Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 62
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

My top grade rims *cough were manufactured by Rossa.

Never herd of them my self.

As I said in my post, I wanted to change all four rims to stockies but could'nt remove the front two. Still wouldn't have expected what happend to happen, but can't cry over spilt milk as they say....

I reckon I went around that track 20 times and grinned like a little boy on Cristmas eve on every one of them. Just loved it.

Good fun isn't it? :blink:

:yucky: man thats gotta hurt.. who woulda expect that to happen? good that ur all good though. ill show this to my mates and then maybe they will stop telling me that im wasting my money buying expensive rims like volks or somethin. cant wait to get my car on the track!
There are lots of wheels that are made by other lesser known companies - does this mean that these wheels are not as good as ones made by enkei or volk?

generally i'd have to say yes. Enkei/Volk etc are going to make better rims than what you find at bob jane or the tyre factory etc

There are lots of wheels that are made by other lesser known companies - does this mean that these wheels are not as good as ones made by enkei or volk?

Lesser known is a bit broad, as just because you haven't heard of them before doesn't mean they're a shitty brand.

Price will usually tell you, as well as whether they are a forged rim etc. Generally these 17 inch rims from Tempe Tyres etc for $1000 with tyres aren't going to be the most shlt hot rims around... you get what you pay for

Forged are good, but there is nothing wrong with cast wheels. Nothing at all., Only they have to be good quality castings. Forged rims (depending on materials) can be nice and light, the flip side is they need all the strength they can get because they are light and can actually be so hard they are brittle...hence why race wheels are replaced so often. (Forged magnesium etc)

A thing to consider is what the weight bearing capacity is for the wheels. Some of the cheap ones shoudlnt be under 1400kg sports cars...

..anyway, thats my thoughts. I could be wrong!

That's pretty scary... I've got myself a set of rims which is sourced through local T-mart, lucky haven't gotten anything similar but haven't got a prob last yr @ winton & calder... but looks like mine has a slightly bulkier design around the hub, so hopefully it's stronger. And last week I was considering to buy a Starcorp Racing wheel advertised on ebay since i've been looking for something wider than this 17x7.5" I have...

Or could it be that your rims (since it came with the car) might have developed stress/fatique fractures over the x years of use, cos you can't really tell how the previous owner treats their car...

Those rims are junk, but at least you knew that they could be a problem and tried to put stronger rims on. Unfortunately with a load rating that just won't accept racing loads you may have difficulty getting them to pay for damage, which is minimal and could have been far worse.

If you want to take it further and need some expert engineering advice contact me.

Welcome to the unique group with "Track Disease".

Lesser known is a bit broad, as just because you haven't heard of them before doesn't mean they're a shitty brand.

Price will usually tell you, as well as whether they are a forged rim etc. Generally these 17 inch rims from Tempe Tyres etc for $1000 with tyres aren't going to be the most shlt hot rims around... you get what you pay for

Hmm - i checked on www.tgsperformance.com.au - the rims I have (HR racing) is around the $1200 - $1400 range. Perhaps wheels like these are suited more for looks rather than for racing.

I run spacers and haven't had a problem thus far... but I'm a little paranoid too now! Still gonna use them though

yes but you have forged monoblock wheels Dane, I would say the LMGT-4's are more than a little stronger :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HUMVEE are fine in big open areas, but they are problematic on the street and tight areas As for reliability, some of the  US Army guys I have chatted with have said that when they were working they were fine, but, the do spend alot of time in workshops for multiple reasons, admittedly, they did get a hard time by the boys and girls who drove them I would definitely put them in the "buyer beware" category  They do look tough as nails though 
    • Just don't use ChatGPT or any other artificial stupidity for the equivalent of googling. Their demonstrated inability to discriminate reality from hallucination should be enough to make them totally untrusted. LLMs don't know anything and cannot think to even the smallest extent. They are just predictors of the next word, and that should never be confused with capability.
    • I think, given the usage model described in the OP, I'd never ever experience the wonders of the 400kW upgrade. What I really need is boost from 2000rpm and probably no more than 260-270rwkW. But I suspect that the highflow is not actually the turbo for that purpose, so I may in fact need to get a G25 or 30 or something right sized and very spooly. We shall see after it is tuned. I've had to back the boost and boost ramp off to stop the thing from pinging since the highflow went on, so I've been almost living the NA life for 9 months now! Injectors are recently in hand. AFM is in hand. Dyno is fixed. Just need to clear a queue of f**king Supras out of the way (and probably fit my new gearbox). So....some time this year? Lol.
    • For what I gather is a Sunday/summer car....braided is fine. You're not going to be left without a vehicle and you have plenty of time for inspection/maintenance. Oof. I wouldn't use them that way. They can probably handle the temperature** but the internal corrugations means that their flow characteristics are a bit shit. Lots of extra friction and pressure loss. Makes them flow like the next pipe size down. ** They are stainless, and the stainless can usually be at least something like 304L, which is pretty good at higher temperatures (unlike 316L, which I would use for a wrt/corrosive environment, but not a particularly hot environment). But the welding needs to be top notch. And even then, because you usually need at least one cone-seat end on them (because you can twist the hose and do up both ends at the same time unless one of them is a union) they can be prone to coming loose with heat cycles.
    • I don't have the OEM oil feed lines though and the turbo-wraparound line is torn, only has water. My plan is to get replacements for these and just connect a braided line to there. And make sure it's leak free. Hoses like these are also sometimes used to connect external wastegates, so for an EGR I think you're good using them.
×
×
  • Create New...