Duncan

Re rb25 vs rb26....there is not a lot of difference and everything is physically interchangeable with small detail differences. Like Josh said you can make sure the block was originally rb26 by looking for an engine number starting with rb26 (noting that brand new blocks are supplied without numbers so it could start as anything). A better check is rb26 block will have 05U cast into it. The capacity of the engine comes from bore (86.5mm) x crank stroke (73.7mm) which is the biggest difference between 25 and 26 so as long as you get an rb26 crank back in the block it will still be 2.6 litre Re the pistons, you need to ask the shop. Per above there could be a difference in the pin height which affects how far the piston pokes into the head/valves at TDC, but with aftermarket there are lots of combinations of pin height and target compression to consider.

TBH, you either need to trust your machine shop, or not. The real work that goes into the engine is the machining and measuring, not so much the parts which seem like a pretty common list. There would be a bunch of gaskets and seals including the head gasket to add to that list, often a high flow oil pump, and a heap of external stuff like timing belt plus it's tensioner and bearings, hoses, accessory belts and often painting/powder coating the engine covers The "short engine" refers to the block and rotating assembly (crank, pistons, rods etc). Here there may be costs for linishing or straightening your crank, particularly if you are getting a rebuild due to a spun bearing, and possibly even tunnel boring depending on the damage. Obviously they've decided you need to go 0.5mm oversize pistons (which is common) and will need them to bore out the cylinders then hone them for the required clearance for those pistons, and they will have to do ring end gaps. The fact they are putting in standard bearings suggests they are OK with the crank, and they may need to deck the block for straightness after checking it. Depending on your goals and the machine shop's knowledge there may be some oil gallery work and/or enlarging the block oil returns The "long engine" is the short engine with the head on. There is nothing in that list for the head so hopefully you are at least having it cleaned and measured, costs there can include closing and honing the cam caps if there is an issue, and often valve springs need replacing due to age or more aggressive cams. Some cams will require them the relieve the head for clearance too. Bottom line, at east 50% of the cost will come from cleaning, measuring, machining and re-measuring. If they do any of that wrong your engine will not last.

By far the most likely is simply tyres. Mid corner understeer (generally) is about total front end grip and Hankook RS4 might be better than average but aren't track tyres. Neither different width track nor different width tyres front to rear would make a noticeable difference. Most cars have different track width from factory anyway. Other than tyres, most likely things you can tune are the amount of roll (spring rates and sway bays) or potentially front camber/caster but in modern cars it just comes down to lots of weight over the front.

which car, your profile and post don't state? I've added a grommet and wiring through for brake pressure sensor next to the ABS which is a similar size to most of those circular connectors in my 32 gtr

I'm really glad to see Nick's car out and about and looking great, where was it?

As per the above, for such a small area a heat gun and gentle use of a scraper will be easier than obtaining and using dry ice.

Does it run to the rear wiper if you follow it? The other option is it could be the drain for the sunroof if you have one

This kind of gets right to the heart of the problem.... my understanding is the R34 diff centre is too large for the R32 sump casing.

It is important you check the ring end gaps before installing. Push each carefully into the bore and check the gap with a feeler gauge. The rings should have the required end gap in the included doco

In my experience, "mechanics" leave stuff loose all the time. At a minimum they should have road tested and noticed all the boost was going missing before giving it back to you.

But, where do you ever come across JIS fasteners? Not in a Nissan thankfully. And those long spanners are nice to use, but they just aren't feasible in most tight locations.

There are clearances listed in the manual for the pins, I've found some tighter and looser in various rebuilds. Either way, lightly tapping them in should be more than enough if you aren't going to check them

Its OK, similar to the Euros which turn on an error light before you get to go fast much, Jeeps will break down before you can go fast enough to hurt yourself.

I run the stuff, have extended breathers and don't have any issues. But I would still double check it is not overfilled, and how did you fill it in the first place?

you should start with the RB25 dyno results thread, 400kw is pretty common these days and choosing the right turbo is the starting point

ahh, so there aren't that many red bogan cruise ships around yeah I got caught out by that flood too, it came unusually quickly and highest we've seen. I was in Sydney on Friday and arrived at the bridge home about 5pm to find it under.....also spent a couple of nights in town waiting for it to settle. New bridge foundations on the left (road would have been about 1m above the flood), current bridge 4m under on the right.. I guess it is one way to have a totally unplanned holiday, good news for clothes and food shops, but kind of bad timing because the motels were all super full because the state champs were on at wakie as well.

I saw a red commodore with one of those dodgy bonnet bulges down in Goulburn today....

Perhaps an intermittent short/break in the wiring loom. When the issue is occurring turn off car and check continuity from coil1 to the ECU. Also, just to confirm my memory, S2 R33 didn't have a separate ignitor on the engine, it is built into each coil, right? I had a nasty but intermittent misfire when my ignitor failed

Surely 9.5 won't fit at the front of a gtst...8 or 8.5 would be max?

@PranK over to you Back in the olden days, an unleaded fuel restrictor had to be fitted into the filler neck to stop you putting leaded fuel in (even though that hasn't been available for about 20 years). Compliers would stick the restrictor in with silicone and it often wasn't fuel safe so they would degrade over time. You can check for all of the fuel sealing issues by parking it in the sun for a few hours, then opening the filler cap. If it doesn't release some pressure you have a leak in the system which could be Fuel cap Filler neck seal/unleaded restrictor Fuel neck to tank Fuel pump lid or seal Carbon cannister system (should seal unless engine is running)

Also, where are you? (no location in your profile) Many Australian imports have badly fitted restrictors in the filler neck that can need resealing over time.

If you have a VIN# we can look it up

No issue with a manual swap done well...and too late to change now but I'd look get pics of the clutch pedal mounting, where the centre console meets the dash, and of course the actual gearbox may have very different klm to the rest of the car

👍 I've got the conversion the Estonian guys on ebay, I guess there are other ways to contact them but all roads probably lead to the same people. I was a bit dubious about sending that much but they were quick and it works perfectly, the only thing I'm not impressed with is the english buttons they supply aren't a great match colourwise to the stock ones I did the install based on the US MY51 Q70 2013 manual, close enough to work out how to pull the console apart without breaking anything and the unit is direct plug in. Some functions are lost like the passenger parking camera and the japanese lady yelling to tell you how to parallel park. Frankly, the frustration for us with the jp menus was since Kel and I share the car, memorising the path to connect audio and then phone every time we change drivers was a pain. I've got a thread on my fuga here:

I've never tried to turn off the status because I find the DTE display helpful, however on the drive today I was able to remove it by pressing the nav's Map button (bottom row, second from right) then a source button on the radio (Aux). I'm sure there are other ways and it depends what you DO want to see