Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 29/03/2016 at 9:12 PM, XKLABA said:

Lets try this again :(

Rebuilt with 0.5mm bigger Wiseco pistons

New UE 260 x 10.8mm cams

OS88 with alloy shaft

Sold dyno wheels so was dynoed on 275-35-19s instead of 255-40-18s so revs are lower then indicated

Also Scott changed from Dyno Dynamics to Mainline which apparently reads lower :/

post-36620-0-97290200-1459246356_thumb.jpeg

Changed coils to Audi R8 NGKs

dailed cams back to 0 deg IN and 0 or 2 deg EX to try stop lifting head knowing we where going for 30psi

Tested rear turbo feed and got more the 10psi vacuum (test gauge only goes to 10psi) @19psi boost, should be good gains left there 

still on 275/35/19s 

engine bay

 

IMG_3363.JPG

IMG_3130.JPG

On 25/11/2017 at 12:38 PM, XKLABA said:

Tested rear turbo feed and got more the 10psi vacuum (test gauge only goes to 10psi) @19psi boost, should be good gains left there 

 

Solid power and delivery for low mount twins near 500kw!

Just for clarification, when you say "tested rear turbo feed and >10psi vacuum" - can you explain what you meant there?   I've been REALLY keen to know about if or how much vacuum a high-pressed low mount twin setup is drawing at the intake as I have long suspect that the piping will force a restriction as required airspeed goes up and it will initially push the pressure ratio up quite high, meaning a lot of setups will go off the comp map before they necessarily actually reach their flow potential at atmospheric vs inlet manifold pressure... so choke earlier than they would.  This would confirm that theory like a mofo.

The next thing however, if that is what is happening - when you say 10+psi "vacuum", you mean atmospheric pressure (~14.7psi) - 10psi, or ~4psi absolute pressure?   That is F-ALL.   Like crazy low.   The area of the map your compressor would be working in would be similar to if you were running near 90psi with no "vacuum" at the inlet :O

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

This result was more what I was hoping for . Had posted it on another thread but this is the update.

I have continually lost a little from the top end but still more than needed on the street, so The End, again :) 

To finish it off I added

ATS Tripple carbon clutch, the Coppermix Twin had to go, it was a great clutch.

Emtron KV8 ECU

EFR8374   1.05

Koolig Crank Trigger

5a2d0664de25b_E85lastScott.thumb.jpg.48474c7de20d9af95762285541bdb304.jpg

  • Like 3
  • 3 months later...

RB 25/30

CP 8.5:1 pistons

MRP rods, arp2000 bolts

ARP main studs

Oil pump drive adapter

RB25DET oil pump

Lightly ported r33 s2 head

Tomei 256x 8.5 poncams

Genuine greddy intake manifold

6x2200 injectors with flex fuel sensor

VH45 throttle body

150mm intercooler

Sinco twin scroll to manifold

66mm precision waste gate

Borg Warner s300sx 83/75 twin scroll .91 housing

4inch exhaust from turbo to back

Vipec i88 ECU with lithium choon

On a rough time with vct on the entire run made 378rwkws on hub dyno

 

 

 

video my mate made.

 

Still more boost and ethanol to come. Just chasing an oil pressure issue.

20180303_164605.jpg

Edited by Looney_Head
  • Like 2
  • 4 weeks later...

RB25 head, fixed cams Tighe grind 805C 8.9mm lift, 265 degree. Hydraulic lash adjust.

8.4:1 static CR. Freddy intake manifold, VH45 TB. 

6 boost exhaust manifold, 50mm Pro Gate. 3.5 inch exhaust from turbo back. 2 inch plumb back off gate.

Precision 6266CEA, single scroll 0.84 T3 flange.

Fuel - petrol.

Boost - 24psi consistent from 4200-720020180424_234850.thumb.jpg.81b3028be78b5fb623541d7af29ab32b.jpg

Issues - experienced timing scatter due to OEM CAS.

  • 3 months later...

My latest output on my 26/30 rips built engine on e85 with oem r8 coils made an extra 64hp on less boost had a missfire first went 658 with 29 with a miss and then when we replaced plugs and gapped them @.5.5 and set boost @27 psi it went the same power didnt do another power run on 29 psi little scared with the stock rods haha although they pushing these stock rods well over 500kw in nz.20180817_203954.jpg

My latest output on my 26/30 rips built engine on e85 with oem r8 coils made an extra 64hp on less boost had a missfire first went 658 with 29 with a miss and then when we replaced plugs and gapped them @.5.5 and set boost @27 psi it went the same power didnt do another power run on 29 psi little scared with the stock rods haha although they pushing these stock rods well over 500kw in nz.20180817_203954.thumb.jpg.32893ce1cd74399066b0597d13c16ee1.jpg
Better pic20180825_072034.jpg

Always wondered why my CR was down to 8.1:1 after my stroker build.

