hardsteppa

Yeah but you should get it retuned

trash or treasure, a bargain or an insult to your wallet? you decide. All parts for R33 gtst. Subframe collars - have 2 sets, one aluminium solid type, the other Superpro urethane (seem to be missing 1 ring, as soon as I find the other one in my garage, will sell as a full set). Marks etc as pictured, both still in good order and very serviceable (aluminium ones hardly used, superpro ones have about 3 -4 years on them) $25 a set. Superpro steering rack bushes, about the same amount of use 3-4 years, still in very good order. $20. Genuine Nissan tailshaft centre bearing. This is effectively brand new, but - fitted this bearing, only to find an issue with the tailshaft itself, so had to swap tailshafts. As this was brand new and they cost $160+ I pulled it off and in trying to do so without damaging the rubber casing, one centre flange got bent up as pictured. If you straighten this out so it doesn't rub, it will be as good as new, but, price reflects this damage. $50 neg. Which leads me to - 1x tailshaft flange and front section, both still in good working order, issue was with rear section. These might be handy if making a custom tailshaft...? $20 neg anyway. 1x R33 actuator, $10. pickup on Brisbane northside or can post anywhere in Oz (tailshaft excepted).

you could have, or could have blown a bearing or seal...did you? Is it making the right boost at a stable level, is it making any noise, is it blowing any smoke? If the answer is to be no to those questions 3, then, i'm sure it's fine. That's not a lot of boost anyway; 25+, now that would be a cause 4 concern.

Street car? Remsa pads, fkn awesome and cheap as broooo.

wait, you had crap brakes that you yourself say won't work in an emergency situation and you've driven it around this way for a month? give a fk for the safety of other road users much??? I really hope I've misunderstood what you posted. And I would suggest, look elsewhere rather than bleeding the brake system again. Stuck rear calipers as Ben said, or check booster is working properly.

forklift gas-engine. or, bike pedals and a long chain. not sure but I thought I saw a thread about this once before that had some information on it.

Gk tech do, or did, a 10mm slipon hubcentric..i know, i have some lol. Have widened guards a little on rear but have a cpl different sizes of hubc spacers to get the 'right' fit, works well

I like very firm at 41-42 psi but it is too much in terms of rapid tyre wear in middle.

What brakes are a 343mm size? That would be a decent upgrade.

Yeah re003s work out to that price on the buy3, get 1 free deal from anywhere that stocks bridgestone i believe on current promotion.i got them from Jax who in my 2 experiences so far are shit. First one threw in free wheel alignment which was appalling, much worse than went in, and this latest, wheel balancing is bad vibes at 100k, frkn dangerous at 140k. Am going to go to trusted tyre shop and pay to get rebalanced.

Look at gk tech soacers. Much cheaper, easily reverted and top quality.

Re003 in a 235/45/17 averages out to about 130 a tyre with current offer.

Nothing will ever beat a triple carby setup.

Bigger sidewall, more flex, less direct feeling. May or may not be an issue at that size.

Re003s are now 169 ea for 3, get one free. Cheap tyre, made in thailand.

ok after a drive in the mountains today I'm quite happy with the RE003's, with the tyre pressure now at 42psi (235/45/71 size). Didn't seem to overheat, gripped well and fairly progressive with the loss of traction. Not bad for cheap tyres.

loooool.....come on OP, how can you expect to get serious help now, when you're asking the same shit 2 years later? It's not even a big decision, and I can't believe you've read that much conflicting information to make it that much a tougher choice. I'll help though - don't add a variable that doesn't need to be there. I had a tuner that thought it would be a good idea to wind up the base pressure so much that as soon as the rate rose under boost it would overload the fuel pump and pressure would drop, not raise, via the relief valve - even though my 550cc injectors were large enough that only a small increase in base pressure that was needed. And so I have to try and tell this experienced (and yes, he was a reputable, knowledgable and experienced tuner in all other aspects) why this doesn't seem to be a good idea. And yes after I got over the novelty of having a shiny adjustable FPR, I went to a larger 800cc injector and back to stock FPR....better in every aspect.

Ideally use the oem ones from Nissan as you will note the thicker section of the bolt that has no thread, that joins the 2 flanges....but really any high-tensile M10 bolt of the right length with a 14mmm head will do. Bolt shop, or Bunnings will have them.

What the fk. Are you saying you want to know how to get it running right, while timing marks are all over the place and unable to line up where they need to. Download workshop manual or follow one of guides on here; pull off timing belt and set it up as instructed.

Yes invo's were very quiet and smooth; they are marketed as a partly luxury tyre. Bit too much so for me even i don't mind a bit of noise/roughness, as long as it grips!

Actually now i remember, i sacrificed a 14mm spanner for this job. Cut the open-end off leaving just the ring end and shaft, then slide a length of right-sized pipe over shaft to give you a breaker-bar spanner. I call it SST#438

so I got the RE003's....on for a week and not wowed by them, they're ok but seems sidewall is too soft, leaving them lacking in directional stability on the front when cornering hard. Will put a few more psi in them and see how that goes. Had also used Nitto Invo's - bloody excellent, soooo much grip in the wet, I would have to ride the brakes HARD to get them to lock. Great in the dry too and very stable in cornering; got about 9000k's to them with about 25% tread left, at which point they had noticeably lost grip but still quite predictable, even though slidey. Also used Michelin Pilot sport 3's, found them similar to the Invo's but just not quite as good IMO.

The difference in boosting to 10psi on stock actuator alone vs boosting on ebc is quite big though. Ebc is worthwhile.

The mallet did it for me; maybe drop the tailshaft as well and give it a go once its off the car and you can get good angles?

Canola is very good, and multi purpose.