PN-Mad

They are on every vq35 motor. Only vq30/25dd and det motors don't have them.

If you are serious about a car, use a jap odo checking service to dig up the de reg certs. A tank of fuels worth of money to avoid a potential horror is well worth it. Even if you have to do a few of them before finding a good car. Look in the Engine bay, and under the car for signs of more than normal surface rust and corrosion, indications of a cold /snow climate car. If anything slightly smells fishy, RUN away. It more than likely is. People with genuine cars will go out of their way to show you they are genuine.

Hey, look, this guy was right....! (Regarding US GTR) Good day, seemed a lot of mechanical carnage going on. Lots of broken things laying round in the pits. Lots of busy crew members. Brian was providing some great entertainment sliding the R35 round. Disappointed that an emo pushed Scorch off the top step late in the arvo, let's hope he can find a bit more and win it tomorrow.

If you are considering HFC and headers, then don't bother with coupe midpipe. Just get yourself a proper exhaust. As Josh said, that later nismo exhaust should be picked up on YAJ, and it's easily the quietest performance style exhaust. The earlier nismo was louder, and only made for a couple of years. I have a kinetix on my car, and honestly it's pretty loud for an intake. It really drones at some rpm. Sounds and works ok, but the intake it almost as loud as the exhaust!

Coupe mid pipe is a ok upgrade. It does flow more, and the pipe diameter is actually larger, but it's not anything on a properly made cat back. However it knocks not he driveshaft hoop, not the sway bar, at least the one I had on it did....

Then Stick to the plan, swap them over, see what happens. They aren't that expensive to replace, but $160 is a lot of fuel to use to justify it.

Try actually filling up, zero the trip meter, and work out the actual litres per 100kms. I don't really have much trust in the on board consumption. Then report back on how much it used, and what kind of driving was done on that tank.

Didn't he say he crashed it on the track, ergo, no insurance? Listen to the advice man, if you do repair it, it will never drive the same again.

If it's stuck on -5% it sounds like your sensor is borked. However you can check this via swapping them over side to side if you can be bothered. Being stuck on -5 actually means it's taking fuel out all the time, if that's what it is "actually" doing. A new sensor will only run $160-170 from nissan. I bought one new one, cause I toasted the shit out of the plug on one of mine To me, your consumption is pretty normal. Freeway for me, is 10L/100km with air con on, and cruising at 110gps (about 120 indicated). The city consumption is about the same too.

Lol nick! Nah, I'll leave the big dollar motor builds to GTRs. Given I have decided to not mod the body to fit a bigger wheel/tyre combo, I think bulk hp increases are not required. Something round the 350kw mark would be more than sufficient for everything i reckon. Even then I'd need to go to the skyline box, as this little one just won't hack that. Anyway, I just want to track and enjoy it now!

What does the other bank sensor sit on/around? I don't know how your software displays it, mine is set up so that with O2 correction 100% is no changes 99% is removing fuel, 101% is adding fuel. It can change to a maximum 25% of the fuel value. Each bank is individually monitored and adjusted. Only the two upper sensors play an active part. The lower two Are for cat efficiency afaik

No real plans at the moment. What I would like is something that is a response / torque monster. I think that direction for a SR is the right one. Keep a longer diff ratio in it, and look to increase the low range of the motor. We all know the top end of the SR doesn't love high rpm, so my thoughts are to maximise the motor while keeping it under 75-7800rpm. Probably lose the VCT, for reliability. And have a capacity increase for more response and torque. But that's a long way off. As long as the stockie keeps loving it, it's not in the front of my mind

Unfortunately, not much to update. I missed the SAU SMSP trackday due to some health issues. So I'm trying to slot some track time in before the years end. Need to concentrate on getting it to the track. In the mean time, I might re-paint the roof, since I have the spray guns to do it proper-ish now.

Well! almost a couple of weeks later, no fault lights. So problem fixed! I suggest if you have an airbag fault, you get the code scanned, and figure out what the problem is

I need trackday! But every date I check is not do-able... Wah!

I can almost sense Fatz circling above, like a ravenous vulture...

I read up on it too. Frankly, I think it would be a great result if he isn't in a permanently vegetative state. Remember at the moment, as far as we know, he isn't breathing by himself, and his brain is smushed. Heart breaking as it is, I think the family isn't past the point where they will have to decide if they flick the switch or not. At least he has the best medical professionals money can buy, and is fortunate enough for the crash to have happened in a very developed country. Imagine if it had happened in some of the less developed locations? Forza Jules.

22 of the worlds most expensive street sweepers about to trundle round for several laps behind Bernd.

For science!