Thinking of going to 9.5:1 and might clean the head up, maybe even a P&P .

Anyone have results for increasing the CR from factory , up to 9.5 , maybe back to back Dyno runs on the same Dyno ?

10 minutes ago, Nismo 3.2ish said:

Always wondered why my CR was down to 8.1:1 after my stroker build.

Thinking of going to 9.5:1 and might clean the head up, maybe even a P&P .

Anyone have results for increasing the CR from factory , up to 9.5 , maybe back to back Dyno runs on the same Dyno ?

8.1... did you get some VL workshop to build the engine, either that or a seat painter that builds engines

  • 3 months later...

Stock rb25 s0 head.

Stock unknown kilometer rb30e bottom end with acl bearings, nitto head drain, rb25 oil pump and 1.1mm oil restrictors. 

1.3mm metal head gasket

6boost t3 exhaust manifold

Turbosmart hypergate 45mm

Ebay inlet plenum

660cc seimens injectors 

Haltech plugin

Hypergear atr45ss .82

3inch exhaust 

$50 intercooler 

Had a boost creep issue due to the wastegate being to small so mid range is lacking alot.

374kw was best run for the day, left it at 370kw on 24psi on bp98. 

 

20180327_225537.jpg

20180507_211006.jpg

Edited by lexxi32
  • Like 2
  • 1 month later...

Upgraded the main and head studs, switched from Splitfires to an R35 coil kit to solve the misfiring above 25psi, and added a few other things. Upped the boost to 29psi and made a few extra kilowatts and more torque.

Boost control and area under the curve is a work in progress, response was better before the upgrades so no doubt it can be improved upon again. Feels good on the street and makes peak boost in the 4+k RPM range. Screenshot_20190210-173517_Gallery.thumb.jpeg.c956888a52901786600bd0804597bcee.jpeg20190210_151554.thumb.jpeg.c5f046ecff3a67df9cb089a423fd5aaa.jpeg

 

 

  • Like 5

Video of one of the dyno runs:

It made 525kW at 27-26psi. We then turned the boost up to 29psi and on the next run just as it passed through 545kW the compressor outlet pipe clamp let go at about the 6000+rpm mark. Probably would have gone close to 555ishrwkw on that run. We quickly replaced the busted clamp and fired off two more runs at 29psi, both in the 549.Xrwkw range. I still think my GTX3584RS 1.01 combo is capable of 560-570rwkw on this dyno, with boost set to about 32-33psi. But the fuel system is completely maxed out at well over 90% DC and I'm not willing to increase base pressure any higher than 56-57psi. Close enough to call it 550rwkw will do.     

I have a Racelogic Traction Control system installed in the car and on the drive home I quickly discovered the previous setting of 5% slip is not enough to prevent excessive wheel spin in 3rd gear as it ramps up to peak torque. Lowering it to 4% was a little better, but 3% might be required. 0% is the wet weather setting through to 25% is minimal TC input.          

 

 

  • Like 7
On ‎12‎/‎10‎/‎2017 at 8:37 PM, Nismo 3.2ish said:

This result was more what I was hoping for . Had posted it on another thread but this is the update.

I have continually lost a little from the top end but still more than needed on the street, so The End, again :) 

To finish it off I added

ATS Tripple carbon clutch, the Coppermix Twin had to go, it was a great clutch.

Emtron KV8 ECU

EFR8374   1.05

Koolig Crank Trigger

5a2d0664de25b_E85lastScott.thumb.jpg.48474c7de20d9af95762285541bdb304.jpg

That thing is the ultimate street set-up with a heap of low and mid range torque, even way down at a mere 2,500rpm. It actually looks a little similar to my previous set-up (old spec's in signature and green curves on attached dyno sheet) although nowhere near the amount of low down torque on tap from your beast!  I guess that's to be expected with a 3.2L and ultra responsive EFR8374 vs. 3.0L and no frills HTA GT3586R.         

IMG_8573.JPG

Yeah Matt , end of the day it's what you want from your car. It's all fun but an expensive exercise ?

Here is the latest Dyno , bit hard to compare because you need same scaling setup on the printout to compare BUT it drives better.

As you can see it is hitting 24 psi and dropped off a little mid range but will be tuned again after some Klms have been clocked and a bit more boost added

Having trouble downloading Dyno ?

 

Edited by Nismo 3.2ish
trouble downloading dyno graph
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...