Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well, im running 11-12 psi daily with 1.1mm ngk iridiums. so stock coils are very good. as for the coils holding up ive only starting to notice it flatting out around 6kish rpm. cant expect much from them since they are like 12 year old coils and running relatively large gap for 11psi.

Edited by philta
well, im running 11-12 psi daily with 1.1mm ngk iridiums. so stock coils are very good. as for the coils holding up ive only starting to notice it flatting out around 6kish rpm. cant expect much from them since they are like 12 year old coils and running relatively large gap for 11psi.

i dont see that there is nothing wrong with stock coils unless they are buggered already, so a change is in order..

i was running 14psi on 1.1 gap plugs no problem, i dont see what the craze about gapping plugs is, but then again i dont race my car.

Don't agree with this statement. All the stuff I've seen from China has been lower quality than the Japanese made stuff. 1/2 the price for sure. And China may make thousands of motorbikes but not that many make it into Australia.

i never said motorbikes. i am talking bicycles. i work in the bike industry and i have compared US made stuff as well as taiwan and china made stuff and you can't really tell a difference. i know a guy that imports carbon/alloy bmx forks. they are identical to a big name brand. his get made on the same production line, made to the same specification. they are made at the exact same time, they just don't have the brand name sticker put on them. he retails them at under half of the retail price of the brand name ones.

all the chinese made motorbike stuff is crap cause they just want cheap crap, they don't care too much about the quality.

i was running 14psi on 1.1 gap plugs no problem, i dont see what the craze about gapping plugs is, but then again i dont race my car.

it isn't a craze. it is something you HAVE to do if you want to be able to drive your car without a missfire when your coils start breaking down. but you don't have to do it unless your coils are breaking down. i only did it because i got a missfire.

im runnin 14psi with 1.1gap on my platnum plugs.. no problems here.. i had a misfiring once.. but it wasnt the coils.. was the stupid igniter module.

OEM coils r fkn awesome but cost more.. and im sure theres a reason they cost more :D

cant compare 14yo coils to brand new splitfires and JJR's... i reckon the OEM coils out do those other brands anyway..

its what they raced with years ago (brand new coils thou) and didnt have problems.. but i guess when u have 14yo coils and u need new ones, and the OEM's r just too far priced.. best alternative would be splits or JJR's...

I've just purchased a set of the JJR ones, hella cheap at $399, i have a missfire of sorts, hopefully these fix it

Is it worth replacing the wiring harness that goes to the packs? Are these prone to having connection problems?

cheers

I've had the JJR coilpacks in for a month and they have changed how my car drives completely, well worth the $400 spent (but not much more), smoother, revs cleaner, no more 'skyline miss'. They replaced my factory ones that would be pushing 18yo. The way i look at is this; 'if the standard ones lasted 18 years and still worked OK after 150K's, why the f#ck do i need ones that are going to last another 18 years and 150K's? Seriously, if im still driving my dirty poo in 5 years time there ain't gonna be much left of the car thats original, i don't want to be driving round a car over 25yo as my daily. Who can seriously say that they want to be driving their skyline as a daily after another 150k's on the clock, sorry for those that might but i wouldn't.

Good on JJR for bringing some competition to the market, it's about time we stop getting held for ransom forced to pay $600 for splitfires. 5% of my cars buying price on coilpacks doesn't make sense, they ain't going to make my car any faster compared to $600 spent anywhere else on my car. I find it interesting that Splitfires dropped $100 over night it seems, (or did they drop in price to $500 before the JJR packs were released?) either way it goes to show how much of a mark-up somebody is making along the line, i have closely inspected both and there is nothing wrong with the fit and finish of the JJR ones, im not saying that quality is determined by how something looks, but.... having worked in the R&D and design of industrial injection moulded plastics I would reason that you wouldn't spend soo much capital on the die's to make these parts if you weren't going to use quality materials in the rest of the product. I couldn't see any hints of 'dodgy knockoff' in the choice of materials or quality of manufacture on any of the packs. One thing i did notice however is that the JJR ones don't have the little graphite ceramic contact thingy that my factory ones had attached to the end of the spring that sits on the plug, im not sure what they do or if they are important for logevity to stop corrosion over time but im pretty sure not all factory skyline coilpacks have those anyway, i don't plan on keeping the car for long enough to find out, and with a 12month Australian waranty then you would have to really think hard to justify the extra money on a set of Splitfires.

Just my 2 cents...

