Duncan

Well, potentially access is an issue. If you wanted to remove the rear subframe (big job), you would not be able to have it on the quickjack, you would need to use stands. Not being able to roll under it from the side is often an issue, just means you need to crawl in the long way (what is the point of a jacking solution that is meant to be convenient but is actually inconvenient?) Re the blocks, those would be no good for a platform jack like you posted because the bottom is not flat. I have 4x rubber blocks approx 150mm cubed, like this https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/114377766957?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=dKrnEHllRgO&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=dJvnaZ11TB-&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY I can't see any use for rubber pads on a jack stand as you generally would put them under a steel subframe or suspension point, not the sills (if you use sills the car will be lower making it hard to work under, although they would be out of the way for pretty much every task)

I guess it's a V36 from his profile, have a look over this way Alan: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/forum/170-vq-series-v35-v36-infiniti/ And you should post up some pics of your car

I've heard that sentiment around but highly doubt that is the issue for Wakie. Surrounding land is RU2 which requires minimum lot size 100a to build on. Probably some of the local land is larger than that so could be split up and sold to escaping sydney siders, but nothing like where Oran Park was, Amaroo, Calder, Sandown etc I think the Liberals just don't see votes in fixing the issue. AFAIK Labor have not come out either way but will probably have to decide before March.

speaking of which, where were you and the bogan mobile?

looks good....but man that first engine bay scratch is going to hurt. maybe just do it deliberately to get it over and done with

hahaha there was plenty of that going on, good to meet you

https://www.goulburnpost.com.au/story/7960267/everyone-supports-wakefield-park-but-whats-next-owners-ask/ It's pretty clear from the local member's comments that the state government don't intend to assist; they say the track and the council should have worked it out rather than going to the L&E court. Of course, that leaves the track with the option of submitting a new DA to council which has to be materially different than the previous one to operate a race track with additional pit buildings, which state laws will require the council to reject again. With a state election coming up, it is possible one party or the other will make a commitment to resolving the issue, as leaving it between the track and council who have to comply with state laws won't get a different result

Well, if you are going to pay people to troll, you will get trolls. Hell, plenty of people are willing to provide that service for free. He earned his 12c out of me (although I never get the advertising, "OMG!!! I got $53,400", does anyone really click that stuff?) Full props for pushing it around like a tonka toy during the process. sorry for any spoiler.

you said blow tehehehehe

The blocks I use are generic (I got them with the hoist from memory) and while I don't think they are damaging the jacking points it is hard to tell because it is a race car and has a fair bit of underfloor damage from over the years. If you are worried all you need to do is cut a slit in the block so that it rests on the chassis with the sill fold in the slit...5mm would be plenty

They work, as well as they work. I've got quickjacks because I don't have a strong slab or enough height for a proper hoist. For some reason I don't have many good side on pics but this is the idea. It lifts it higher than regular jack stands but still not very convenient. According to specs in mine the frame is 462mm, plus whatever you add as support blocks (I use rubber blocks about 100mm high at each corner, so about half a metre of clearance) There are similar style scissor lifts which do lift higher, to say 1 metre which might be the case for what you've shown above, but it is still nothing like a proper walk under hoist In terms of support, you just use rubber blocks between the top of the jacking platform and the factory sill jacking points. The style I have, you park the car and then slide the jacks under so clearance is no issue. If you get a style you need to drive onto, consider clearance from the front bar to the lifting platform, depending on how low your car is you might only have 100mm to play with Keep in mind, you do get clear access under the car eg to gearbox, exhaust etc, but you can't access anything around the sills (eg rear subframe mount), and you can't get under the car from the side, you need to go from either the front or rear of the car

noting....I'm no photographer

absolutely, and not just you 😛

Thanks mate. Some of the doco is conflicting (or out of date), I understood the tuning cable was not an option for the G4X plugins and you had to use the USB adapter (or CAN to OBD2 to OBD2 bluetooth to head unit), good to know the cable is an option. Do you run a USB splitter of some sort so you can still plug in easily?

Thanks to SAU for putting the event on, and it was great to catch up with some old faces for the first time in ages (and yes, there was a fair bit of shady glancing "is that....." :))

I missed the last bit, have you chosen between the pinball machine and the minister of finance yet? Anyway, in your old thread you said "Also fitted and wired up a new oil pressure/temp sensor and sorted fuel pressure with the old oil pressure sensor now reading it. Got a cheap Android double din wired up and have the link data showing on real dash app. " Can you expand on that? Are you using CAN2 inside the Link to one of the Seeedstudio adapters to the head unit USB? It's time for me to do something similar for the stagea as neither the Epson EJ1 nor the Nismo dash have stood the test of 3 decades....

Good to hear. Did they have a theory why the scratches occurred? Are you certain the ring gaps are OK (check them before reinstalling pistons!)

Doesn't sound like good news, if you can feel it with a finger nail it almost certainly needs a hone and possibly even a bore out. Sucks, but not worth having an issue. I once had to get a block re-bored when I caught a ring installing it and scratched the bore. Might also be your ring end gaps were too tight

Sounds like the ECU is not getting power. There are a pair of relays next to the ECU, one turns the ECU on, the other is for the ignition. Make sure they have battery power to them and then check 12v at the ECU power inputs (and check earth there too). Mongoose is unlikely cutting ECU inputs so original problem may have been a misdiagnosis

No probs being there before 3, just looking to confirm

Sorry if I've missed the detail, but do we need to be in by 3, or we can start arriving from 3?

I should add, a radiator pressure test kit might be worthwhile if you are having trouble finding the leak. It pressurises the system from the radiator cap and will make a leak location obvious

Yeah not fun...but back to an earlier question, exactly what did you have apart. It is highly unlikely something you didn't touch started leaking straight after you did something. Did you just remove plenum, then throttles as a single unit, then intake manifold as a single unit? Or did you partially disassemble one or more of them?

Welcome to SAU John

What do you do with the car Like Rob I've used gauges, loggers and dashes in the race and street cars, depends what you are looking for. Of course, nothing beats Power FC hand controller for combination of engine display and ability to adjust tune if required