GTSBoy

Well, everybody knows you put the bigger brakes on the front, so you have to have the bigger wheels there. Old Porsche 911s are the only ones allowed to break that rule.

Probably not. If you read through what I posted above, it should be clear that I do not think that there is a "resistance" that you could measure that would tell you what you need to wire in, because I don't think that wiring in a resistor will remove the seatbelt light. What I actually think happens is that the seatbelt switch effectively removes 12V from Pin 16. The way to mimic that would be to simply put 12V onto Pin 16. But I must stress - I would not trust my say so!!!!! That is all predicated on me understanding how that seatbelt switch works to make the light come on, and what must therefor happen on the line to Pin 16. I could be wrong. That kind of lines up with what I was thinking would happen. The seatbelt switch does not appear to be able to affect that light. Not helpful though. Yes, that's what I'm saying, unless you know for a fact that that is how other people have solved this problem. In which case they know something that I don't, because I can't see how it would work. And keep in mind, that my recommendation for a pot was only for working out what resistance you need. Not for permanent install. replace pot with fixed resistor for maximum happiness in these situations. (Stops it getting accidentally maladjusted 3 years later and causing problems).

Now that I see the wiring diagram, you do not want to just hook up the resistor across those two pins. If you look very carefully at the circuit in the box on the left, you will see that it is a voltage divider of some description. 12V comes in the top, earths are at the bottom. Now there is more than one thing going on in there, and I am not sure if everything is to do with the seat belt switch, but let's just look at the switch for the moment. What I don't know (because I've never cared) is whether that switch is open or closed when the belt is not clipped in. I'll take a punt that pin 16 on the SRS module has high impedance, so when the switch is closed, current will flow through the seat belt warning lamp, through the switch and out to earth, giving a warning lamp, indicating that the seat belt is not clipped in - and pin 15 sees a low voltage. If you clip the seat belt in, the switch will open, no real current will flow, and the 12V will turn up at pin 16. The seat belt warning lamp is a globe, so it will have some resistance, so it will contribute to a small voltage drop from 12V....but how much depends on the impedance of pin 16 and the globe itself. You'd have to measure these to be sure, but it's quite likely that it is almost all the 12V turning up on pin 16. Pin 15 is a different story. The SRS warning lamp is an LED, so it does not have the same V=IR behaviour as a globe. It will have some fixed forward voltage drop, and I don't know how much. I also do not understand the drawing of the wire that looks like a sense line reporting from the earth side of the LED that goes back around into the side of the LED, appears to go out the other side and go back to the wire that runs to pin 15 on the SRS module. Ignoring all that, the 12V comes in the top and through the resistor then goes over to pin 15. If the seat belt is not clipped in (using the assumption I worked through in the above paragraph) then the switch will be closed and current will flow down through the seat belt lamp as before.....but there should still be 12V at the top of that circuit, so I can't see how the seat belt switch would affect the SRS warning LED or what turns up on pin 15. I can't see how the switch being open or closed will affect the voltages and currents around the resister and the SRS LED in that voltage divider circuit. In short, I do not understand the circuit enough to advise you. You should have perhaps lead with the diagram, because I just assumed you knew that you simply needed to put a resistor across the wiring - but that's not clear from the diagram at all. It is quite likely that the SRS module is able to compare the voltages that turn up at pins 15 & 16 and make decisions based on that, but that's just a guess. Maybe someone who is actually more familiar with that type of circuit will wade in.

Just for sitting there? Don't worry about it.

Can't tell you. For one thing, I have no idea what state you are in. And even if I did, I don't know the rules in QLD, for example. All the states do things differently, even though they are supposedly all working to the same rules. What I told you about the various suspension mods earlier is all true. But how you get treated for those items will vary. I know for one thing that here in SA, they did not even blink when I fronted for a complete roadworthy inspection (at Vehicle Standards, not some blue slip mechanic) with my HICAS completely pulled out and replaced with a non-HICAS rear subframe. It looked completely standard, therefore it was. If I had turned up with a lock bar or possibly even a delete kit, they would have seen it and maybe questions would have been asked. I can also tell you that I was told, in no uncertain terms by the inspector, that had I fronted with coilovers, they would have been perfectly happy to pass the car, so long as the adjuster collars were welded to the body so that you could not lower the car past minimum. No engineering required, but definitely have to "fix" the coilovers. I did not try my luck with any adjustable suspension arms with spherical joints. I put standard ones on for the inspection. At that stage it was only the caster rods anyway. So, yes, many people do "have to do this" to clear defects. If it isn't within the rules, you will usually be hard pressed to get it passed at a proper inspection.