Interesting topic... I have to replace my coils soon and the jjr ones are looking good.

i have a jjr split front/dump and am very happy with the product.

as far as heat resistance goes... i wonder how the JJR coil packs go under heat, i mean long term... from what i understand coil packs can crack under heat over time and under the coil pack cover heat gets trapped. But at the same time you can modify your cover by putting vents in to let heat escape i suppose...

but then again as mentioned above if the OEM ones last the time they have, we dont have to worrie about long term effects on the coil packs once they are bought brand new...

when you have the cover on, when moisture gets in it doesn't get out very easily. any water that gets in will just turn into steam and most of it will stay in there, then when the car cools back down it will just condense on everything. no cover means that any condensation that gets in gets out just as easy.

plus it means next time you want to take your plugs out you don't have to take off your cross over pipe. just unplug the coils, undo the 3 or 4 bolts that hold the coild pack holder bracket and lift the coils out in lots of 3.

i had to degrease my engine so i put my coil cover back on. i splashed the top of the motor a bit but not much. when i went to drive it i discovered that half the coils were covered in water. took the cover off, used a rag to soak up as much of the water as i could and then just let the car run until it was all boiled off.

next time you have your coil pack cover off lean over the motor and look towards the front of the car, you will see these little louvers that vent between the area under the cam cover and the area between the cylinder head that the coil pack cover seals up, any type of venting of the coil pack cover or leaving it off is bad news for the longevity of your cam gears/belt and other pulleys that reside behind your cam cover. That area is not meant to be vented to the dusty turbulent environment under your hood. That area is meant to stay sealed, unless you can figure out a way to stop dust getting into that area under your cam cover i would only be taking my coilpack cover off on the track if you plan to drive your car daily and save your coil packs, if anybody else has an opinion on this i would love to hear it,

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a vb in honour of the car comming back
    • It was a great, but typical track day, and some VB was ingested at the night time debrief 🤪
    • And so, to round this out, I couldn't be happier to confirm @MBS206 has decided to buy the car. He drove down from sunny QLD with a trailer last week and it is off to its new home today. I'll let Matt confirm on next steps but I understand broadly that the plan is to leave it pretty much as is, and just get some quality wheel time with a nicely balanced car that is pretty much track ready. There are a few a jobs still to be done first but nothing too major and I think its a very smart buy Dinner last night at the Paragon with a round of VBs (mostly) for Neil
    • Well, 50 pages and the end of a chapter for this car. We took it out for a shakedown at Wakie yesterday, and everything went well. There were a couple of niggles: - Oil cooler fitting leak - tightened, cleaned, stopped leaking - Radiator cap overflow fitting was leaking....Mark called it, the overflow fitting was threaded in and not tight....tightened, tested and held pressure - Small oil leak at the rear of the block, probably the turbo oil feed - too hot to get at it comfortably but probably just needs to be nipped up - leak at the driver's side rear brake line where it meets the hardline. Fitting wasn't loose, so Matt backed it off and back on, no further leaks - there's also a leak somewhere on the top of the fuel tank, maybe that cross over fuel line - that was has been left to fix when its on a hoist Otherwise than those niggles the car went great, turned great and stopped great so it was a very successful day out. I'm always really nervous when a car first hits the track after a long break, especially with a brand new engine as well but it was great. VID-20251011-WA0007.mp4  Big thanks to @The Bogan who dropped by and helped out, @MBS206 and my nephew Lachlan the apprentice.  Neil's wife Mel also surprised the hell out of all of us by dropping by; she's up in Tamworth these days but was travelling to Melbourne so had plausible deniability for turning up at the garage, it was great to see her but also obviously a bit sad all round.
    • Skyline R33 Series 2 sedan tail lights in excellent condition. These are becoming harder to find, especially in this state.    BOTH SETS ARE IN FANTASTIC CONDITION (REFER TO PHOTOS)    ✅ No broken covers or cracks ✅ Lenses are in flawless condition ✅ All rear mounting lugs intact ✅ Comes complete as pictured ✅ Perfect for restoration, replacement, or upgrade   These lights are ready to go, no surprises just quality OEM parts.   These are definitely one of the better sets we have seen in a while. With minimal wear and tear they will come as you see. Bear in mind they are not brand new they are almost 30 years old now. To find them in this condition isn’t easy they can only be obtained on the second hand market.   Australia Wide Postage Available At Buyers Expense. Silver Set:$850 Grey Set:$850 PM Me for purchase or any other questions  IMG_2166.dng IMG_2165.dng IMG_2172.dng IMG_2173.dng IMG_2174.dng IMG_2179.dng IMG_2180.dng IMG_2260.dng IMG_2258.dng IMG_2259.dng IMG_2261.dng IMG_2266.dng IMG_2273.dng IMG_2274.dng IMG_2276.dng
×
×
  • Create New...