Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, does anyone knows how much oil need for engine gear box and diff in R33 Rb25det? and what fluid is better for gear box?

thanks in advanced

can i use nissan Genuine DIFF OIL HYPOID SUPER GL-5 or DIFF OIL HYPOID LSD GL-5 in gear box or those fluids are for just differential???

thanks in advanced

Edited by guricha

Good lubricant is lifestyle lubricant, comes free in boxes of 12; if its good enough for little johnny, its good enough for the box.

lolz na, ill vouch for the castrol tranzmax z though, i use it in my r34 gtr transfer case and it fantastic. For my gearbox i use v160

  • 2 weeks later...
Good lubricant is lifestyle lubricant, comes free in boxes of 12; if its good enough for little johnny, its good enough for the box.

lolz na, ill vouch for the castrol tranzmax z though, i use it in my r34 gtr transfer case and it fantastic. For my gearbox i use v160

'lil johnny' must be doing something wrong if he needs 'lifestyle lubricants' ;)

  • 3 weeks later...

sydneykid:

If i were to buy 3 x 4L Redline Lightweight shock proof oil, could i do an R33 GTR gearbox, transfer case, and both diffs?

Is this oil suitable for all 4??I

want nothing but the best for my beast :)

Cheers.

  • 1 month later...
For a sticky.............................

What we use;

4WD Transfer = Castrol Transmax Z

Automatic Transmission = Castrol Transmax Z

Manual Transmission = Castrol Syntrans 75W-85 or Castrol Syntrax 75W-90

Differential = Castrol SAF-XA

Cheers

Gary

Hi SK

I've had a 33 for a couple years now and everything i've had to do to my car, i've been able to figure out from your posts. I'm sure you hear it a lot but just wanted to say thanks for the knowledge - you make dumb a$$e$ like me be able to work on their cars.

cheers mate

Hurf

  • 3 weeks later...

I just put the Redline Lightweight Shockproof Gear Oil in my R34 GTT. I only needed the one bottle, is this right?

Also is this oil a good oil to be using in the gearbox?? And is there any different weights available for this oil or just the one?

I've been having a grinding noise when dropping down gears at higher revs eg. 60km/h into 2nd makes a grind, 110 into 4th grinds, 3rd grinds when I shift up from 2nd at higher revs...

I changed gear box oil to see if the problem would go away but it hasn't :S I think it may be clutch related though as the grind can be felt through the clutch pedal when releasing it and the gear engages.

Could it be the clutch or thrust bearing??

Any help would be awesome!!

i believe nissan say 7.5w/30 - where the f*ck you get 7.5 i have no idea...

Marcus, do you know about www.performancelub.com? if not, all the oils you'll ever need are there.

If the 26 sees mild track use, i'd go with a 10w40 (Royal Purple, Amsoil, Redline, German Castrol)

Street use i'd be more inclined to use an 0w or 5w. 5w30 is probably you're closest to the factory specs.

I'm running 5w30 Royal Purple at the moment.

  • 3 weeks later...

Manual Transmission = Castrol Syntrans 75W-85 or Castrol Syntrax 75W-90

Differential = Castrol SAF-XA

would castrol saf-xa be fine for r32 gtst diff??

thanx heaps been trying to find this sort of info

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...

In my R32 GTR, I've decided to run:

Gearbox: Redline Shockproof Lightweight

Front Diff: Redline Shockproof Lightweight

Transfer Case: Redline High Temp ATF

Rear Diff (LSD): Redline Gear Oil 75w90

gotta love www.performancelub.com

On a 4WD; I assume that there is a filler plug if I don't want to fill my transfer case from the shifter hole? Looking at the workshop manual it seems to be at the rear of the transfer case on the driver's side of the rear propeller shaft - is that right? Also, the service manual suggests that a sealant (Three Bond 1215 - genuine Nissan part KP610-00200) should be used when installing the drain plug - is this unnecessary? If it is necessary shoudl the same sealant be used when installing the drain plug into the gearbox as well? Thanks, Ben.

My mechanic (GTR specialist) is quite happy to do (bit reluctant) the gearbox and both diff fluids I've mentioned, but insists will only put in the genuine Nissan Matic-D ATF in the transfer case (I won't argue with him, he worked at a Nissan dealer for 7 years so I will go with what he says). Did alittle research into it and it seems most jap tuners say to only use the genuine Nissan Matic-D in the transfer cases. Then again it's suggested Matic-D is nothing more than Castrol ATF/Mercon IV.

