Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 812
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

luck, boy did we need some. a mad scramble to get car ready, and i know well that its the worst way to prepare for an event.

Saturday we had the car wheel aligned and made all the tin-work. Monday night we fitted the tin-work, made gear shifter and mounted handbrake lever, also made and fitted rear lexcen window.

tuesday organised fuel and some minor stuff and then took it too dyno. All looking good at this point.

When atempting to tune found that ECU was locked accidently and can only be unlocked by the persons software who locked it. After a few hours of trying to get around this problem we were left with no option but too leave it, get the ECU unlocked in the morning and then bring the car back up to tune.

After getting home at 1 and back up at 630 for the past 3 days i was shot. So up to sydney we drive again and have the car on the dyno by 9. after 8 hours of tuning and software downloads etc etc we got the car to run at about 80%. We called it a day at 6pm. 7 hours late for my track day lol. But more than happy as Yavus from Unigroup after hours of stuffing around with the HP tuner software broke its back and made real progress with the tune.

The car was making 302Kw @ 7000rpm at the tyres when we finished. He thinks its got a little bit left in it and some fine tuning to finish.

The car sounded strong in the end and was crazy to drive as i got to give it a skid in the car-park.

Huge thanks to The boys at Unigroup for a massive effort, as well as my brother and brother in-law who

travelled up and down with me. Also Ian for sticking around and helping out on tuesday night.

hope to have the tune finished in the next 2 weeks in order for the SAU track day.

Good luck today Stu!

Hope all goes well.

Hey Stu,

was sorry to hear you couldnt get out to Oran Park yesterday, but glad its almost all sorted!

Good to see Yavuz got it sorted too!

Cant wait to see it in action mate!

nice one mate. nothing ever goes perfectly but those problems are only minor. and one missed trackday is no biggie.

mmm 300 @ 7 will be some serious fun. what are the ratios like in the box that's behind it?

Hey Stuart is the rumour correct that you are chasing more killer wasps so that Bumble Bee will behave like a real "sprint car" and lift the front wheels off the ground under acceleration?

luck, boy did we need some. a mad scramble to get car ready, and i know well that its the worst way to prepare for an event.

Saturday we had the car wheel aligned and made all the tin-work. Monday night we fitted the tin-work, made gear shifter and mounted handbrake lever, also made and fitted rear lexcen window.

tuesday organised fuel and some minor stuff and then took it too dyno. All looking good at this point.

When atempting to tune found that ECU was locked accidently and can only be unlocked by the persons software who locked it. After a few hours of trying to get around this problem we were left with no option but too leave it, get the ECU unlocked in the morning and then bring the car back up to tune.

After getting home at 1 and back up at 630 for the past 3 days i was shot. So up to sydney we drive again and have the car on the dyno by 9. after 8 hours of tuning and software downloads etc etc we got the car to run at about 80%. We called it a day at 6pm. 7 hours late for my track day lol. But more than happy as Yavus from Unigroup after hours of stuffing around with the HP tuner software broke its back and made real progress with the tune.

The car was making 302Kw @ 7000rpm at the tyres when we finished. He thinks its got a little bit left in it and some fine tuning to finish.

The car sounded strong in the end and was crazy to drive as i got to give it a skid in the car-park.

Huge thanks to The boys at Unigroup for a massive effort, as well as my brother and brother in-law who

travelled up and down with me. Also Ian for sticking around and helping out on tuesday night.

hope to have the tune finished in the next 2 weeks in order for the SAU track day.

Stu mate no need to thank me, i was just so gutted for you champ!! So happy you got there in the end, allbeit 7 hours too late :blink:

You have built an absolute awesome machine mate, it looks a million dollars, goes like a bullet and the sound of the LS1 thru your side pipes.... well it makes me do funny things in my pants!!! Pure pure horn!!!! :blush:

I do hope you can make it to SAU OP GP day, really cant wait to see/hear that thing down the straight!

I may even setup my camera and do some laps behind you for some footage of the beast.... but not for too long, cant let this yellow beast beat the failvia for too long!!!! :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was using the wiring diagram I have So 12.74V is coming into the rear Fuel Pump relay as I measured.  When I turn the key to ON im getting 0.6V to the Fuel Pump plug; which i assume is backfeed voltage and doesnt include the 12V from ignition power.  The rear relay is working and being triggered.  From the diagram I clearly see the rear relay 80 = Rear Relay going into the Body/H loom (R-27) 27 = Fuel Pump plug going into the Body/H loom (T-20) 40 = Short Connector (R-27) I'm reading 12.74V on the blue/black wire which is the power for the Fuel Pump   From this diagram I can see the Ignition relay goes into the front and up to the ignition  2 = Fuel Pump Relay <1M> (R-27) 37 = ING Relay <1M> I started from the pump using this reference Which the way I read it (referencing Nissan wiring color codes) is: Pin Wire Color Function 1 B/P (Black/Pink) Ground 2 L/W (Blue/White)        ECU Trigger 3 SB (Sky Blue) Fuel Pump 5 L/B (Blue/Black) 12V Constant Tested SB to SB on Fuel Pump for continuity - confirmed Tested negative on Fuel Pump to 12V battery and L/B - confirmed 12V Pulled the relay putting 12V between Pin 1 & 2 and testing continuity on Pin 3 & 4 - confirmed relay   So that has me looking at this part of the circuit to understand whats happening here...and im still confused. From best I can tell; the disconnect is back to my previous diagram; between Ignition Relay and Fuel Pump Relay...which yet again; afaik is where the immobiliser should.    Thats what I was trying to explain to GTSboy; im not trying to fix it myself; yet I seem to have to get a Masters in Electrical Engineering (while im busy doing my actual job of DevOps & Cloud Engineering) somehow.  I just wanted more expert opinions; or more so that what I tested is correct and proves it to something around that area; to go back to the alarm tech (for a 3rd time) that he needs to fix it. He keeps telling me its not the alarm. He lives on the complete other side of the city so i understand not wanting to make a trip but as I said before if its the alarm it should be up to him to fix it. But he's adament its not; even though I pointed out the FP was immobilised through the original alarm. To my mind; it seems that the ECU is sending the signal; but the ignition is not getting 12V down the line.       
    • Maybe also really stiffly sprung track cars. Get the inside wheel up in a corner and all the fun stops. Also me sometimes (rarely) when I have to stand on the brake to convince the diff to drive the wheel that is still on the ground when I'm trying to diagonally get over severe driveway entrance, etc.
    • I feel like I'm missing something. You had an authorised installer come out and install a new alarm. Post install the car doesn't start, and you aren't getting the installer back to fix what they did wrong?
    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
×
×
  • Create New...