Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I run a set of the yellow jacket coil packs that Performance Wise offers.

To set the scene, picture an RB30 block, built to "nissan spec" (Now, I use this term loosely, as the whole motor seems to have been poorly put together when I bought it, but that's another story)

Sitting on top of that is an RB25DE head, with some nice porting done. Slapped to one side resides a 6Boost high mount manifold, with a bit of a mix and match turbo, that brings boost on F'ing hard at 4000RPM.

Now, I was running a set of split fires, they never really missed a beat... Well that was until they met the end of their life, just days before the car got strapped to the dyno for a full tune...

Split fire melt down... Catastrophically...

So in went the Yellow Jackets. Nice smooth idle again still, and "clean" revving, as much as the engine could, on such an over fuelled, out of tune fuel map.

So onto the dyno the car rolled.

Pushing at 3600RPM, and 5PSi of boost, the car was making 193RWKW... Now this dyno appears to be reading VERY low of late too, but we don't really care for read outs.

Anyway, we start to allow it to rev up... Only to find that as we pass 4500RPM no matter what we do with the dyno, strapping, tyres, ANYTHING, we can't stop the car from wheel spinning...

In the end, the car rattled off a healthy 340RWHP, @14 PSi with a very well lowered red line, (Valve float up above 6000 - 6500 RPM.).

Air fuel ratios were kept in check at a nice and rich 11:1, with not a lot of ignition timing, so the setup over all has alot of fuel to burn through, under pressure.

The coil packs never missed a beat, and that included the next day when the car rolled up to Oran Park raceway to go for some sprints around the GP circuit...

Now this day showed how much torque (And hence, how well these coil packs were doing) when I attempted to pull out at 70KM/H in 3rd and speed up to 110KM/h on the Hume, only to find wheel spin as I passed 80KM/h...

And most of my time at Oran Park was met the same way, attempt to prod the throttle in 3rd gear whilst doing 110KM/H was met with a pure roar of wheel spin. I only really did it in 3rd, as I never really bothered to touch 2nd, as it was just wheel spin with any throttle opening...

That was until the car spun a big end bearing anyway... But again, another story...

  • Like 1
Heres some stats......

Splitfire - 12 month warranty - $630+/set + post

Yellow Jackets - 12 month warranty - $350/set + post

JJR - 12 month warranty - $400/set + post

Super Spark - 2-6 month warranty? - $500/set

I also searched the coil packs threads and havent heard of any bad experiences on the Yellow jackets at all.

ive been running the yellow jackets in my series 2 for a few months now with no issues at all as have much others. it seems there has been few issues from the JJR & superspark's and they cost more!

i actuallly did 2 dyno runs, 1 with my stock coils which were not missing at all, and 1 with the yellow jackets. the yellow jackets made 2 more hp. at the time my car had the following mods: 3inch turboback exhaust, r34 SMIC, 11psi from turbotech MBC, k&n panel filter.

314v4ur.jpg

sg9s.jpg

so +1 for yellow jackets

My coilpacks carked it on a drive back home... had to baby it so it wouldnt miss. Thankfully I'm grabbing a set of new coilpacks next week anyways. Pretty keen on Yellow Jackets, though I have enough for the Splitfire I wouldnt mind having a couple hundred dollars spare.

My coilpacks carked it on a drive back home... had to baby it so it wouldnt miss. Thankfully I'm grabbing a set of new coilpacks next week anyways. Pretty keen on Yellow Jackets, though I have enough for the Splitfire I wouldnt mind having a couple hundred dollars spare.

yeah im going for yellow jackets this coming week too. the car is in the workshop on monday for a manual conversion and would finally like to crank the boost past 7psi without bloody missfire. cant wait to take it for a spin at mallala raceway again :D

genuine coilpacks are great when new, better than splitfires or any others... but theyre also $1200 from nissan.

Might be $1200 from nissan but they are (tonight) $143.11 shipped to Sydney each from RHDjapan. Im im for new coils and I wont be buying anything other then OEM.

Sold over 30 sets from a groupbuy here in Canada and I personnally have them on my car, and they fixed my missfires and gave me some torque. Cheaper then splitfires and as good, excellent value for the money!

Sold over 30 sets from a groupbuy here in Canada and I personnally have them on my car, and they fixed my missfires and gave me some torque. Cheaper then splitfires and as good, excellent value for the money!

Talking about Yellow Jackets btw ! forgot to mention

Well all is good with the yellow jackets…actually better than good man they are awesome. Idle sits on 850-900 without missing a beat. This may seem weird but I definitely have more power in the midrange :P

A bit hard to tell if ive gained any top end but as I said I’m pretty sure ive grabbed midrange torque. It will be interesting to se the Dyno results.

All I can say is seriously forget getting raped buying Splitfires and try Yellow Jackets

Might be $1200 from nissan but they are (tonight) $143.11 shipped to Sydney each from RHDjapan. Im im for new coils and I wont be buying anything other then OEM.

:) Thats still around $860/set. Too much $$..

your group buy thread has disappeared. Whats happened? Is performance-wise still the guys to deal with for these?

Im pretty sure Performancewise is the only distributor for the Yellow Jackets.

Put in my Yellow Jackets and NGK Iridiums lastnight. Absolute bitch of a job cause I've never removed/re-installed the plumbing to the intake manifold before...nothing seemed to want to go back together again. And I had some trouble bolting one or two of the coils in (mounting holes weren't lining up).

Nonetheless, they work a treat. Engines feels a bit smoother and I haven't had any misses so far (that said, I haven't had much of a chance to visit the red line yet).

i got mine off performance wise, delivered on Tuesday... haven't had a chance to put them in yet. They look and feel like a quality product tho.

Edited by SkyHi_33
Put in my Yellow Jackets and NGK Iridiums lastnight. Absolute bitch of a job cause I've never removed/re-installed the plumbing to the intake manifold before...nothing seemed to want to go back together again. And I had some trouble bolting one or two of the coils in (mounting holes weren't lining up).

Nonetheless, they work a treat. Engines feels a bit smoother and I haven't had any misses so far (that said, I haven't had much of a chance to visit the red line yet).

Paul from Performance-Wise was nice enough to notice my post here and contact me directly regarding my trouble installing one of the coil packs. I explained to him that it was just one of the holes that wouldn't line up on one of the coils...and that whether this is a fault in the plastic mount on the coil or my engine's coil bracket, it was no big deal because I just used the third hole instead (Series 2 coil packs have 3 mounting holes) which worked fine. Impressive to see a company willing to chase up post-sale customer satisfaction...bravo Paul :)

Edited by Birds

Received and installed a set of JJR 'red' coil packs over the weekend and re-checked 0.7 gap on Iridium plugs - she's all good again and not misfiring at all up to 8K. OEM's just had enough and were on the way out.

Now to see how long these JJR's last!

:(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...