Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm just managing to squeeze 200 ks out of 30 lts of premium just city driving , this seems like it could b better , only had the car for a short while ( 250 t rs four ) aero pack , really enjoying the ride but would like some better economy , can you make any adjustments on the trip comp to the leaness or do you advise a run on the dyno , it's due for a service in a couple of months what should they be doing to improve economy

If you've only had the car for a short while then it might also be worth taking it to Wheel and Suspension place to ensure your balanced and aligned correctly. Mine was out when I got it imported and I was chewing down heaps of fuel (daily). Got the wheels balanced and aligned and it was all sweet. Getting about 450-500 per tank now.

quick question, i think my car is running massively lean considering the k's i have seen on here, i seem to be doing around 550 km on about 40L or roughly of fuel. usually BP ultimate. i am trying to work out wat could be causing such good economy. thats mainly city driving. with some freeway/highway. even through hills doesn't change too much. occasionally get a back fire through exhaust which i am guessing is over fuelling. exhaust smells like its running rich though at idle :S only had the car a month and a bit. nd average is the 550 out of around 40L min is about 520km or so :S

quick question, i think my car is running massively lean considering the k's i have seen on here, i seem to be doing around 550 km on about 40L or roughly of fuel. usually BP ultimate. i am trying to work out wat could be causing such good economy. thats mainly city driving. with some freeway/highway. even through hills doesn't change too much. occasionally get a back fire through exhaust which i am guessing is over fuelling. exhaust smells like its running rich though at idle :S only had the car a month and a bit. nd average is the 550 out of around 40L min is about 520km or so :S

Do you have a prius engine under your bonnet? mine is completely out of tune and doing 300 on city...

i wish. standard motor. running 11psi, exhaust (high flow cat with 3" back) otherwise rest is standard as far as i know. one of the BOV hoses blocked off i am fair sure. Auto as well. so yea i am confused as too wat is giving me such good economy as i have a fairly heavy foot some times, especially through hills.

all highway KM, got 14.7L/100km lol i think its a little rich hahaha

That is a bit high for all highway, except if you were cannon balling in NT, lol.

Did a highway/city mix to Goldy & back yesterday. 10.0L/100. Would have been an easy 9 - 9.5 if I had the patience to set the cruise on 90 instead of 1XX.

That is a bit high for all highway, except if you were cannon balling in NT, lol.

Did a highway/city mix to Goldy & back yesterday. 10.0L/100. Would have been an easy 9 - 9.5 if I had the patience to set the cruise on 90 instead of 1XX.

i sat on 100-120 the whole way, no slowing down no interuptions, as it was late night just a nice easy run.

my city driving is much worse :S

at idle you can smell fuel at the back of the car. might need to look into it eventually.

i sat on 100-120 the whole way, no slowing down no interuptions, as it was late night just a nice easy run.

my city driving is much worse :S

at idle you can smell fuel at the back of the car. might need to look into it eventually.

Mmm, mine was mainly @ 115, with city stop/start thrown in. Do you have a wideband meter yet? I recommend ones that can replace the EGO input into the ECU with a modified narrowband output so you can run a bit leaner on closed loop if you want. Then an interceptor on the AFM signal & you have full control.

At the amount of extra fuel you are using now, you'll probably get your money back pretty quickly, lol.

Edited by Commsman

Just got mine retuned so I gotta wait to see how it goes now, but before tune i was getting about 350-400 city driving and well over 500 on the highway (never did full highway runs) but would usually hit 350-400 to roughly half a tank.

wow funny how your getting some 150 more then most RSV most are around 500 averge per tank ,

most of the autos are 400 too 450 if alls sweet,

if i have a run in hills i do half a tank to 150ks,

many say normal driving ,if your in Perth normal driving is next set of lights to get to speed limit pinch.gif ,

i hope to have a play with nistune & hope i may get 500 per tanks ,

Thats not normal driving :whistling:

PLEASE STATE IF C34,

AS VOLVO DRIVERS KEEP POSTING THERES :rolleyes:

I drive a C34 S2, and its auto. Go to a tuner that knows their shit, and it'll happen buddy.

Sutton Forrest (southern highlands) to albury= 9.0 liters per 100km.

Woohoo! Who said these fat wagons can't be economical (relatively speaking). Nice. What I like is the better you let these breathe, the more efficient & economical they become. Oh, & faster, lol.

Just did the return trip from Albury to Syndey (to my door) and got a great result.

4 people on board, boot loaded with all the clothes and crissy pressies. filled up before leaving Albury.

9.4L / 100km to West Ryde.

2 stops and traveling at a radar friendly 114kmh.

My Stagea has been getting decent fuel ecconomy lately. From the last two fill ups.

384km

56L

14.79L/100km

419km

56.8L

13.56L/100km

Haven't changed anything, drive the same route to work, mixxed driving. Wierd.

Just did the return trip from Albury to Syndey (to my door) and got a great result.

4 people on board, boot loaded with all the clothes and crissy pressies. filled up before leaving Albury.

9.4L / 100km to West Ryde.

2 stops and traveling at a radar friendly 114kmh.

That's pretty good economy Andy, just the Nismo?

114kmh is radar friendly?

Even in a 110kph zone, it's around a $140 fine below the Murray... take off the 3 points for possible error, still leaves you at 111 in a 110 zone... Yay Vic road rules, stopping all the dangerous driving!

That's pretty good economy Andy, just the Nismo?

114kmh is radar friendly?

Even in a 110kph zone, it's around a $140 fine below the Murray... take off the 3 points for possible error, still leaves you at 111 in a 110 zone... Yay Vic road rules, stopping all the dangerous driving!

Nismo and the Suction pipe.

In NSW yes it is friendly.. :)

I did a trip from Albury to Stanly and drove past 2 road side radars and did not even know it as they are in unmarked cars (RAV4) and no signage.. VIC government should be ashamed, that is blatant revenue raising as there is no safety aspect to it.

About time the VIC people stood up to the Government and tell what they think about their behavior.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...