Oil Control In Rb's For Circuit Drag Or Drift

[KiwiRS4T]

What I have figured out from the other side of the world is. Is this thread needs to be more foused. People on this topic should face couple of facts even though they may not like it. For circuit racing there is just nothing better than a dry sump setup and you can sit here and talk all ya want about taking long left hand turns or rights for that matter. At the end of the day if this thread was to advise people in prioritizing there results based on there investments and time spent on there motors as well as how they use it, it would help 90 % of the people that read this thread and stop at page 30, and under. Prioritize the info and save time and money. It reminds me of the 90 -10 rule in life 90 % of the people making 10% of the money and 10% of the people making 90% of the money. It relates to almost everything in life. It even goes for hp goals. Wow. Funny how people react to just opions here. Im one of them.

Everyone knows that dry sump is the best and that modifying RBs to produce twice to four times their design power brings a range of problems - this thread is dedicated to overcoming the oiling problems for those who can't afford/don't need a dry sump and as far as I am concerned it has succeeded.

[SSM]

The more I read the more confused I get. And I can't seem to find what I'm looking for.

I have stripped down my RB26 now and it is being buildt as we speak. Parts I have is:

-Late model R32 crank with long nose

-JUN oil pump

-JUN oilpan baffle

-1.2mm oil restrictor

If I do this:
-Drill the return galleries to 10mm both in the head and the block

-Make the entry to the galleries smoother

-Mine's or Hi-Octane rocker baffles

And as for the catch can:

-AN10/12 from rocker cover to top of catch can

-AN10 from top of catch can to oil pan. (ABOVE OR UNDER OIL LEVEL?)

-AN10 from bottom of catch can to oil pan. ABOVE OR UNDER OIL LEVEL?

Have I gotten everything correct then for building a RB26 that will last?
I'm driving the car manly on the road, but when I'm on the track I drive pretty fast. So I'm building it as a trackcar.


EDIT: Spec will be stock rebuild bottom end with all balanced internals. 6Boost manifold, BorgWarned 7064 EFR .92AR turbo and stand alone engine management system. Aiming for around 340kw at the flywheel.

Edited May 12, 2015 by SSM

[SiR_RB]

Might need to add a sump extension while it's been built

[SSM]

Might need to add a sump extension while it's been built

Sump will be extended to the right and left.

[r32-25t]

any breather/drain should always be fitted above the oil level

[KiwiRS4T]

^^^what he said...and you need to vent your catch can preferably to the turbo intake. if you find you are getting oil in that line (I didn't) you can insert another catch can or a Nismo type oil/air separator in that line.

[Looney_Head]

does anyone have any pictures of the inside of their catch can? it would be good to see what chambers and fillings people have used when doing their catch cans.

[MJTru]

Well, im willing to do some stuff I've never tried before as well. I just finished up a head i did myself. I am now thinking of drilling out/open up the oil return hole out for better flow. And the ones at the rear of the head will be cleaned up. Any suggestions here. Nothing was wrong with this motor. Im doing a full stock rebuild. But will push the motor with single turbo, 550cc injectors power FC. the bottom end will be all stock but have ACL race bearings new rings restrictor stock new oil pump, n1 water pump. MLS head gasket.

I have made up my mind to fix my gts4 chassis that i crash. I have attched a photos of the head and the chassis im fixing myself. Sorry if im of topic a bit here but this is an opportunity to see if all of us can collectively make some decisions to control the oil issues in a rb26. I have also repaired my damage Racefab oil pan. Photo attached as well.

[djr81]

Suggestions.

Use a fairly blunt drill bit.

Different returns may need different size bits - I cant remember one of the rear ones gets awful close to the spring seat.

Clean, clean and clean it afterwards.

Don't bother with the Mines baffles.

Put some dash fittings in the sump for breathing/oil returns.

[djr81]

does anyone have any pictures of the inside of their catch can? it would be good to see what chambers and fillings people have used when doing their catch cans.

