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I pulled apart my dash today and found that I have the R-spec over ride but the switch has been cut off.

Can anyone suggest what would be a suitable button ans how would it get wired? There are 4 wires in the lead to the switch (or where it once was) and they are coloured, Red, Black, White & Yellow.

Cheers

Andy

The unit will be permanently in overide mode without the button connected, they are sold in japan with or without button, optional.

The unit will be permanently in overide mode without the button connected, they are sold in japan with or without button, optional.

I wish you were right. Unfortunatley not over riding anymore. Chris has advise that when the buttin is cut off they are stuffed.

Cheers

Andy

I have one of the Spec R units (thanks to Chook) the "button" is on a separate loom on mine and can be unplugged from the unit, then it will work all the time... Can you unplug yours or is it hard wired in?

I have one of the Spec R units (thanks to Chook) the "button" is on a separate loom on mine and can be unplugged from the unit, then it will work all the time... Can you unplug yours or is it hard wired in?

I like your thinking!! I'll try this and keep my fingers crossed it works.

Cheers

Andy

not that i get a picture at the moment until i have the money to buy a tuner from chook but i can have my tv on and listen to channel 9 when im driving. does this mean that i have one of those overide buttons. i dont have any sort of unusual button anywhere on the dash.

you can listen to sound on them. if you have SNOW whilst moving then you have a magic box in the car (or if I do the car it mysteriously works for some reason..) if not - no.

  • 2 weeks later...

Heya all, hopefully chook or someone else who has installed this unit may be able to help me.

I've run into some problems unfortunately. :D As I reported earlier, shortly after I had the unit installed, it lost all its stations after an auto search. Bummer, but a hit of the reset switch seemed to fix everything and it detected the stations no worries.

But a few weeks back I went on holidays up to nsw, and did a rescan because I was getting no signal in the middle of whoop whoop. I thought it might pick up a diferrent reginal station. But, it scanned nothing, so I lost all previous stations. I didnt know if this was because there was no signal, or it needed resetting. Anyway, I didnt get round to rescanning until I got home, and still nothing came up. I tried the reset button, but it still didnt scan anything. :) So just today I have made some time to check the wiring, I thought perhaps there was a short in the ariel connections perhaps seeing as the center core is very thin and at risk of bending up on insertion (keep mind out of the gutter ppls). But the came out looking fine.

I did some checks with a multimeter, and there was no shorting present between the centre core and outer braided lines. I tried one ariel at a time, still nothing scans.

I checked the voltages, the red input is at 12.3 volts, fine, the yellow is at 11.9 volts, a little under but the should be fine. However, the blue line which is supposed to supply the ariels with 12 volts according to the instructions, is only putting out 8.1 volts.

The 8.1 volts is only present when the plug is in the asuka unit, so the voltage drop is occering within the unit.

What I want to know is, has anyone checked the voltage of the blue 12v line to the ariels? are you supposed to be getting 12volts?

Do you think it would be detrimental to just run the 12 volts from the yellow line into the ariels, bypassing the asuka unit to ensure 12volts?

Any help would be fantastic.

Cheers,

Jeff

Actually, I did a recheck. When the blue 12v ariel power wire is connected to the ariel loom, it is showing 8.1 volts. However, after I de-soldered it, the blue wire shows 11.9 volts. So there is a voltage drop of 3.8 volts when the ariels are connected. Can anybody check theres please?

I should also mention that the unit is using both inputs 1 and 2, being a dvd player system (pal) in the back seat for the kids, although I'm only running the audio not video through the unit so it can use the cars stereo. Input 2 is running a games system for the back screens also. Both of which seems to be running fine, not a worry in the world. The unit also supplies the tv signal to the back screens, which are pal, so the means the front screen is unwatchable if the kids want to watch tv, but thats fine as im driving and only used the tv when parked.

