Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got to get block, have a machine, pay for workshop to ahve machine in, pay for consumables for machine (drills etc), pay for someone to mount up block to machine, pay for someone to oparate it for drilling.
That's where the costs come from

2 hours ago, czy18e said:

What about what size oil restrictors for non neo 25 head with NO vct? It's not on the chart?

Its the middle column - RB25/20 no VVT

 

Hey guys I'm doing my first rb25 build, rb25det head and block. I've been reading this thread for hours, super helpful. I understand with an rb25det vct head I leave the vct oil feed alone, block the middle and restrict the third. Okay now my question is I plan on going from hydraulic to solid lifters, so then do I restrict the front vct oil feed, block the middle and rear or what? i know the rb26 is solid lifters and the rear oil feed is blocked from factory, so the chart states restrict front oil feed and block rear. And do solid lifters rid of the vct? I'm a little lost there.

  • 2 weeks later...

Rather than the stainless steel wool packed into a stocking has anyone tried sintered brass exhaust silencers (As seen on ebay and the like) to filter the oil.

I noticed that Mishimoto appear to use exactly that.

https://www.mishimoto.com/compact-baffled-oil-catch-can-2-port.html

Would be neater, surely?

On 08/03/2017 at 4:38 PM, djr81 said:

Rather than the stainless steel wool packed into a stocking has anyone tried sintered brass exhaust silencers (As seen on ebay and the like) to filter the oil.

I noticed that Mishimoto appear to use exactly that.

https://www.mishimoto.com/compact-baffled-oil-catch-can-2-port.html

Would be neater, surely?

Just gave my secret away. They work damn well...just use the biggest bastard/s you can squeeze in

  • 4 weeks later...

Hey guys I've had a good read of the last 10-15 pages but here goes.

ive got a rb25/30neo, it's a built motor with all the usual forged bits and pieces. 

Oil wise it has an ASR 8.5L sump, n1 pump with billet gears, all drains in the head were enlarged and cleaned up. From memory front oil feed is blocked and 1.2mm restrictor in the rear. Stock rb26 cam covers with 2 3/4 hoses to a small vented can..

Never had any issues with blow bye or anything on 20-25 psi street-drag or dyno.

Just recently fitted a water meth injection kit and running around 30psi, all good on dyno and street but at the drags it started pushing oil out the breathers (about 400ml each run).

Have done a comp test and leak down test and all looks good. 

I really don't want to have to pull the sump off. I have thought about pulling the head off and fitting a rear vent and tee'ing into the turbo drain (spool sells this kit). 

Just looking for some other opinions 

cheers 

7 hours ago, Huzqld said:

I really don't want to have to pull the sump off. I have thought about pulling the head off and fitting a rear vent and tee'ing into the turbo drain (spool sells this kit). 

Just looking for some other opinions 

cheers 

I don't believe that will do anything but if you are hell bent on it go ahead and report back.

A cheaper option would be to put another 400ml in each run. You can decide whether to recycle what comes out or not.

The real fix is a couple of 1/2 in sump breathers with one draining back to the sump.

And ideally you have a 2L catch can properly baffled and vented to the turbo intake.

I have mine like this. If I had to do it all again, I would probably do a separate drain port into the sump but I can't really be bothered now. Probably doesn't do much but its there

 

20130911_170210_zps2837dafc.jpg

  • Like 1
14 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

The real fix is a couple of 1/2 in sump breathers with one draining back to the sump.

And ideally you have a 2L catch can properly baffled and vented to the turbo intake.

Thanks mate, So don't worry about the head vent. And ideally the sump breathers to catch can are the go (which means engine out).

I was going to go a bigger catch can anyway.

If i was to tee into the turbo drain with a -10 or-12 and run that to top of a catch can would be of any help? 

Decided I'll pull the motor out and fit the sump breathers and drain back etc and a couple other things. While it's out is it worthwhile just to do the head vent/drain whatever you want to call it as well l. Or it's absolutely not needed and save the $200? 

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...