Build it like a cyclone.

https://www.google.com.au/search?q=cyclone+oil+air+separator&safe=active&sa=X&biw=1600&bih=719&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&ei=iZNSVYb-NMi3oQTsvICYAQ&ved=0CDQQsAQ

[HarrisRacing]

Build it like a cyclone.

https://www.google.com.au/search?q=cyclone+oil+air+separator&safe=active&sa=X&biw=1600&bih=719&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&ei=iZNSVYb-NMi3oQTsvICYAQ&ved=0CDQQsAQ

I've been researching catch cans for a while and you have now convinced me to try the E39 M5 oil catch cans. I am buying a right and left one to try out of the valve covers with returns to the pan for my car. They are cheap enough to try at $40 USD shipped and seem well designed.

I'll keep everyone updated.

Here is what they look like.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=DE93-USA---E39-BMW-M5&diagId=11_2653

Edited May 13, 2015 by HarrisRacing

[djr81]

Looks nice but no idea where you are going to find the room to fit two of them.

[fatz]

neil should get in here and talk about how awesome bmw v8's are and leaking oil

[HarrisRacing]

Looks nice but no idea where you are going to find the room to fit two of them.

They are relatively small. http://imagizer.imageshack.us/a/img19/5919/oilug.jpg

I will start with just one of them. It will be returned to one of my oil pan fittings (I welded 2 -10 AN fittings into the left side of the oil pan) and will catch any "slugs" of oil that may come out of the valve covers and drain the oil back to the oil pan. I will then pipe the vapor outlets to a standard catch can and have my turbo piping pull off of that. The other oil pan AN fitting will be routed to the top of the catch can as well for imporved breathing. I'll start with just one of these, but we will see how it flows first. The second will be added later should I decide to change.

This is basically a cheaper replacement to the NISMO oil separator. I will still use a catch can, but this should knock out the majority of any oil slugging issues and return to the pan.

As far as leaks, it's plastic and has only one joint at the top of it. I am not installing a BMW engine

Edited May 14, 2015 by HarrisRacing

[djr81]

Be very interested to see what is inside the thing if at all possible. If it is straight forward would be easy enough to knock one up out of aluminium and fit it in the place of the Nismo can - the inside of which is just a deflector plate, basically.

[HarrisRacing]

http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i467/mach-schnell/M5OS.jpg

http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/cyclone_plan.cfm

Be very interested to see what is inside the thing if at all possible. If it is straight forward would be easy enough to knock one up out of aluminium and fit it in the place of the Nismo can - the inside of which is just a deflector plate, basically.

Basic cyclonic separator design. Seen them used and designed in the oilfield as well.

[KiwiRS4T]

There is a range of these made for the WRX - should be able to be copied for less:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/S2-Industries-AIR-OIL-Separator-Subaru-WRX-STI-VERSION-AOS-/151677359830?hash=item2350acd6d6&vxp=mtr

[Shoota_77]

Well, im willing to do some stuff I've never tried before as well. I just finished up a head i did myself. I am now thinking of drilling out/open up the oil return hole out for better flow. And the ones at the rear of the head will be cleaned up. Any suggestions here. Nothing was wrong with this motor. Im doing a full stock rebuild. But will push the motor with single turbo, 550cc injectors power FC. the bottom end will be all stock but have ACL race bearings new rings restrictor stock new oil pump, n1 water pump. MLS head gasket.

I have made up my mind to fix my gts4 chassis that i crash. I have attched a photos of the head and the chassis im fixing myself. Sorry if im of topic a bit here but this is an opportunity to see if all of us can collectively make some decisions to control the oil issues in a rb26. I have also repaired my damage Racefab oil pan. Photo attached as well.

Marcus check out my build thread, this should show you what you need to do to your block and head to improve your oil return- http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/414784-shootas-r33-gt-r-rb3026/page-4 get a long shank die grinder bit, makes it a lot easier to get right in there.

[fatz]

updating my twin tank arangement

just a bigger second tank located where the washer bottle is

same drain and same breather setup

will be turning on the scavenge pump as well

also opted for a accusump as i have noticed drops in oil pressure on left handers at 1.3-5g

[Shoota_77]

Looks great. Accusump is an absolute no brainer for me. They're a small price to pay to potentially save your engine.