Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

doesn't look too bad at all. Would do wonders for stock plumbing on a Standard Skyline

Yes I ran one similiar on my 25, just the FMIC's slates that allow the air to run through where perpendicular to that of yours. Worked just fine, 277whp on stock turbo at 11psi, lag from going to that from a side mount was unnoticeable.

My younger brother had one on his r33 also. A PWR variety. For ease of installation and piping fab, it was pretty good with little modification required. However they bend into a nice 'U' shape when you hit a tree at about 80kph.

My younger brother had one on his r33 also. A PWR variety. For ease of installation and piping fab, it was pretty good with little modification required. However they bend into a nice 'U' shape when you hit a tree at about 80kph.

I have an Apexi Genuine equivalent....made 240 rwkw on it before i sold the car.

Its for sale in the classified section if your interested.

it would be ok as long as there was some kind of separator plate in the end tank between the entry/exit holes

essentially it would be 2 thin intercoolers on top of eachother...

but if there were no separating plate, theoretically most air would bypass the core and go straight to the engine without going through the core.. that would obviously be pointless

My younger brother had one on his r33 also. A PWR variety. For ease of installation and piping fab, it was pretty good with little modification required. However they bend into a nice 'U' shape when you hit a tree at about 80kph.

cut it open see if there is a separating plate in the middle :)

you'd be able to see the separator plate from looking in the ends with a torch.

This intercooler would be excellent. The air spends a lot more time in the intercooler than a normal 600 x 300 x 75 mm one.

I could see another benefit with that particular Ebay intercooler is that it wouldn't completely block the radiator. But would it provide decent cooling or is it not worth it?

air only goes in the direction you point it and doesnt like changing directions and a tight 180deg turn will definetly have an impact on flow characteristics

the kits that have the return pipe over the top of intercooler are quite good to save a bit of pipework hassle , thats 2 x 90 deg turns instead

having said that these type of coolers can still perform ok and obviously an upgrade from stock

Edited by arkon
cut it open see if there is a separating plate in the middle :)

dont cut it, im sure there wld be a seperating plate - its like two small intercoolers sitting on top of each other, with a u-tube connected at one end.

Edited by Trav33

currently have 1 on my car thought mines of the standard core size with a curved style end tank on the left.

the flow is not as bad as you would believe, the pipping on mine was a nightmare as the top side pipe is to high and requires an extra bend,almost immediatly to get low enough to get past the reo and into the corner of the car. its an excellent method of dropping excess pipping and even allows use of hte stock piping route.

down side is you have a wierd looking FMIC setup, having hte piping on 1 side means you can see the usual pipe on 1 side but not the other and the fact that mine has a curved side which improves airflow back looks wierd when you can see it behind hte front bar.

i had a trust version of that cooler on my R33, mad 244rwkw no problem, If you look closely it is actually two coolers side by side, with the fins pointing up and down rather than left to right..

It is in the for sale section if anyone is interested.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @GTSBoy yeah i know it was not the "great" idea but it is and option...but i think i will stay on no BoV rather then trying to make it work with "half" this and that. But that GReddy FV2 is cool...i like that you can make it like stock if you want (and have/make the custom pipes) For other thanks! it was alot of information. But for the sound...a dont rly "like" both of them...specialy if they are loud...but if i "must" choose i would rather have little whooosh rather than sutututu with no BoV....BUT that is what is i gonna get. So for the all info i gather. In my case:  No BoV is not that bad cuz it is stock...and iam used to put N/clutch right after rpms are around 1000 so it should be ok...just need to avoid "big" drops. But i do not have the engine in the car so i do not really know how "bad" or good it is. But as i had that little test drive it looked ok. The atmo BoV should be worse car would dump to much fuel specialy between the shifts...so without proper tune/ECU i dont want that. BUT with that...car should drive ok with no problems right? (i do like there is less piping wih this solution) 🙂 
    • Usually an RB20 won't stay in closed loop idle anyway. The O2 sensor gets too cold, stops swinging.
    • They aren't, but it depends on what interests you about an R32-R34. If it's the front engine I6 turbo that tunes well with a manual transmission an E92 335i 6MT is so incredibly cheap. You can get a super clean one for 20-25k USD tops. Put an LSD in it, tune it, have fun with it. If it's the general idea of AWD + turbo and a manual transmission the 996 Turbo is absolutely much more expensive, it's less practical but it's also basically a complete track-ready car from the factory. At least the Mezger doesn't have heaps of oil control issues. And in the US the 996 Turbo and R33 GTR are roughly the same price these days. 996 maybe a bit more now that the hype has abated for old Skylines here.
    • these are not the same
    • Best kept secret for seized bolts is crayons... Heat the sucker up with a torch, and push/melt crayon into it. Works a wonder. See if I can go 2 from 2 for you on how to get your bolts out...
×
×
  • Create New...