Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Just a quick one, you have a standard diff and a car that does mostly track days.

What is the best option to go for? My standard starts to open wheel and is hard to get some power down. I can get a rebuilt 1 way centre at a decent cost, but what do most people go for, for track days (not drift!)

Cheers,

Chris

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I found my shimmed up diff (added a single 1.2mm shim) was brilliant at Wakefield compared to the first time I went.

It actually began to open wheel towards the end of the day, and the difference was huge (the open wheeling was a result of the crownwheel bolts not being done up tight enough - this reduces preload on the shims - and take note that this was the result of human error, not a problem with shimming the diff). It was amazing how much longer you needed to wait when exiting a corner to get on the throttle when it was open wheeling.

It actually gave a really good perspective on just how much improvement it made in retrospect...

If you dont mind getting your hands dirty (its a bit of work to do), its a very very good value for money diff upgrade. $8 for shim, $20 - 30 for some new diff oil, locking diff for under $50 bucks... hard to beat :thumbsup:

Edited by swanny180

Cheers Luke!

Yeah thats one avenue for me to look into also!

So the 1.13 at wakie - that was with the shimmed diff? What times were you doing prior?

I know what you mean with the open wheeling and getting power down, but here comes a silly question....if it is more of a "locker", instead of open wheeling when putting power down, wouldn't the car more likely slide more if both wheels spin? Or with the locking, it helps give both wheels even power/traction down so it helps getting out of the corner better?

I need to do more research :) (diff's for dummies 101!)

1.5 way is the go. :) 2 way is acceptable too. you could get a second hand GTR diff (which are 2 way) quite cheap and buy the nismo clutch upgrade for it and have a basically brand new nismo 2 way for cheap.

comes down the preference, a 2 way will obviously lock up both on accel and decel so it makes the diff movement very predictable when coming on and off the throttle, hence why its popular for drift, this unfortunately means that coming in, middle and out of the corner the rear wheels arnt going to want turn at different rates on either acceleration or deceleration, this causes some understeer, especially coming into the corner and on the tighter corners. 1.5way allows u to feather off the throttle and open up the diff meaning it can turn in easier, but when u put ur foot back down it locks up again and allows u to get the power down. for me the 1.5way is preferable, but as i said, its about preference.

would a shimmed diff chirp and sound like the diff is gonna break apart like a locker when doing low speed turns or a U turn??

do 1.5/2 ways have this problem as well or are they normal ?

Edited by whyte

My stock 2way GTR diff shudders while doing slow speed, tight, turns, more when its cold then when its warmed up.

If you shim it tighter than its going to do it even more, as in every turn it will skip a little bit and groan...but if you avoid tight turns on the street then you don't have to worry about it as much :).

Cheers nisskid :)

Also - my garage...unit complex and takes about 3 - 4 pt turn to get into my LUG - that would be pretty harsh in a 2 way yes?

very, not as bad as a locked diff, but bad. it will also wear ur tyres out a fair bit. thing is, even with a 1.5way, when doing a 3pt turn ur probably going to need to be on the throttle anyway, so ull need to accelerate then take ur foot off the throttle and then turn while ur coasting.

1 way is the best for reducing understeer under power if you can get one of those go for it.

I am using the standard 2 way gtr diff in the race car, it has been shimmed up so tight that I can hear it clunking around roundabouts at 50klm/h lol. goes brilliant on the track but there is a little understeer on turn in.

1,1.5 or 2 way. They are all the same under acceleration. Unless your car is badly set up it won't push too much on acceleration (talking rwd here). I'm not saying you won't have the odd corner exit understeer moment post apex, but it's generally corrected with a slight lift. Same for exit oversteer. It comes down to set up and throttle control.

Deceleration is where the differences start. If you're braking in a straight line, they are all much the same. You may feel a slight bit of understeer with a 1.5 and 2 way when you lift off the brake and turn (again set up dependent). I find that if you run a bit of toe out on the front it's not an issue, alternately trail brake. Or if you brake in a straight line, lift and turn in and it wants to go straight, dab the brake again and watch it turn.

If you are braking in a curve with a 1.5 or 2 way, you probably won't notice, but people watching may comment that you are braking slightly sideways. wakefield turn 2 with shit rubber is a really good example if you go wide at the kink. Botch a down shift in that situation and around you go if you aren't ready to catch it.

If you get a 1.5 or 2 way and set up your car accordingly they will be both be fine. If you are worried about shuddering on 3 point turns you may want to stick with a viscous :D You definitely don't want a nismo 1.5 way (not the pro), tightest diff eva!

I wouldn't bother with shiming the stock viscous, it's a short term solution, and it may as well be locked when it is doing it's job.

Honestly, what ever you get, you will drive around it. I would suggest a 1.5 way, but i know guys who are consistently quicker than i am who have 2 ways. I only suggest 1.5 way as it is the happy middle ground and can do both track and drift work well enough, where as the 1 way is a rubbish drift diff and the 2 way is a bit too tight on decel for track work

Dave,

Thanks for the reply mate, really appreciate it!

I'll certainly be looking into this more!!Im now not looking to do any more drift (cept for the SAU NSW Drift day in Oct?) Grip is where its at lol

Thanks mate!

i have a nismo 2 way in the silvia. you are welcome to test it out chubbs. it's a farkin pig of a thing around the streets. it clunks like buggery and sounds like your whole car is about to fall apart! or alternatively it will chirp tyres. BUT on the track it's awesome. very predictable which is exactly what you want. :down:

OK. What I understand to be the case.

Standard rear GT-R diff is a two way. But there can often be little or no pre load on the plates. Copnsequence being it can bag up easilly &then become next to impossible to reign in.

The Nismo 1.5 way LSD Pro is a tight, clunky diff. Mine is. The 0.5 component appears to be a misnomer. The 0.5 way is square.

The difference between a TT LSD Pro & an Lsd Pro is the ramp angle. Less aggressive on the TT. But you cannot get a TT for a GT-R.

I realise that may not be too helpfull for your car, but it may enlighten someone.

Edited by djr81

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...