BlackBox

Hi All, I am trying to finish off my build on my R34 RB25DET NEO and want to make sure what i have going on with my coolant lines wont cause any stagnant flow or air pockets. I am running a plazmaman Intake manifold and throttle body, and also a Haltec IACV so i dont have any coolant lines running to those. I have the turbo coolant returning to the back of the intake runners (Orange cable tie) And i was going to cut the nipples of the top of the runners and tap and plug those (Blue/Yellow, Yellow/Yellow) And also Plug next to the thermostat housing. Does this sound alright or am i going to have stagnant flow and airpockets in the intake runners? The other option is for a swirl pot, but in the strive for simplicity and aesthetics i would rather not install one unless needed. Cheers,

Hey all, I have an RB25Det NEO With a Plazmaman Intake manifold and Haltec Platinum Pro. I am finishing off my build and for the sake of aesthetics and simplification i would like to remove the factory IAC and install an all electric type to be controlled by the haltec. I have seen haltec offer different types of Idle Air control valves - 2 port, 4 port , single and 2 screw motor, stepper motor etc... But not sure which would be appropriate for what i am after. IACV Kit IAC Valve 1 IAC Valve 2 Has anybody used them in the past or can offer any guidance? Cheers,

I have also have a grex thermostatic cooler plate. I have followed this diagram by blowing in it but it seems that it still allows all flow to go through the cooler, not just a small amount

Sorry mate not sure I understand, are you saying it looks like my block is 4cm short? :s Could you link me to the thread?

I understand what your saying about the front cap having no load on it, but its off already and the risk is too great.. I didn't really preserve the box for inspection when I unpacked the head, but I am sure it has been dropped. I got the head back 4 weeks ago but it has been sitting boxed up on the shelf waiting to be installed, If that Is enough time for the cracks to turn black. There was no insurance on the freight and I expect I will have to cop the full cost of it myself

Did you ream or linebore the head, or meaure it when you put the other cap on? It was definitely not damaged before, it would have been picked up by myself or definitely by the machine shop, and there was another mark on the front of the head where it looks to have been dropped. Regardless the head is back off and packaged up to be sent away on Monday..

Because many businesses don't answer their phone at 7pm or over the weekend... I got ahold of him anyway and the plan is to pull the head back off, send it to him and he can fit another cap and ream/bore it

Thanks mate, I'm pretty pissed off at this point just seems to be one thing after another. I will have to wait until Monday to get a response from the machining shop but hoping they had some sort of insurance on the freight.. if a cam cap cannot be sourced is having them line bored a practise that has been done before and would it be a very cost effective repair?

Hey all, Just got the head for my rb25det neo back from being ported and reconditioned.. I have noticed the front intake cap appears to have been damaged in transit. It is not perfectly round where the seal sits, there is also 2 small cracks, 1 where the seal sits and another on the top surface. I understand these caps cannot be replaced without getting the head linebored. Would this cap be OK to reused considering there is no damage to the surface that sits on the cam? I have emailed the company that reco and ported my head but won't get a response till next week.. If I was to try and recoupe my losses through the transport company it will likely take a long time and I may still be down $$$ to get a new head or get this repaired

Wondering if/where people managed to find the countersunk m7 bolts for the cam trigger? Also if it matters what position the cam trigger is bolted on? Or if that is changed on the computer

I personally use bp98 in all my cars with shell being second choice and only use Caltex if I have to but I agree it is definitely subjective to the particular servos and even tank to tank. .. I have always wanted to get a sample from each servo and send it away for analysis.. although I am out in the sticks so I think they would all be pretty saddening

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Nuh sorry mate that was just head work - pulled it off myself.

That's ridiculous.. Darren Lewis was $1.5k for full reco and basic port and oil restrictors

Yep darren Lewis did say to spray it with hylomar as well

In the process of re-installing the head on my neo after a leak at the valves, Had the head reco'd, ported and skimmed by Darren Lewis and im using a MLS gasket based on his advise. To prep the block i scrapped the old gasket material off with a razor, cleaned it with scouring pad and used 600 grit sandpaper on a flat black to sand on a 45 degree angle one way then the other so there was a cross hatch on the block. This was the way Darren Lewis recommended but having never done a head gasket let alone MLS i still have everything crossed that it wont leak.

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I've noticed my r34 gtt has a sticker in the engine bay that says something along the lines of '2.0Lt' Is it possible it was once home to an rb20 ?

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Because the factory shroud and fan were a bit damaged and I have felt the effects of a viscous fan locked up so believe there might be a slight gain, plus it looks heaps neater

Uh yes of course this would be a given I'm not concerned with this, I have faith in modern electric motors, don't they become useless after ~60km/h road speed anyway? My only concern is if they will be able to pull enough air when stationary. Plus it's strictly weekend warrior so won't be sitting still for too long[emoji14]

Fwiw I also went from a gt3076 to HTA 3076 on my 34 gtt, it isn't done yet but as with you i also went with the Poncams and water/meth (no e85) I was fully prepared to go the twin scroll route but after much reading it seemed the concensus was 'it's not worth it for a turbo this size that's already responsive' so I got a top Mount 6 boost manifold and single scroll rear, .82 I think?

I am installing thermo fans to my r34 gtt even tho I have read lots of accounts of failure I want to try it correctly for myself.. I am fitting 52?mm radiator with shroud and twin thermo fans. It will be controlled by haltec platinum pro. I am also fitting a thermostatic oil cooler. Can you clarify what you mean by 'some type of hysteresis'