GTSBoy

Isn't there a set of these for sale on these forums right now?

It'll be fine.

Well, if it ain't spark, it's probably fuel. Weak pump? Dirty injector(s)?

There's a set on eBay right now for $291.

Nengun, Amayama, RHDJapan. Ebay. In Australia we also have many wreckers and places like Just Jap for old and new parts.

If by "I have" you mean they are already in the car, you should probably close the plug gaps up a little bit.

3 times is the magic number.

Weak ignition.

Hi, It might be a bit of a pain to pack up to send, but what do you reckon the odds of sending the front guard liner plastics to SA would be? I'd probably grab a HICAS CU while you're at it. cheers

And......did you bleed it properly through he 2x bleed screws?

Oh, the compression difference is wholey and soley because of the different (flatter) combustion chamber shape in the Neo (and therefore different crown shape to keep approx the same compression ratio). But I may have just painted myself as an idiot. I still actually thought that the rod length was different, not that the 2mm stroke difference was in the pin height in the pistons.

I'm increasingly of the opinion that the splines in the hubs are to blame for a lot of the clunk. Add that to all the other little slops. I also wonder if the back end of the gearbox contributes. Because I've had similar experience with trying to get my S15 helical set up nicely in my R32. Spent to get it put together right the first time. Tried to find the clunks. Spent more to get it pulled apart (different shop, for independence) only to get the "It's not the diff" report. Le sigh.

Oh, I just realised something.......the Neo DET used RB26 rods. There is therefore a difference in the height from the pin up to the piston crown on the Neo DET pistons compared to other 25s. Not the same as vanilla RB25. I have no specific knowledge of the Neo NA....but I would not expect that they used the 26 rods in it. So, if your plan is to put pistons that you order to suit a Neo turbo onto rods from either the vanilla 25 or Neo NA....I would expect them to not work. More research required, and potentially you will be better off ordering pistons and rods, or some other piston.

75-80 refers to the viscosity of the oil in "winter" and "summer" respectively. It's a multi-grade oil that changes its apparent viscosity with temperature. When its cold, it acts as if it's a little thinner (the 75) and when it is hot it acts as if it is a little thicker (the 80). The other oil has a wider difference between cold viscosity and hot. So which one you use might depend on where you live and/or how the car is used. If you live in a cold part, you might use the 75-80. If you live in a hot part or the engine and gearbox get driven hard for extended periods (and so dump a lot of heat into the oil) then you might choose the heavier oil. As you say, if your box is in good nick, there's no need to put shockproof in it. Just use the VMX.

Followed by compression test. The last thread like this ended up being a broken piston.

I can't speak for R34 conversions, but my auto to manual converted R32 has no difference between auto and manual brake pedal height (ie, comparing my now manual pedal in an auto chassis vs a manual pedal that was always in another manual car). And it is an excellent height for heel & toe, subject to the caveat that I am old school and use the "roll the foot sideways and press throttle with side of foot" technique and not the "swivel the foot on the ball and press the throttle with the flat of the heel".

Worst case you take off cam covers. Plus what Ben said.

coils

I'm sure it's been done dozens of times.

I think you would struggle to get an R200 into an Evo. The Evos are only R180 equivalent or something similar, and they have weird-arse moustache bars for front mounts and so on. They're different enough that it would be challenging. Having said that.....I do know of some Evos having had other bigger diffs grafted in. Just not the details. I tend to think that there would probably be better diffs available from much later Skylines and other Nissans and Toyotas, than the old jiggers in R chassis cars.

Well, if you're going to go down that path - given that the cam profiles are barely different between turbo and NA, and given that the turbo pistons give more combustion chamber, there should be more clearance. And if there is not, a trial fit up will tell you whether you need to mill a couple of spots on the pistons. I would bet $500 that there will be no issues.

It's worse than that. There's a whole niche of late Stageas with engines that are about half-half vanilla and neo and I don't know what's inside them (ie, do they have the RB26 rods and N1 oil pump? Do they have the solid lifter head?).

Or you drive an ALFA and have not renewed the synchros in the last 6 months.

Neos are solid lifter. Injectors are top feed. IACV is different, etc.

With a good ECU and good tuning you are going to make exactly that. Moderate power, nothing too crazy. With the high comp pistons. It's not as if they are HIGH COMP. The compression ratio is still sensible enough for decent boost. I wouldn't change the pistons for this build.