GTSBoy

The only way that the water vapour itself can boost exhaust flow, beyond the simple number of molecule increase, might be the specific heat capacity. H2O has a somewhat lower Cp than CO2 does and so it will increase to a higher temperature (for the same thermal energy input), which increases volume flow rate (from thermal expansion). OK, so H2O also has a slightly less ideal (ie, non-ideal gas) characteristic and so probably expands a little more also, But that effect will be tiny. But all this is thrown out the window because we know that E85 exhaust is actually cooler, because of the extra mass of fuel that needs to be evaporated and heated to exhaust temperature. So.... I dunno. My main suspicion on increased spool is that you can and do run more ignition advance.

Pls allow the combustion engineer in the room to correct this. Ethanol does in fact have a bit more exhaust gas volume than petrol, but it is nowhere near 25-30% extra. The only difference is that ethanol has a higher H:C ratio, so makes more water vapour. For each O2 molecule you use to oxidise a hydrogen, you will create 2x molecules of water. With carbon, each O2 only makes 1 CO2. While you might use 25-30% more fuel on E85, you use almost exactly the same amount of air to make the same power. Therefore you use almost exactly the same amount of O2, and hence N2 (from the air). The reality is that the extra water vapour and smaller qty of CO2 really just increases the exhaust gas volume by a few %. Maybe 5. I'm not about to go do the stoichiometry calculations. But, I have recently been doing exactly that for H2 replacement of natural gas in industrial applications and even then, when you're talking about only making water vapour and no CO2, the increase is not as fat as 30%.

Yeah, it's the pressure switch. All that goes in the bin. Of course, you'll need a new diff, casing, centre, etc.

So many people say they have a GTXXYYr when in reality they have a ChinaBay/offbrand copy.

Not sure how that's true. We're just talking in a tangential direction.

I dunno. Looks like if that thing at the top is the "clip" that you're asking about, then that end looks like a hinge/pivot and the bit you unlatch would have to be at the bottom, hiding behind whatever is blocking the view at the bottom.

Yeah. I had the same fitting some CF Bride reps into mine. Ended up doing some very small mods to be able to run without some thick washers that are "required" to fit the seat to the rail. Gained myself a few mm, still feel like they're too high. Didn't want to go for the "ultra-low" rails as they are a different type of headf**k.

A 9.5 would absolutely need a lower offset than +30.

I. Am. Agog.

I wouldn't even think that it is inherently "thermal efficiency", so much as just being able to operate in a manner that is simply not possible with high octane petrol alone. I mean.....no-one knows what the thermal efficiency of the engine is operating at the boost or ignition advance (that you can run with ethanol is) when operating on petrol, because you only get 2s of operation then the engine blows up.

Get a bit set that has a right angle driver handle thingo.

Security Torx

4 of those are no video videos 4s long of a slowly accelerating noisy exhaust. The other one appears to show 0.5s of fluffy running after you tap the throttle at idle. Not a misfire. Dunno what it is. But it's not a misfire.

It might have been even worse, like 11 times. The maths is relatively easy. Solid shaft of X diameter. Y torque applied at launch, with a little extra effort put in for the fact that it's a dynamic situation, not just statically loaded. The core shaft in the torque tube winds up, then unwinds as the torque is fully delivered to the diff end. I'll see if I can find the post on it. I think it was on PF, like, 15-20 years ago.

Porsche 928 torque tube in an SA Sports Sedan thingo was reputed to build up something like 7 complete twists at grid flag and clutch drop.

The boost controller was earthing through the light's power side and the light. It's really somewhat fortunate that there wasn't a fuse problem or a fire, is what I think.

The very idea that having the boost controller powered from the ciggy lighter socket's power wire would prevent the socket's lighting ring from working is pure crack pipe. What the actual f**k? The lighting is a separate circuit!!!!!

Nononononononono. The GKTech fan is intended for SR motors. It is actually intended to be a better match for them that the OEM fan, but....when put on an RB, they just don't work well. Brand new OEM fan. Do eeeet!

Ah, the joys of discovering other people's crack pipe wiring.

There is no igniter module. Robbo saw RB20 and glossed over the fact that it's a Neo, that doesn't have one. The old R32 era RB20s did. Your igniters are built into your coils. All the advice to check ignition components is valid, however hot misfires from failing ignition components usually tend to show up under higher load, rather than just off idle. My question is, is it actually a misfire that you're experiencing, or more of a stumble to near stall? Dirty idle control valves can cause nasty transition from driving to stopping and vice versa. As can dirty TB.

Here you go. Look familiar?

Are you wanting someone to draw a circuit diagram for you?

Not initially, and also not ultimately. If the HICAS tie rod ends are in good condition, then the HICAS rack itself can serve exactly the same function as a lock bar. All that is required on an R32 to kill HICAS is to pull the smaller of the two loom plugs out the back of the HICAS CU. Stops working, no dash light (probably because the dash light wire is on that connector!!). The HICAS CU will lock the rack under a fault condition, meaning that it is "fail safe".....for a given definition of failsafe. I just happened to find a loophole (the small loom plug) that allowed me to exploit the design. Later, I swapped the original HICAS rear subframe out for an A31 subframe with no HICAS. This is basically equivalent to fitting a complete HICAS eliminator kit (as opposed to just a lock bar). Lock bars keep the HICAS tie rods and they must be in good condition (ie the rod ends not worn). Eliminators can and should replace the original tie rods and the rod ends, replacing them with the sort of bushing that is used on the non-HICAS cars anyway. I just skipped all that aftermarket crap and went to an OEM Nissan solution to the same effect, that also happens to look completely factory, so that there are no obvious "steering system modifications", which would trigger raised eyebrows on a roadworthiness check. My car was going to have to go over the pits at Regency as part of the engine transplant that was happenign at the same time, and it sailed over without a word said. A lockbar or eliminator kit would possibly have got me in trouble. There is no "fluid" iin R33 HICAS. This was the next generation of HICAS where the rack was electrically actuated.

Yes, as part of a system that was designed around having that fan. On RB engined cars, the radiator was sized around the air flow that could be pulled by the engine driven fan, which is an enormous number compared to what you can pull with even the best electric fans. So, your experience is that it works. But when you present it with a challenge, such as idling in a traffic jam at 45°C ambient air T, 50+°C road temperature (which is a common event where I drive mine) then you will likely find that the electric fan version will suffer a lot earlier than the engine fan one will. And that is why there are only a couple of 14" electric fans that people say are acceptable, because these are the only ones that have managed to get close to the performance of the stock setup, with all others found to be not-as-good(TM).

Just do it.