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Looks like both of my cars have pressure switch issues. The R32 GTR has 18 flashes on the ATTESSA controller which is "ETS pressure switch circuit". The 4WD light is intermittent, and often just restarting the car clears it. There is an $300 replacement option https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/285675135148?itmmeta=01HXN3YKRGKQ08GRZ5KFKKZWJT&hash=item428390a0ac:g:6CcAAOSwWxBltMEG so if it becomes a permanent issue and I can confirm that the switch is the issue, i have a solution. The NM35 is reporting C1208, and disconnecting the switch causes the 4WD light to go away. Translating from the Japanese shop manual "when the pressure is reduced to 2.6MPa (377 psi) or less: conduction occurs when the pressure increases to 3.8MPa (550 psi) or less: conduction is present. Reference: • Immediately after the E-TS actuator motor stops, the pressure inside the accumulator is high and there is no continuity." Not sure how good the translation is but from what i can deduce this means the switch is normally closed (NC) and as the pressure builds from 0 to 550 psi the switch stays closed, then opens and 550 psi. As the pressure drops from 550 psi to 377 psi the switch stays open then closes again at 377 psi. Is that how these things work? These pressures are a lot higher than the R32 ("control pressure 0-228 psi") but i'm hoping i can find a generic switch (like they've done for the R32) to use as a replacement. Maybe something like https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/355586397452?epid=1676016964&itmmeta=01HXN534AF22ACTG6TGDDQGEQ7&hash=item52ca99d50c:g:mAEAAOSw8ilmBcMh&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8LtWdNlWHgyJ%2F3cbw25S2A1lde3qBi3fJii4T3lQavCz4kpqiD42SmBa4FocMvXCjcxiowHjb8vZ8%2BWxc53BkHv781tkStSnCDaenfGKC3bIp0keK20dfsn9LoPa3TfqaEmAydqqyKobgTdXsGGzsl%2BRjOVGuD8OIpOv%2B0wMl7aUtHg0iJtojbtzA%2BRS8Xfm8Ufjuvz4niwrqglAXFUbkL6J%2FGuHPeeECZhLBBN3iNM1Swl94Fv5zE95YK%2B5O6dxDN1ySNOjdMxkA8yaprbuwRHFQv1nlGh%2FWjekj6EUFR2%2FO4HTsoKtSAkY0Mj1w1uf1w%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6zFjKXtYw but with a lower close pressure, and thread adapter if required. Am i dreaming? -
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That is a dead f**king short of B+ to ground. Scary.
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10-15 years ago, the answer would always be buy a good import motor and so many machine shops make.a hash of an engine rebuild, or they think they are some sort of RB magicians and want 40k. Now as others have stated, you are buying a VERY old used motor. So rebuild is the correct answer. Just finding a machine shop that will both do a good job and charge you a regular price is now your challenge. -
By SLVRBAKSLPZ · Posted
SOLVED simple solution. After wrecking by brain, i ended up jist giggling everything i could. At one point last week I noticed that the left side signals shut off for a split second. I wasn't sure what triggered it. I spent time cleaning up wiring, re-wrapping and adding DT connectors to my IC7 stuff. I bought a new hazard and stalk hoping that would work. The stalk did fix some function issue but not the steady on. Hazard didn't fix it. I started just tracing everything. Once I got to the engine bay I notice my engine harness was droopy. I started moving it and the signals flickered. Come to find out that the starter + turned off sigmals when it grounded out on a bolt I have a Wiring Specialties pro harness so I'm not sure if this is specific to it. So it should work proper once I hook everything up 20240511_190033.mp4
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