Gave a bit of love to the old girl today. Changed the clock spring to hopefully fix the airbag fault I've been getting, as in the thread I posted. Secondly, got four new tyres on her. Same tyres I ordered from tyre rack last time- continental extreme contact DW. Can't fault them. Only a bad alignment prematurely killed a pair of them, so hopefully they'll be good for a good while to come. Got the two 1/2 decent ones as backups incase something goes bad.

As many times needed to reach full capacity. Capacity is reached when you think this is a cock spring tutorial, and you find it abnormally amusing. Post results.

Hi Guys, Thought I would write up a tutorial, as I just finished changing the clock spring in my M35. This is the most common cause of the Airbag error light flashing on the dash in modern Nissans. First of all, the disclaimer - you take on any work at your own risk, I'm in no way responsible for damage to you or your car if you attempt this. If you don't know how to do mechanical stuff, this probably isn't for you. We are dealing with an airbag, which contains explosive material and mishandling will set it off and break your face. Right? Backstory: OK, I have a flashing airbag error light. Unfortunately my error code reading system wouldn't read the airbag errors, only BCM and ECU related codes. So off I go to my friendly Nissan Dealer. Plugged into CONSULT, I get a B1049 Drivers Airbag module Open code. My friendly Nissan Tech explains the most common fault from this is the Clock Sping, which is the unit that keeps the airbag electrically connected while you are swinging the wheel back and forth. In fact, by chance he has to do one on a Pathfinder that arvo (it's that common...). Looked up the part in FAST, and ordered it. The cost is around the $180 mark incl GST from the dealership. 2 week wait ex Japan. On to the fitting! The only special tool you will need is a 6 pointed T30 security torx style thingo. This is to undo the airbag in the very first step. The entire process shouldn't take you more than about 1 hour. Took me a little longer taking photos and finding out shit along the way. FIRST STEP- Park the car on a level place, with the steering centred. Turn car off. ****DISCONNECT THE BATTERY**** this is very important cause you don't want the airbag to go off in your face. Drain the system of any residual charge via the horn, interior lights, etc etc. Undo the two security torx bolts that hold in the airbag. The airbag will slide out towards you. Point it away from you. Look at the back of the airbag, using a small flathead screwdriver, gently raise the black tab on the plug, and pull the yellow connector out. Place the airbag somewhere out of the way, with the nissan badge facing upwards, not near any electrical charge. Next unplug the yellow earth, and grey plug. Using a 19mm socket, loosen the steering wheel nut, but don't remove it completely. Pull the steering wheel towards you, this will require force, and a bit of a wiggle (or a puller if you have one...). Place the steering wheel aside. This is what it will look like On the underside, remove the two phillips screws, and the cover will split in half Now the clock spring is held on by two Phillips screws, either side, at the 8 and 4 positions. Remove the large plug from the top left if the unit, and once you have taken the screws out, remove the two plugs on the bottom of the unit, one yellow, one grey. There is a small clip on the top of the unit to hold it in place, depress and remove it. It will then come off into your hands. You will have to change over the stalks onto the new unit. this is done by depressing two clips on either side of the stalk and pulling it out. It has a little plug that will guide you. Put them back onto your new clock spring, making sure the clip into place, and the plugs are fully seated. Notice the new clock spring has a plastic guard over the plug. The clock spring comes pre-centred. Do not remove this until you are ready to place the steering wheel back onto the clock spring. This ensures it works for the range of motion of the wheel, and isn't 360 degrees out of alignment. To put your new assembly back on, plug in the three plugs, and tighten the two Phillips screws. Put the yellow airbag plug through the hole in the steering wheel, and plug the yellow earth, and grey steering wheel control plug back in. Make sure you put the steering wheel back on straight- there are guide markings. Tighten the 19mm nut firmly. Tuck the wires back into their holders. Carefully replace the airbag plug, and depress the black clip to secure the plug. Slide the airbag unit back onto the wheel, and secure it via the two torx fittings. Connect your battery, and go and turn your ignition on, but make sure you are not sitting in the drivers seat ( do it from outside the car, incase you have farked up...). Nothing explodes...? Good. Check all your stalk functions and horm works ok. Now, to clear the flashing light, follow the steps found in other posts, which is basically turn ign on, as soon as you see the airbag light go off, turn ign off, wait 5 secs turn ign on again, repeat this 4 or 5 times. Start the car and the airbag light should not be flashing. Have a beer.

Guess it's worked ok for the MCA car in the past. We'll just have to wait and see!

Realistically, it's had zero tests/shake downs if the pics and stuff we've seen are to be believed. I think it's more likely going to spend the weekend broken in the pits.

Left foot- good to tap the pads up to the rotor while the right foot is flat to the floor at 220km/h.