? Does it work? A few people have looked at the thread, but nobody has anything to say in the concept, I was sort of interested. If I finally went to an RB25/30 and did this would I get the gains the OP is stating?

Poly Quad Heads Interesting read..... http://www.motortecmagazine.net/the-future-of-4-valve-engines/

Probably auto ranging....my gauges do this [not my boost controller, just gauges].

Electric Turbo Interested to see this: The use of a 48V system also allows engineers to fit on an electric auxiliary turbocharger (eZV) that could spin up to 70,000rpm within 0.3 seconds to deliver an immediate throttle response and zero lag. Full article: https://www.carsguide.com.au/car-news/next-gen-mercedes-engines-bring-48v-electrics-and-the-return-of-the-straight-six-46903?utm_source=taboola&utm_medium=msn-australia&utm_campaign=taboola_alwayson_desktop and how long will it be before we start tearing out our exhaust gas energy turbines and installing a 48v electric one? It could be a game changer.

Another 'very happy' lonely goat herder!!!

I always put it on the diff, but use a piece of rubber matting around 10mm thick with it as a buffer. Nice gloves BTW

Yeah, looked suss, maybe an April Fool joke? I haven't tried it, don't have a rusty bolt or nut to use it on yet.