Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

- Very clean black R32 (gts-t or gts) on Yarra Boulevard - The guys were eyeballing my car :down: - the same car was later involved in an accident - a cyclist ran into the back of them. Cyclist got cuts to the face as he went through the rear window.

I saw that on saturday too (detour on my way home from work), i was wondering what happened :D

+

saw a clean bayside blue 34 GTR at the front of doncaster autobarn yesterday

spotted a squashed black 32 on princess hwy this morning on my way in to work near huntingdale, sandwiched by two cars front and back with the authorities clearing traffic. nobody looked injured, apart from the cars :( hope everythings ok if you're on here.

it had standard plates WBW something i think and black rims to what i can recall...yes heading towards princess hwy turning left i think...

Yup, that's me, my rims are bronze not black by the way.

Yup, that's me, my rims are bronze not black by the way.

:( .. it was a quick glance since i was day dreaming and after you passed me i realised it was a gtr...lol...just managed to look at the plates to get some identity...lol...still didnt remember it well...lol..LOOKED GREAT!!!! :) from what i can recal...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope, I don't like the look of ND RF, or any ND really, I don't like their faces or arses, why, because of their "modern" lines, the NC, whilst "modernish" has a more rounded shape that I like Well, that's how my overly judgemental eyes see it anyway  
    • Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
    • I definitely know the first rule here, look first, ask second. I've seen many people get roasted 😂 I found a few diagrams for the RB, but I'm yet to come across one for the VQ. From what I have read, the pump gets the +12v along with the FPCM, and it's the negative wire that gets passed through the resistor to regulate the voltage. So I assume I can just ground the negative wire at the pump to eliminate the FPCM control. But I really wanted to see the VQ circuit diagram first to make sure I understood it correctly. Once the new pump is in I'll do some testing to see how it behaves, and in the meantime, I'll keep looking for a wiring diagram. Thanks for your help mate, your time is greatly appreciated.    
    • Maybe? I have the Supercheap ToolPro low thingo. It has a somewhat smaller diameter lifting "bowl" than you would expect on a workshop grade trolley jack, and a split rubber pad to suit that diameter. It clears the "N1" style skirts I have. Probably wouldn't if the jack's bowl and a suitably larger rubber block were in use. Having said that though.....you only need the rubber block to exist on the inner side of the pinchweld, so could carve away any rubber that fouled the skirt, leaving some there for "insurance" </simples>
    • I used to do that (sills with rubber jack block).. ... then I got side skirts, and there's no way for the jack to actually work there, the jack pad itself on the jack is too big. Is the answer to use a... smaller (?) jack? Hmmm.
×
×
  • Create New...