Cheers,

Jeff

Jeff,

checked mine, also goes to 8V when connected to aerials. (which I suppose indicates that amps are working)

Which makes me think 2 things:

You have a continuity problem with your aerials or a problem with your box. Ive had correspondence with another member who said he had lost reception because the aerials had lost continuity where the coax plugs into the factory window aerials at the glass, something else to check. I can send you the 'stick on' aerials to help diagnose your prob, ie see if your aerials are the prob, or if you have them, you can try connecting them to some home tv 'rabbit ears' eg. If no luck then I can send you another box.

The other thing is that the voltage drop might be a sign that the unit doesnt have the grunt to power 2 amplifiers, so we should all be running the amps through a relay (which ill do soon). I remember when I was testing the factory amps, I got a voltage of around 10-11V when they were on and connected through the factory tuner. Any sparkies out there confirm that this is a sign of big current draw ?

Anyway firstly try connecting the amps straight to a 12V and see if you get reception.

Let me know results. (ps did you reset the country to OZ when you reset unit ?)

Cheers, thanks heaps chook. I've connected the ariel amps up to a seperate 12v accesories supply, and the voltage in them stays at around 11.98volts now :blink: So, I guess supplying two amps with power is a tad too much for the unit, its a simple bypass tho, so please anyone who reads this don't be put off. Its an excellent unit. You may find a slight improvement if you wire yours up like mine too chook bypassing the 12v outs from the asuka. Maybe mine was just a tad too low to get them working optimally, and reception is pretty crumby in my area at the best of times. I'll be able to see is there's some improvements in a day or two, I'm just happy its working again. *Does a happy dance*

Thanks heaps,

Jeff

Cheers, thanks heaps chook. I've connected the ariel amps up to a seperate 12v accesories supply, and the voltage in them stays at around 11.98volts now :blink: So, I guess supplying two amps with power is a tad too much for the unit, its a simple bypass tho, so please anyone who reads this don't be put off. Its an excellent unit. You may find a slight improvement if you wire yours up like mine too chook bypassing the 12v outs from the asuka. Maybe mine was just a tad too low to get them working optimally, and reception is pretty crumby in my area at the best of times. I'll be able to see is there's some improvements in a day or two, I'm just happy its working again. *Does a happy dance*

Thanks heaps,

Jeff

So, you got all your stations back again ?

The problem with digital boxes is when you change regions, the rescan clears your previous channels, but its only a 2min job I guess.

Ill definitely use a relay for the amps, save having them on all the time. Ill send out a PM to those who bought with factory amps just to update them.

Yep, all stations back, and from a quick cruise to pick the kids up, much better reception than it was giving before. The line I've tapped into was already relay switched for the rear dvd player, so, it was really a 5 minute job in the end once it was sorted and a much healthier voltage is shared by all. Typical Stagea, even the tv ariels are a super hyped up version!! :blink:

I posted a question a few weeks ago as my switch had been cut off on my TV over ride during compliance.

With Chook's briiance he has found me a solution. For any one else with this problem, this is the solution;

In the lead there are 4 wires. 1)Black 2)Yellow 3)Red 4)White.

The switch is actually a momentary switch and is not an on/off switch.

The black (1) and yellow (2) wires are connected together and the red (3) wire is momentarily connected to the black/yellow join to switch the unit between the over ride and no over ride.

I believe the white (4) wire is to do with the illumination of the switch.

Thanks Chook for your help with this.

Cheers

Andy :down:

Hi All

I have An M35, tv has sound but no picture, chook do you sell the components to make the Tv show picture? If so i would be interested to buy.

Anyone had the center dash out on an M35. Ive had the consul out but the panel covering the radio up to the TV is tight, some tips on its removal would be appreciated.

Thanks

Murray

Hi All

I have An M35, tv has sound but no picture, chook do you sell the components to make the Tv show picture? If so i would be interested to buy.

Anyone had the center dash out on an M35. Ive had the consul out but the panel covering the radio up to the TV is tight, some tips on its removal would be appreciated.

Thanks

Murray

he has the tuner for it. I have the leads you need to make it stay working.

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