GTSBoy

The only good spot is the hot pipe.

Yes, but at the same time, no.

Pffft! I'm gradually losing the fight against spherical joints in my suspension and I am never upset by any increase in NVH or stiffness that comes along with each new install.

Swap the front half casing from the old R33 gearbag onto the R34 box and use a push clutch. You'd be mad to persist with pull clutch. In desperation, there are push to pull conversions available, or you could even go concentric.

Do it properly. Add a nipple to the hot pipe.

Don't clean the O2 sensor. It doesn't need it/can't benefit from it/has a fragile ceramic part.

"Clean" as in "low enough counts of coliform bacteria and other gut twisting nasties that you can drink it without fear of shitting your insides out afterwards. Not necessarily "clean" as in "freshly melted off a virgin glacier that last saw open atmosphere sometime before the mammoths went extinct". Adelaide has some of the "cleanest" water in Australia. By this I mean that our water traditionally made it to our reservoirs by trickling across cow paddocks and so the old engineers at the E&WS had to learn how to clean it good to make it safe to drink. Doesn't mean that it wasn't nasty tasting, hard as rocks and chock to the brim with chlorine. By contrast, Sydney had it so good with water that original fell on pristine mountainsides that their water supply engineers never learnt how to scrub water properly and so for years and years there were Giardia outbreaks and the like, that only stopped when some E&WS engineers went across and taught them how to do it. In some places, like Bunbury in SW WA, the water falls from the sky nearly every day, but still somehow manages to taste like it was filtered through some rusty steel wool. Safe to drink though - just nasty tasting.

So there it is. It's probably a 470 kOhm resistor. 470k being a typically available size that is close enough to the ~500K resistance offered by the knock sensor. That stops the ECU from thinking that the knock sensor is absent, but doesn't otherwise do anything.

That little thing is a resistor. What you say about it being involved in pins 16 & 17 is hard to reconcile with reality, as pin 16 is connected to the ECCS relay (which is the main relay that starts up and runs the ECU) and pin 17 does nothing. If I were going to put a resistor anywhere on an ECU connector, it would be to fix a water temperature (which would be both a very bad idea, and be pin 28) or across the knock sensor (with a 500kohm resistor) to fake it out if it has been removed (also a bad idea, and would be on pin 23 or 24). But those mods would be on the ECU side of the connector. Doing it in the loom side is tres weird. Would you care to please show a photo and sketch of the damage?

Well.....it's an NA. So there is no point in spending a single dollar on trying to make it go faster, because it won't. You can make it louder, and that's about it. Don't buy another AFM for it yet. The one you have might be a piece of shit, or it might be OK. Put that to one side for the moment. See if you can locate someone with a known good genuine one that you can test run. The CEL issue could still be cat related, particularly the overtemp sensor problem I called out earlier that no-one seems to have noticed. I would look into that first. You should also consider the O2 sensor as a likely candidate for running rich. Ideally you'd take it to a mechanic who has a good scan tool and you'll be able to watch the AFM voltage and the O2 sensor voltage as it is driven and see if they make sense.

I dunno. The hex on the valve will be something large, like a 22mm. If you don't have the right spanner to put on it, you can always put a 10" shifter on it, then measure the opening of the jaws (if you want to buy a spanner) or use some vernier calipers to measure it. And yes, there's no need to worry until you have the new one, and you can measure that.

Haha. I'd forgotten it was NA. Just put an LS into it.

If by this you mean the stiffening rib in the floopan, then probably yes. There would be no way that it would be attached to the actual subframe. That would be silly.

Neo has a combined IACV and AAC on the back end of the plenum. Coolant heated (it's got a bleed point on it). No electrical heat. Works very nicely when it is clean.

The other option is to go the Nistune route. Buy R35 AFM and adapter tube (for <<$700). Spend >>$700 on Nistune install. Switch from stock AFM to R35 in the software, boost off into the sunset. Not necessarily better than the full ECU router (in fact definitely not cheaper than the full ECU route) but definitely going to be cheaper to get from "What the f**k is wrong" to "It's working now".

It kinda is controlled by the ECU - in that the power to run all this is from the ignition relay which is all tied up in a loop with the ECU and the ECCS relay.

Bah! I just went and had a look. Pretty much all of the switches that I would have expected to be externally sourced and sunk at the ECU (on R32, such as TPS, neutral switch, etc) were ECU sourced. And now I have to wonder what sort of drugs the automotive engineering world have been taking.

CEL is also the catalyst overtemperature alarm (which should be obvious by the appearance of the graphic in the light). It is a better than even bet that the temperature sensor is f**ked from having been unceremoniously hoiked out of where it is supposed to be (ie, the missing cat).

Nope. No idea. What do you mean by "bolt" anyway? The banjo bolt? You asking about the head or the thread?

It's not connected to the fuel pump. It's connected to the same 12V supply as the fuel pump, so that it is only heated when the fuel pump is active (ie, mostly when the engine is running). In case that wasn't clear, it is heated. Electrically. When it is cold, it is open and flows air. When it is warmed up, it closes, and does not flow air. Hence, it is a cold engine idle up.

Unless you know for sure that it is coming from the hose/connector parts, it could also be from the PS idle up valve. You could pull that off, clean things up, add some thread sealant and try it again. Or buy a suitable plug to dead-end that outlet.

Those are terrible descriptions of what is going on because you start reading the sentence and halfway through it seems to flip the meaning. What you need is photos of the wheels in the sizes you're talking about with the disc options being talked about, so you can see if you think the fronts would look stupid. I would think that if you had more curved spokes on the front so that they tuck back inside wheel more and leave more expose lip (compared to the rear), that it would look stupid . But you really should see first. Is it not a thing to use the same disc on the rear so that it looks the same/better as the front?

So, have you called Spicers?

You shitting me? They have a location in Brisbane. Who cares? Cut it off and make a new end. That's why I said Spicers in the first case. When you want to fit an RB25DET gearbox in an R32, for example, you need to cut and shut the front half of the tailshaft using the end from the RB25 geabox that has the matching spline. Guess who does that? Spicers. You want a brand new tailshaft? Made from steel? Aluminium? Maybe even CF? Then you go to someone like GJ and they will build it from scratch. Putting a brand new universal onto the end of a tailshaft is not difficult. You just need to go to a proper shop that can weld and balance such things. Not Majid's mechanical and kebab shop on the corner. The other places I listed in Brisbane sound like it should be in their capability list also.

It seems like the later cars will swallow something at least an inch bigger than what will comfortably fit under an R32 guard. It makes sense. The R32 standard wheel width is 6.5", and I think the R34 is 7.5" (and it is isn't, it's 7). They put on a wider wheel to ensure that there wasn't a gaping gap making the car look silly.