Oil Control In Rb's For Circuit Drag Or Drift

[Roy]

LOL...this thread scares me regarding building a motor. Should just stick with my wrecker motors. Not a drop of blow by with 1.5bar up its guts and 260rwkws odd at the track...im waiting for it to start breathing. Im using NA RB20 rocker covers so im wondering if this is the reason im not getting any oil in my catch can???

When i get my new rocker covers i will gladly compare the internals and offer my NA RB20DE rocker covers to a guy that is having problems with oil in the catch cans to see if this helps solve the problem.

IS there a problem with the head swimming in oil?

[carl h]

the lifter problem is why i opted to run dual tomei restrictors rather than blocking one and then restricting the other...

havent had problems yet and with the external drains old girl seems to be doing ok.

[r33_racer]

IS there a problem with the head swimming in oil?

probably not, so long as the sump isnt swimming in air.

[MerlinTheHapyPig]

1. Yep we are up to 32 engines now and not one has any sign of oil starvation of the camshaft bearings

yes the idea of putting restrictors in does make me a little nervious, however after reading this ^ i'm not too worried about it. Good enough proof for me...

[frogstomp_R31]

i dont mean to seem like a f**k head but are you guys sure its a good idea to block the rear feed

i have the problem in my rb2030 its a 20head on a 30 vlt block so i gets the hi comp but my cams are 264 8.5 and ones 9.5 i think and they blow open my valves at 5000rpm ive also been told that theres too much oil getting to the head and making it hard for my lifters to bleed off

im getting prices on valve spring to suit 10mm lift cams so this should help my problem of the valves blowing open

so if i fit the 1.5mm restrictor it should be all sweet oil wise can i just fit X2 1.5mm restrictors ...?

Edited October 20, 2006 by frogstomp_R31

[Guilt-Toy]

Sydneykid has been working these RB30DET's since pussy was a cat and he knows what he is talking about. He has been there done that and even though blocking the oil line caused me issues I still think that blocking the rear feed is the way to go.

Have you ever seen how much smoke half a litre of oil can make when it gets sprayed over your hot red extractors ??? (No there was no fires)

The oil needs to be controlled and it has to be slown down to get to the top of the engine. Now if this means that i have to get cams and solid lifters then I will.

RB25's have ALLWAYS had problems with lifters and I just have really bad luck. So i will work it out - hopefully the last set of lifters i put in were not in good condition and are not working properly (they were not kept in oil and were dry as a bone)

Will let see if changing the lifters fix my problem tomorrow.

If it does then hello 20psi

[R31Nismoid]

i dont mean to seem like a f**k head but are you guys sure its a good idea to block the rear feed

i have the problem in my rb2030 its a 20head on a 30 vlt block so i gets the hi comp but my cams are 264 8.5 and ones 9.5 i think and they blow open my valves at 5000rpm ive also been told that theres too much oil getting to the head and making it hard for my lifters to bleed off

im getting prices on valve spring to suit 10mm lift cams so this should help my problem of the valves blowing open

so if i fit the 1.5mm restrictor it should be all sweet oil wise can i just fit X2 1.5mm restrictors ...?

yes its a good idea

yes its been done plenty of times before

and there are 100's upon 100's of motors running around like this that have been fine for years

[rockabilly]

hi guys. followed this thread when it began. at the time i was rebuilding my rb26.. its now done 2000 miles no probs .. here are some picks of my oil return mod.. sump has tomei baffle too..bernie/uk..

the plate with the tail piece was originally screwed to the head. its no bonded. while the car was at fast idle i removed the sump return to see what amount of oil was returning. at 2000 rpm its quite a shock even with a tomei 1.2 mm restrictor fitted.

[T04GTR]

lol. i posted a similar bandaid track day fix for this a while back.

put in an extra 1.5litres or dont race

[T04GTR]

ps.. whats the point of pultting an external oil return when theres alreaddy heaps of returns at the back of the head.

and for drags.. how does the oil "flow" forwards through a hose when your violently acelerating? im just curiouse

[Guilt-Toy]

Looks like Sydneykid was right - the lifters were the cause of the issue.. i changed them and its much better now. Does not make noises at 3000rpm in 5th gear on cruise anymore.

I changed the cams as well - but time will tell if the noise comes back or whatever.. its till there if you rev it sometimes but its clear now that i have to go to solids.

See what happens.. gotta get some cam seals and replace the timing belt next weekend!! what a mission

[T04GTR]

woops. il just read the above post err dave

[Cubes]

Good stuff.

I feel less worried following sk's advice for the hydraulic head.

It is worrying when you hear from engine building places not to mention tomei them selves recommending against blocking off one restrictor in a hydraulic head.

I think a final word from Proengines would be the clencher for myself.

[Godzilla32]

The RB26 rear oil feed is block from the factory and the front is already restricted to 1.5mm (i think) so it cant be that damaging. I too am about to restrict the front feed further. Also looking for a good sump baffle. Anyone?

[DVS JEZ]

finally pulled my 32GTR engine out yesterday after rebuilding it 6 months ago and notknowing about the oil control issues.

so far i have pulled head and sump off.

i went to put in a 1.5mm restrictor but it seems that the one in there is smaller than the 1.5 already...weird.

the only conclusion i can think of is that when the block was machined it closed the hole a little.

any thoughts?

should i still fit the 1.5 restrictor.

cheers

[Guilt-Toy]

my engine took a turn for the worse today...

after the noise went away for 2 days today after i was workin on the car for a few hours (fixing up some catch can hoses and made a plate to stop the direct air flow to the air filter)

The noise came back.. This time it is very loud.. maybe 4 or 5 times as loud - its loud enough to set off the knock sensors to flash the engine light.

What i did notice is that back on idle it stopped knocking.... looked at the oil pressure gauge and there was hardly any oil pressure compared to what i used to have.

I think my oil pump is crook because its making the noise around the same time it did before but its much louder and its showing very low oil pressure....

cant drive it like this if i dont load it much and rev it up quickly there is no noise - its only when you hold the same rpm for 5 seconds it starts and gets really loud - must not be able to keep the oil pressure up like it used too.

Anyone have any input or any ideas?

[Cubes]

Definitely not good.

Sticky relief valve? I doubt though.

Out of curiosity and would have nothing to do with your problem but what bearings did you use in the build?

[Guilt-Toy]

standard ACL bearings...

Definitely not good.

Sticky relief valve? I doubt though.

Out of curiosity and would have nothing to do with your problem but what bearings did you use in the build?

[DVS JEZ]

got my engine all apart now.

taking my crank to action cranks at wetherill park tommorow to get the collar fitted.

i didnt realise how bad running the n1 pump with stock early 32 GTR crank would be.

i can see the witness marks on the inside of my n1 pump, literally 2mm of the oil pump drive was being used... craaazy

guess im lucky it didnt break on me.

[Guilt-Toy]

I am pretty sure my oil pump has been screwed for the last 6 months causing me these issues. Getting a GTR pump and hopefully installing it this weekend.