GTSBoy

If you put the wheel back on in the incorrect position (ie, one spline off) then do a wheel alignment, you can make it drive straight with the wheel straight, but because the wheel alignment will have compensated for the wheel being rotated when the rack is centred, there will be more turns of travel to one side or the other (meaning you'll be able to turn tighter on one side than the other). This is an example of what happens if you do the wrong thing, then do another wrong thing on top to mask it. If you put the wheel on crooked, but don't cover it up with an alignment, then you will drive straight with the wheel rotated one way or the other. It will feel wrong, but it will work fine and can be easily fixed by putting the wheel back on. If you do any of this with a buggered wheel alignment, then go get the alignment fixed, then it's anybody's guess as to where you are. To fix this stuff you need to unhook the tie rods from the steering arms, rotate the wheel all the way to the left, then all the way to the right, counting the exact number of turns (right down to the correct fraction of a turn) and then turn the wheel back to the centre by going exactly half that number of turns. The rack is now centred. If the wheel is not straight, then you have to fix the wheel. If you can't get it straight with the rack centred (ie, moving only one spline either way still has the steering wheel crooked one way or the other) then you need to pick the splice that causes the least error and call that position "centre" on the rack. The rack will be slightly off centre, but you have to live with that. Then you just hook the tie rods back and and do a wheel alignment with the wheel centred and it should all come out good. Worst case, you get the wheel aligner to do all this because this is the sort of mess that they have to fix up all the time.

A good street alignment will generally run a slightly different toe angle left to right, or more often it is done with caster, to make the car want to climb up the camber of a typical 2 lane road. For RHD cars (driving on the LHS of the road), it should want to pull a little to the right. This can often suck when you're on the wrong side of the camber, like in the right lane of a divided carriageway where the right lane is cambered the other way. They're not all this way, often split roads just have the right lane higher than the left to make water drain off to the outside. It can also cause accidents when numpties overtake in the country, because they drift off the right side and take out innocent trees.

Any decent engine builder with a good rep in Brissy should have an ultrasonic bore tester and the ability to inspect for cracks. You possibly wouldn't want to spend the money up front, but if the results come back primo then you could look to ask a decent sum for the motor. From the buyer's perspective (not me, some other buyer!) I wouldn't feel too good about dropping a G on an unknown untested block with the possibility that it is scrap.

Hmm. The block could be worth more than that, or it could be worth nothing. Depends on whether it has any cracks or not. $1k is a big gamble for a buyer. It might be worth your while to get it tested, or enter into an agreement with a buyer to get it tested before they agree to possibly pay more for it than you're asking now.

Yeah, it might be. But it is.... a massive deviation from the correct position, if it is the case. Surprising that there hasn't been tappity tap tap noises from inside. I didn't think you could do this with the VCT actuator, which is why I pointed to the exhaust cam. And we wouldn't call it a cam phasor in this application. The VCT is really only on-off and moves between two positions. A phasor is meant to control to a vernier position anywhere between max and min.

Drag it back off and put it back straight. It'll only take you 2 minutes and the risk of a broken nose.

Yeah, like a tooth out, or something similar. This is why I said that "It's a lot to suggest that it survived the engine being taken apart and reassembled" because for such a problem to have existed before, and persisted after reassembly, it means a real sneaky and unexpected problem or substantial incompetence. But when you get right down to it.....a really flat top end reeks of insufficient valve overlap - when all your other diagnoses suggest nothing wrong with the rest of the engine. Well, either that or a boost rag!

If you fit the tweeter cups in too tight to the top of the door trim you can end up being annoyed by the impossibility of dusting/wiping under the cup. And if you go too close to the the A pillar you can cause a lot of annoyance to yourself when you close the doors and tweak the screws that hold the tweeter to the triangle.

Since when is chrome-moly not billet anyway?

It's a lot to suggest that it survived the engine being taken apart and reassembled, but it looks like the exhaust cam is in the wrong spot.

Very helpful, especially on the small capacity (2.6).

Yeah, I wouldn't mess with such a museum specimen as that, and I am famous for saying "just mod it and drive it" to almost everything else. I mean, I daily my R32. Literally. To and from work every day, >10k km per year. I otherwise agree with what Duncan said. The HKS turbos aren't worth it. Assuming the engine has done no work, then it should take making 500ish wheel HP. But remember that there is actually no such thing as a "safe" power level, as anything can break at any time, especially when pushing it to way more than double the stock power. Every single one of us here who has run an engine like that has broken something in an expensive fashion at some point. Can you even use that much power in HK? Won't the CCP be putting mind control helmets on anyone trying to enjoy themselves in the brave new world?

I would suspect that someone involved in the game of importing/complying or unf**kulating these things might have an idea. Perhaps enquire with Iron Chef, Cars From Japan, if they know how (or if possible/impossible) or if they know someone who can do it. It might be a case of having the correct jailbreaking box or a nice workaround toolset (ie rub your stomach while patting your head and humming the Finnish national anthem backwards).

Except don't do this because all the Chinese Android HUs are shit.

It is my understanding that R35 coils will want up to about 3ms dwell time at 14V. Can get away with a bit less if they are not being asked to work very hard**. **which would defo be the case on an NA 25. I am not sure what the NA 25Neo dwell time is. Nistune would suggest that it is about 3ms for almost all stock Nissan coilpacks/ECUs. This would suggest that you'll probably be overdoing the dwell time on an R35 coil, but it should survive.

What is the duty on the nut? Bugger all.

The stink of crankcase vapours escaping from the (stupidly) vented catch can, entering the car's interior and making you feel sick. Exactly the same as Eau de Cologne, eau de urinal, eau de diff oil.

Yah, it's real hard to be anywhere near accurate. Even a light duty build with some reused parts is approaching $10k these days though.

Surely there will only be a small hole in the dash after you remove the antenna part and you can just put a small piece of grey contact or a sticker or something over it. The other spot is begging for a boost controller.

The best way is..... to just keep the system exactly as stock, but with the catch can inserted between the rocker and the turbo inlet. PCV working, no venting on the catch.

Build up on valves is possibly zinc or calcium or some other metal from oil being burnt.

Detonation is a killer.

Maybe. Make your decision as you go, perhaps.

Hmm. Just the top ones I think. I think you need to drill the tail end of teh crack (if you can find it properly) to stop it propagating, and that might be difficult to do if you also try to put another cross bolt into the lower end of the long crack. The worst part of the problem is that on the inside it looks like the crack has run all the way down and around. Meaning that it already wants to jump off. Good luck with the drilling. Some sort of jig/fixture is definitely going to be needed to make sure that everything stays trued up while you do it. I'd also hate to do it by hand/eye.

And, as a bonus, you'll get better performance. Win win.