Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Use BCPR7ES forget platinum plugs and tell your tuner to stop using BKR's in RB's.... they are 2.5mm shorter and only amplify ignition problems due to poor contact.

Hmm might give that a shot, taking the car back once I get the leak fixed, may swap out the plugs for some BCP's instead

Anyone think the PFR plugs are worth the investment?

  • Replies 895
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hmm might give that a shot, taking the car back once I get the leak fixed, may swap out the plugs for some BCP's instead

Anyone think the PFR plugs are worth the investment?

i usually have to swap em out for BCP's.

Hey Trent, have you ever tried, or know of anyone trying, the BUR9EQ plug in an RB?

Expensive for a street plug but if they'll work, they are a group 8 plug I think, so better for a track/drag machine.

thats a rotary plug from memory, on anything over 1.9bar or big hp i like to use the fine flush type electrodes heat ranges 8-10. (many advantages, i wont list) see pic

NGK%20Racing.jpg

Edited by URAS

Trent,

I was concerned with the BKR's due to them being 2.5mm shorter. I measured it all up and dummy fitted with the boot off - no issues with contact, the spring still compresses a lot.

Running bkr7e's i've ran up to 25psi and had no issues with my 300,000km+ 17yr old Nissan coils.

I previously ran BCPR6E's but they were coming out looking too hot. 7's look just right for the power its making.

I've also ran a supposive race NGK copper plug forget the part number. The electrode was a flush type. If anything it felt like it lost a little low/mid range until it got up on boost.

Must admit the only reason I went with BKR7E's is I was unable to find BCPR7E's anywhere :(

Its all in the head but I swear the V-Grooves (non-S) work/feel a little better. :P

Edited by TheRogue

So here is the litmus test, outside of the Newcastle and associatred Godzilla guys who is installing, running and happy with these ecus?

I am considering it but very happy with the Power Fc but too cheap to buy a boost controller which is making me look at the all up cost of one of these.

Just dont want to fall victim of a NSW version of the Perth Wolf ECU saga where it seemed ppl were pushing an agenda

Just a wild question, its probably been asked before, but i couldnt be bothered reading through the 20+ pages.

Does anyone know if there are any decent tuners for the vipec here in Auckland, NZ??

and roughly how much for drive in drive out?

Torque performance are Link dealers. I am sure Soichi will be able to tune them.
So here is the litmus test, outside of the Newcastle and associatred Godzilla guys who is installing, running and happy with these ecus?

I am considering it but very happy with the Power Fc but too cheap to buy a boost controller which is making me look at the all up cost of one of these.

Just dont want to fall victim of a NSW version of the Perth Wolf ECU saga where it seemed ppl were pushing an agenda

If you are happy with your Power FC and have time on your hands build yourself a Jaycar IEBC - I had some difficulty building mine (not very electronic) but once installed it is great to use.
So here is the litmus test, outside of the Newcastle and associatred Godzilla guys who is installing, running and happy with these ecus?

I am considering it but very happy with the Power Fc but too cheap to buy a boost controller which is making me look at the all up cost of one of these.

Just dont want to fall victim of a NSW version of the Perth Wolf ECU saga where it seemed ppl were pushing an agenda

Autoworx WA...Glen 'lumpy' Cambell...Brett West in Adelaide...JPC in Victoria...URAS in Victoria...ESP in ACT....Mercury Motorsport in QLD...Insight in Sydney...just to name a few. And thats only Australia...they are sold all over the world and are very popular in the US and starting to take off in the UK.

No agenda Roy...im no dealer or reseller of this product...its a great ecu actually....I did want to be a dealer but Ray had his dealer network already set-up from the Autronic days...No conspiracy theory etc. Do you think id risk my car, my reputation and other peoples cars on crappy hardware?

Edited by DiRTgarage
So here is the litmus test, outside of the Newcastle and associatred Godzilla guys who is installing, running and happy with these ecus?

I am considering it but very happy with the Power Fc but too cheap to buy a boost controller which is making me look at the all up cost of one of these.

Just dont want to fall victim of a NSW version of the Perth Wolf ECU saga where it seemed ppl were pushing an agenda

I have a V88 installed in my R33 GTR, has not missed a beat since it got tuned in August last year! Installed and tuned by Brett West in Adelaide.

Mike

I have the V44 plug in for an R32 GTR. Installed by Shaun @ Boostworx here in Adelaide.

Very happy with it - runs very smooth, off boost response is better than my Power FC. Only just got it installed and have an intermediate run in tune so haven't explored all the features of the ECU yet, but looking forward to when I do!

So here is the litmus test, outside of the Newcastle and associatred Godzilla guys who is installing, running and happy with these ecus?

I am considering it but very happy with the Power Fc but too cheap to buy a boost controller which is making me look at the all up cost of one of these.

Just dont want to fall victim of a NSW version of the Perth Wolf ECU saga where it seemed ppl were pushing an agenda

They're selling like hotcakes over here in WA and haven't heard anything bad so far, I will be ditching the Haltech in my Stag soon and going with the Vipec.

Not sure on whether to get a Vipec for the 32.. thinking of going a remap again (or Nistune nowadays) until I max out the z32 afm, then probably look at a Vipec to run the 30.

upgrading the ecu in our circuit gtr from Power FC to Vi-PEC pnp...we will be tuning on the same dyno so will post up some overlay's when finished.

not to be smart but there should be no differrence in power, both do the same thing. I have matched the PFC, LINK, MOTEC install on GTR's with the emanage ultimate...... takes longer to get the final result with the EMU but both graphs are identical. Its the other niceties of the better ecu's which make it a good upgrade.

They're selling like hotcakes over here in WA and haven't heard anything bad so far, I will be ditching the Haltech in my Stag soon and going with the Vipec.

Not sure on whether to get a Vipec for the 32.. thinking of going a remap again (or Nistune nowadays) until I max out the z32 afm, then probably look at a Vipec to run the 30.

why ditch the Haltech? if its a e11v2 i cant see the point... sure the software is clunky but they tune up good.

Edited by URAS

Maybe I don't know enough about the Haltech (I didn't put it in, and yes it's an e11v2) but I don't think it's talking to the auto properly, 1-2 shifts in particular, and high rpm and WOT really doesn't want to go into gear, if I back off ever so slightly OR let it hit the limiter once, in she goes..

Was talking with Autoworx and he said he should be able to get the Vipec shifting the auto to within 90% of factory shifts..

so how much does a vipec v44/88 cost ? are they AFM or MAP based and if the latter, does the r34 gtt require any extra sensors ?

Vi-PEC skyline plug-in is $1750 and has the map sensor built in. It runs all the factory sensors and AFM support is due on the next firmware upgrade.

Edited by DiRTgarage

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
×
×
  • Create New...