I think this is a interesting read (copy and paste from elsewhere, Matic-D and the special powersteering fluid mentioned are the same part-number)

Have a document from Nissan NZ, which came from Mr.K.Shindo of Nissan Japan.

It outlines his thoughts on fluids that should not be replaced by aftermarket products.

1. Transfer case fluid

Nissan Matic D is strongly requested because high torque is applied to transfer unit.

2.. Transfer case (ATTESA E-TS-PRO Actuator) : It is not acceptable to use DEXRON III fluid.

> Only Nissan Power Steering Fluid Special use is required.

Today I received the technical information from our design department.

1. The difference between the DEXRON III and Nissan Power Steering Fluid Special

The viscosity characteristic of Power Steering Fluid Special is lower than that of ATF DEXRON III and the resistance to wear is also improved. Each viscosity is the same level at 100 deg.C and the former viscosity is designed to have the lower value for under 100 deg.C than the latter viscosity.

This characteristic is aimed to rotate an oil pump located in ATTESA PRO

actuator easily at the extremely low temperature (Around -30 deg.C or -40 deg.C)

2. What will happen if a customer puts DEXRON II or DEXRON III into the ATTESA PRO actuator reservoir in the trunk ?

The 4WD performance will be largely decreased at the low temperature because the viscosity value of DEXRON II or III is extremely high compared to that of Power Steering Fluid Special ;

As the rising characteristic of 4WD torque transfer becomes worse, it takes the longer time to transfer the driving torque to the front wheels. There is a possibility that the 4WD cannot be achieved in the worst case.

When I asked for fluid for my transfer case at Nissan in Rockdale (who proport to sell to imports and provide Nismo gear) I was told that any automatic transmission fluid would do. I asked abour gearbox oil, thy told me that they ony sell in quantities of 20 litres and did not have the specified viscosity.

Castrol recomend Castrol Transmax Z, so do Sydneykid and Duncan; just my two bob, but that'll do me!

Moodles 2; can your mechanic get 2 to 4 littres of Nissan Matic-D ATF or is he getting it in large quantites being a mechanic and all?

Moodles 2; can your mechanic get 2 to 4 littres of Nissan Matic-D ATF or is he getting it in large quantites being a mechanic and all?

My mechanic gets really good prices from the Nissan dealership he used to work at, I'm not sure how how many litres he got all I know he priced it for me as $50, all I know it's enough to cover the ATTESSA (0.5l if duncan is right) and transfer case (1.5l), so I guess 2-3litres.

edit: plus he owns a R32 GTR as well so probably brought for his supply as well.

Your comment about needing 1.5 litres got me to thinking as Duncan has suggested that the transfer case takes 2.0 litres. I looked in the workshop manual and it suggests 1.8 litres. For the record I put 2.0 litres in mine last night (I could not get the filler plug out and thought it would be just as good to pour in the exact quantity). I didn't notice any real problems today; but I guess the difference between 1.8 litres and 2.0 litres is relatively small!

For fluids the manual recommends

Transfer case (page CH-59) - 1.8 litres of Nissanmatic fluid D [approx. 1.8 litres]

Manual transmission (page CH-23) - Nissan gear oil MP-G special GL-4 #75-90 [approx 4.1 lites]

Front final drive (page CH-125) - Nissan gear oil hypoid GL-5 85W-90 [approx. 1.0 litre]

Rear final drive (page CH-125) - Nissan gear oil hypoid LSD GL-5 80W-90 [approx. 1.5 litres]

I have no personal opion as to the products and quantities; but I thought I would provide reference to the manual to round out the discussion.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • Yeah good luck out there! Will be good to see a mighty GTST going harder than the GTRs
    • i will be there 😁
    • Hello!  i just finished manual swaping my r34 skyline with a r33 rb20de box(RB71C)box  When the car is running it squeaks crazy loud and it was smoking from the gearbox area. The gearbox is fine it was tested. The clutch slave cylinder seems like it doesn't fully releases the clutch. I want to ask if this noise is from the throw out bearing or could it be the clutch assembly or disk att.xFliq87Gzw6kImKBVqDebXkj0fBqymk0JaYeP3_3SlM.mp4
×
×
  • Create New...