I was going to say "I can't imagine how a non-LSD 4 pinion diff could get into a Skyline. Therefore assumption is it's an LSD." But a closer look at the one view of the end of a pinion through the opening suggests that it might be open, rather than LSD. In which case, have you got a boat(?), because it would make a nice anchor. In which case....oops. I didn't look closely enough.

I guarantee you that "missing on idle" (note the correct spelling helps with searching) will turn up many many many threads talking about vacuum leaks, air flow meters, dirty injectors, and coilpacks. And if you have bought technicolour coilpacks, even them being new does not mean they are good.

Most of that is not a "list of modifications". Most of that is fairly standard. The adjustable suspension arms will likely fail a roadworthy. To be precise, suspension arms with spherical/ball end joints on them are not road legal unless engineered. Most adjustable arms have been equipped with spherical joints, and so the rule against sphericals is applied to adjustable arms in general, even though it's not strictly why adjustables were "banned". So your mileage may vary, depending on how bright the inspector is. Adjustable height coilovers are also not road legal, unless engineered, and usually welded at the minimum permissible height. The HICAS removal is technically "modification of a steering system" and therefore also not legal without engineering. Again, your mileage may vary.

All the ideas have been posted on here before. Why not search?

But.... I am not suggesting that you hook up all 3 terminals of the pot to the wiring of that plug. You need to know which 2 wires off the loom plug that you need to put the resistor on.

Yeah. You use one end terminal and the middle. The middle is attached to the wiper. The end terminals are attached to each end of the resistor.

Air bag should not go off at zero speed. Also, anyone who designs a safety system such that an explosive part of that system will go off when a peripheral sensor is not functioning properly needs to be kicked in the nuts. Right now, you have no resistor = open circuit = light on. Wire in 10k pot set to 10k ohms - should be much higher than the threshold value I would expect to "close" the circuit. But if you're paranoid, you could go all the way to 20 or 50k as a starting point. Work your way down until the light goes out. If it turns out to be less than 1k, then probably better to experiment with a 1k pot, just to get a better guesstimate of the resistance required. 10k pots are a bit coarse. Oh, and use linear pots too, not logarithmic. I would expect the target resistance to be a nice number like 500 ohms, or 2k or 5k. We use 2k & 5k a lot in industrial sensor loops to represent a working loop.

Standard Nissan FP is ~43 psi. So, no you know that it is not standard.....what next?

Buy 1k and 10k pots and have a twiddle. When it goes off, measure with multimeter and replace with fixed resistor to same value.

You could google the part number on the Weber item and find out if it is a reg or a dampener. You could follow the fuel lines from the supply (the filter attached to the tower is the supply) and up through the various items, including the fuel rail and map out what devices are where, in what order. and what is supplied with a vacuum line, and work it all out for yourself.

No. The roar from a blown manifold gasket will be SUPER annoying long before ANY gauge can show you anything.

Same box.

Riddle me this. How much air do you think can come out of the leak compared to how much the turbo can pump? Enough to drop 1 psi? 2? How much 'til you notice? You would hear it looooong before you saw it on a boost guage.

Well, the reg down between the strut and the manifold is clearly not standard. As to the other one....seeing as I can barely see anything in your photo because you were standing on the other side of the country from your engine bay when you took it.....it is more than likely the stock pulsation dampener that sits on the rail.

It's the same small body gearbox as the RB20DET. Can't remember the codes for sure, but I think it's RP71C. There is supposed to be a 1 or a 2 after that, with 2 meaning twin synchro, which I think were the later ones.

No it wouldn't. Gap would have to be MASSIVE to let that much air out.

That's why I did not put any aftermarket gauges into my car that were already on the dash. Well, except the boost gauge, and I probably should swap that out for something else. EGT, Oil T, & boost, in the centre console. 3x 52mm panel. Works and does not crowd the place out.

Yeah, nah. Coolant temp is not an indicator of EGTs. You need a pyro or 6 installed to see that.

Hydraulic problem. Not getting enough movement at the final element in the chain.

You are going to be looking for no power where you should have power, no earth where you should have earth, no switching from OFF to ON when you should be having such switching (ie relay testing), etc etc.