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You just had to bring the bolt cretins into this didnt ya, but i had already throught about them and got them covered.

Every one knows if you hang full cans of WD40 around the shed it sort of works like garlic and vampires. The garlic bit worked on the missus so i have high hopes on the bolt cretin cure.

Edited by tacker

forget fairies, find yourself some underpants gnomes. we all know they work all day, searching for underpants yay, they won't rest till they find underpants.... and so on. they are very hard working providing you can deal with them singing that song non-stop.

I have my engine sitting on the floor in the garage and it looks like the biggest pos that was ever made.

Just looking at all the bits n pieces all over the place makes me nervous to touch anything.

Day 15!

i was down to the last can of beer i had used in vain in my turbo fairy trap. The very last can, nothing else but the makers name and that was written in french and partly obsucured in blood from my torn up hands.

Thought i better wipe some of the blood away with an old rag before putting it out of its misery. And bugga me if the beer can genie didnt pop out offering me 3 wishes.

Wish one, please please put the turbos back on me car, poof .....all done!

Wish two, Return all the beer the barstard turbos fairies drank while demolishing my engine bay. Poof ...........full fridge!

Wish three, stock up the other fridge so i can at least temp the pressure plate pixies to come and replace my clutch as it aint gunna hold on too long with 455 AWHP after dyno session today.

WHOO HOO

Edited by tacker

yep all at .9 bar so i still have a bit to play with i would think just flat lined at about 7200 when wastgates opened. We did higher runs for what it was worth but we add some more fuel just to be safe and have AFR's mid 11's.

BIG improvement came from adjusting the cam timing was about 40 to 50 more HP depending on how hot the car was on its run. But just so much more agressive on ramp up really big difference mid range.

yep all at .9 bar so i still have a bit to play with i would think just flat lined at about 7200 when wastgates opened. We did higher runs for what it was worth but we add some more fuel just to be safe and have AFR's mid 11's.

BIG improvement came from adjusting the cam timing was about 40 to 50 more HP depending on how hot the car was on its run. But just so much more agressive on ramp up really big difference mid range.

Gee I hope this is not part of the fairy tale - 455hp.

Nah - well done. Big effort. It almost makes the pain worth it.

Let's hope mine goes as well. :)

yer not to sure about the figure myself or how you calibrate a dyno dynamics 4 wheel dyno. but either way it performs sooo much better

But what a difference in performance...my hands dont hurt half as much as they did early last week.

I dont know about the figure produced but the tuner didnt seem interested in the graph reading much at all. didnt move his eyes from the wide band or remove the det cans from his head, really didnt give a rats about the figure.

  • 9 years later...
  • 1 month later...

Pay some-one else to do it...If your not a mechanic...

Cost approx...$500 to $600.Engine in..."don't make them take it out cause their lazy."

This will cost another $500

The extras such as new copper washers/bolts/gaskets/oil and water lines"if needed"

can cost though.

Great explanation / DIY Turbo replacement for a GTR..

Old thread i know. ...but..pretty sure removing the whole engine to do a more thorough job isnt being lazy, its called do it once and do it right

I will be removing my engine before I put myself thru this kind of pain and suffering, I know just from looking that there is going to be many tears

Very funny writeup.

This is the solution though. There's no way in hell I would attempt to pull all that mess down with the engine in the car!!!

To add fuel to the fire, I can remove my BW 8374 EFR completely in about 45 minutes. There are 4 nuts, 1 V-band clamp, 1 hose clamp, 1 vacuum/boost line, and 4 AN fittings to/from it. All very very accessible.

But in all honesty I did contemplate staying twin for a long time. But I DEFINITELY would convert to speed density (Haltech or other) by removing the MAF's remove ALL BOV piping spanning from the driver's side of the car over to the intake piping and change them for BOV's that don't open under part throttle, and just simplify the inlet / outlet piping in general. I think half the hassle is simply getting TO the turbos. I can't imagine trying to find a boost leak in that mess.

Old thread i know. ...but..pretty sure removing the whole engine to do a more thorough job isnt being lazy, its called do it once and do it right

It can be done in the car and works without issue. How is it anymore thorough? Totally unnecessary to remove the engine!

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