Duncan

bugger I had my money on gnomes for sure

the o/s guys would have to be raving mad to turn up without having done some track specific testing and practice. I don't reckon it cost them $10 to get the cars/crew/gear/driver here.

I don't think they are that sensitive. the only one we ever killed took 6 rolls to break it. other ones have been through some pretty major crashes and come out working. I think you may well be fine with a 50/50 split on dirt if you want it- pretty much anyone who has played with this seriously in a big power car on tarmac has gone quicker and quicker with more fwd until stuff starts breaking.

the lines into the oil cooler point upwards do they? best idea would be to mount it so the lines hang down like I did but its a bit late now. if the lines exit upwards you only have 2 options to empty the cooler: 1/ undo the lines and turn the car up side down until the oil stops coming out of the cooler 2/ take the oil cooler off the car and just turn it upside down. 2 is more convenient normally

yeah master cylinder leak for sure. with the engine off, put your foot on the brake hard. once the normal pedal movement is taken up the pedal should stay firm....does it slowly drop to the floor instead?

for what it's worth....we had the same chat in motorsport recently. I would never patch a semi slick....but there were a couple of people who had, and had no problems. Still doesn't change my mind! I don't need a tyre letting go at 200

nah the tighter the track the more likely you are to get away with a bit of sliding. You can't afford to compromise mid corner speed or corner exit on a quick turn (eg turn1 at Eastern Creek), but you can do whatever the hell you like in a slow corner like turn [email protected] long as you are pointing the right way at the end of the corner. Speaking of wakefield.....sliding the rear of the car through the top of the track (4-5-6) is a lovely way to get through there quickly. and equally in a slow FWD car with lots of understeer, turn in very early and slide across the apex to maintain corner speed as best you can. basically...its just not a simple yes or no! sliding a little can be faster but not in a long race.

Hi Jesse, the CAMS website has the CAMS manual on it. The seat and belt requirements are in one of the "general requirements for racing" sections

gret to see so many on here running in the series. huge congrats to Stu Inwood - he set (and kept forever) the SVD record on a day that the track was in poor condition....pretty much everyone else was 1-2 sec off previous times

yes, badly (unevenly) worn tyres can cause the car to pull to one side. easy enought to check....swap the tyres side to side

yeah good result stu. it is pretty well stripped including most of the wiring too right?

have you been running the larger Z145A filter on it (ie it fits?) if so I would stick with that for sure. Z145A and Z224 have the same thread but the 145A is much larger and therefore a better filter.

yeah I like the look of the intake runner length, just put nice long runners on my rb30/25 and the torque from idle is excellent. How did you decide on that exact length?

straight back to the workshop! in fact depending on how bad it sounds you might want to talk to them first and ask if they want to pay for a tow. mostlikely just a bolt not tight under the cover but you don't want to take a chance considering it could wreck the whole motor.

you must be a very patient person.

got a pic?

yeah I love it. far better than nothing at all, and it makes china stuff look expensive

nope, no scruitineer should have an issue with the standard setup - it is totally sealed from the boot by a metal cover.

yeah...also if it is only a single race meet then slicks aren't such a big gamble. with stuff like the state champs though you need to score well every round, so you just can't risk having to sit out a whole round from a points persepective

well...will your fuel system be in the boot or under the floor? If its the latter you have no issue because the floor is the firewall. If you are putting it in the boot the best option is to remove the whole parcel shelf and replace with flat ally sheet....but since you mention returning to road use the best thing would be to put the fuel system in a perpex or ally box inside the boot. BTW I saw a brilliant surge tank setup at hills motorsport the other day (and cheap). A simple ally surge tank with the lift and main pumps inside. simple to install and easy to seal from tha cabin. In the nugget we mounted the fuel system in the driver's quarter panel and sealed in off from the boot - the area where the attessa resoviour sits in a standard gtr

about 20% firmer than semi slick setup, and the same for the swaybar on a middle setting. then 10% harder or softer on the sway bar adjustment should get you in the ballpark. modern semi slicks have very similar grip to full slicks

yeah talk to John at F-sport. Tell him I sent you and he will add 10% to the price lol. At 1300 a set they are half the price of dunlops in the same size, so if 1/2 sec doesn't matter for what you are doing they are a bargain. At Oran Park I had kumho slicks on the front and falken slicks on the rear (same size). They were f**king excellent. For example I was taking Suttons in 4th which i have never even considered on semis. Literally 10-20% faster in a corner so 1-2sec for a whole lap. When slicks are an option they can be cheaper too because they might last longer (up front cost may be say 20% higher but if they keep their performance 50% longer....). But you would still need either semis for bad weather or be willing to park it...makes for a difficult decision because everyone I know who has wet tyres never uses the things which makes slicks an expensive option. slicks worked well for me because I normally have to use semis, so I had a few I could drag along in case it rained (which it didn't in this case, despite the forecast)

for what it's worth, if you are even half serious you are wasting your time with anything but the best tyres. when you are on the track are you competing (eg supersprint)? or running a lap timer? top line semi slicks like re55s or dz03 will give you at least 1 second a lap over falken rsr/kumho ku36. second tier semis like kumho v70 or toyo 888 or yoko a048 will be at least 1/2 sec faster. If cost is an issue (it always is lol) the v70 kumhos are a good choice at about 1300 va set in 245/40/17. even better if you want to save money - run the smallest diameter wheel you can fit over the brakes. 17s are about 30% cheaper than 18s and 16s are cheaper again. the stiffer sidewall of semi slick tyres minimises or eliminates any disadvantage from the higher sidewall.

or just get them fitted to the rims. the webs won't make much difference. in fact I always leave the redbacks in there to see if the tyre fitters are paying attention

have you done a compression test? I think you've got a busted ring land.