Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok I was driving out tonight and the compass works BUT it was off by 90 degree...

For example if I am facing South, it will point West, if I am facing east, it wlil point South....

How do I fix this... anyone know if there is a 'sensor' box under the dash that I can perhaps turn sideways 90 degree to fix it?

Easily fixed...

drive Sideways, come on Rianto... think logically man.

It says something here about the tilt angle or dip, and as you progress further into the northern or southern hemisphere the magnetic field will point partially downwards....

So I guess if they set it up to take into account this dip in the northern hemisphere, it would be doing the opposite of what adjustment would be needed in the southern hemisphere.

I had mine up the last night and it was off exactly 180 degrees, that is heading North it pointed to South, heading East it pointed to West, heading West pointed to East. I would think if someone were changing the software it would be fairly easy to swap N and S, and W and E? or maybe turn or flip the unit it is in 180 degrees?

I'm in Perth...

Hi guys... any word/update on the jap to english conversion yet?

On a related note can i just clarify a few things as i'm looking at buying a 350gt in the next few weeks.

I understand that the gps isnt going to be converted, my main concerns are the computer on the premium.

From this thread am i right to assume that the conversion is only planned for the series 1 350gt.

Is there any language conversion done at all on later series??

obviously if late model 350's have no translation planned/possible then i should be looking at a nice condition series 1.

thanks for the help.

If you look a few pages back -Programmer is finalizing software for models up to 10/2004. But depending on demand may look at models thereafter.

Hi guys... any word/update on the jap to english conversion yet?

On a related note can i just clarify a few things as i'm looking at buying a 350gt in the next few weeks.

I understand that the gps isnt going to be converted, my main concerns are the computer on the premium.

From this thread am i right to assume that the conversion is only planned for the series 1 350gt.

Is there any language conversion done at all on later series??

obviously if late model 350's have no translation planned/possible then i should be looking at a nice condition series 1.

thanks for the help.

If you look a few pages back -Programmer is finalizing software for models up to 10/2004. But depending on demand may look at models thereafter.

I've read through the entire thread, and it looks like the programmer has been finalising the software for quite some time.

As stated, the reason for my interest is that I'm looking to buy a 350GT, and I'm trying to balance the compatibility of a language conversion with getting the newest model possible.

get the newest model possible no question about that. If the language conversion comes through treat it as a bonus no biggie. I've lived with the Jap writings for close to a year now...keeps its import authenticity :D

+1

Got my navi orginal dvds back today -Compass is spot on ! Sounds silly, but I hope people understand "True North"--this why some might think its about 90' out. Also I notice there are several settings (dont underastand them all yet) where you can fix a position and compass adjusts to N,s,e,w of that postion.

But if you check the GPS menu it always is reflects car postion to true north. Boy I dig that groovy japanese voice on the navi also.

The below explains true north from magnetic north. Basically True north is geographical north which is north pole. Whereas magnetic north is effected by the earths magnetic field and axis - is near canada.

http://academic.brooklyn.cuny.edu/geology/...a/magnetic.html

Sorry to complicate things when I posted prev. I meant to add that people often refer to North as the northern part of the city/state rather than either of the above.

I was surprised by the talking too! It was on the first (top button) (mine 11/05 model). Also noticed when you press ETC options it talks when navi disc is in. (instead of chimes when not). Will have to tie my borthers japanese partner in the seat and get her to translate one day !.

The below explains true north from magnetic north. Basically True north is geographical north which is north pole. Whereas magnetic north is effected by the earths magnetic field and axis - is near canada.

http://academic.brooklyn.cuny.edu/geology/...a/magnetic.html

Sorry to complicate things when I posted prev. I meant to add that people often refer to North as the northern part of the city/state rather than either of the above.

I was surprised by the talking too! It was on the first (top button) (mine 11/05 model). Also noticed when you press ETC options it talks when navi disc is in. (instead of chimes when not). Will have to tie my borthers japanese partner in the seat and get her to translate one day !.

Japanese Partner of your brother and she hasn't translated yet?

What's wrong with ya?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...