Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

But he has already spent money on having the single turbo changed and tuned and still isn't happy with it, so his next option is to look at the engine capacity.

Personally I wouldn't be changing the turbo charger at the same time, I would just do the stroker and see how it drives after that

I thought he bought it like that. Regardless he should experience different setups before he makes his decision not rely on someone else's preference. He might decide to go back to twins, never know?

My 32 still is a 2.6

Yep mate, I'm the one making a fool of my self :thumbsup:

Grow up mate.

All I am doing is suggesting he experiences different setups before he makes his decision because obviously he hasn't and the last thing he should do is rely on advice based on egotistical bravado some members show. Go and have a cold shower.

I thought he bought it like that. Regardless he should experience different setups before he makes his decision not rely on someone else's preference. He might decide to go back to twins, never know?

he bought it with a trust t78 and changed it to a more responsive pt6262 but still wants more, so capacity increase would be the next step and a pt6262 has been proven to match the -9s down low but walk away from them up high

XGTRX in regards to your uneducated opinion I have driven both a built and stock 2.6 and larger capacity RB's. Once you get into a stroked RB that's actually set up properly - holy shit hold on to your panties. Yes the 2.6 was way ahead of it's time (25 years ago) but a lot has changed since then. I suggest perhaps a bit more reading is in order..

he bought it with a trust t78 and changed it to a more responsive pt6262 but still wants more, so capacity increase would be the next step and a pt6262 has been proven to match the -9s down low but walk away from them up high

On a 26 or stroker.

HI Guys, had way too much to drink , but here we go :)

All good, if I cannot get the R34 to go better than my 350Gt TT I will sell it and cop the loss. The 350 is a very enjoyable ride except it is Auto/(tiptronic is a waste of space)and the only reason I bought an auto was if we went out the missus could drive home,after I put the APS Twin Turbo system on she only drove it one more time, she would not drive it again after putting her foot down, scared the crap out of her, now, no missus, so got a manual ASAP = R34GTR and what a gutless piece of shit it was up to 5k,then mad, much better now and I want more = 3.2 stroker.

I thank you all for your past advice , now I need advice on who to get to build it. I need the job done in one shop, I need to drop the car off and pick it up finished, pay the bill and drive back to the bush.

Apart from saying "do not do it" , any free advice welcome :)

Doesn't matter anyway. He can experience a -9 e85 setup easily and go back to twins if he chooses. Not a big deal. He need to experience it first though. Anyway hope it all works out for him. The more setups he looks at the clearer his decision will be.

HI Guys, had way too much to drink , but here we go :)

All good, if I cannot get the R34 to go better than my 350Gt TT I will sell it and cop the loss. The 350 is a very enjoyable ride except it is Auto/(tiptronic is a waste of space)and the only reason I bought an auto was if we went out the missus could drive home,after I put the APS Twin Turbo system on she only drove it one more time, she would not drive it again after putting her foot down, scared the crap out of her, now, no missus, so got a manual ASAP = R34GTR and what a gutless piece of shit it was up to 5k,then mad, much better now and I want more = 3.2 stroker.

I thank you all for your past advice , now I need advice on who to get to build it. I need the job done in one shop, I need to drop the car off and pick it up finished, pay the bill and drive back to the bush.

Apart from saying "do not do it" , any free advice welcome :)

All the best of luck mate. Before you take the plunge do yourself a favour and experience a couple of setups so you know exactly what you are going to get, how it's going to drive and other things that may be important to you. And make sure you investigate the reliability of your setup esp driveline. Good luck mate.

XGTRX in regards to your uneducated opinion I have driven both a built and stock 2.6 and larger capacity RB's. Once you get into a stroked RB that's actually set up properly - holy shit hold on to your panties. Yes the 2.6 was way ahead of it's time (25 years ago) but a lot has changed since then. I suggest perhaps a bit more reading is in order..

Dont need to read more mate have driven many setups in 25 years, definitely not uneducated in regards to fast cars, you know the ones you spend your life looking at YouTube and reading about on forums. But every morning I fire up my 26 and life could not be better. I wish this on everyone if that's what they want.

And the 26 is more than capable today more than it ever was... I prove that to myself ever day... Now YOU can read about it.

All the best of luck mate. Before you take the plunge do yourself a favour and experience a couple of setups so you know exactly what you are going to get, how it's going to drive and other things that may be important to you. And make sure you investigate the reliability of your setup esp driveline. Good luck mate.

Hi, thanks for the advice but I live in the bush and no chance to have a drive of different R set-ups , if I had a brain, I should have stayed in Sydney for a few days before I bought the car and looked around:(

I have spoken to blokes with the stroker setup I am after and they, except for one where more than happy.but even the one said it was a good ride.

I have had a quote and think I should get some more.

I have asked Rob at Rips for a quote on a 3.2 and 3L long motor and sell mine as it has been built to take hard work.

Have a quote on the RB30 3.2Lt + head work and as it is not cheap, so I will try to get some quotes from a few shops , ANY INFO WELCOME.

I have asked Rips for a quote on a long 3.2 and 3Lt and maybe sell mine as is, there is only 3000Klms ish on the motor since it was built , I drove the last 300Klms to run it in. My motor has been built for hard work, JE/NITTO forged pistons, H beam connecting rods, Nitto drag gaskets, ARP main & head stud kits and all the stuff that makes it go hard.

Any suggestion welcome, except , don't do it :woot:

I own both a well sorted 2.6 and a well sorted 3.0 ( motor wise anyway, the suspension still needs work ) and both are much of a muchness for response and the 3.0 kicks the shit out of the 2.6 and defecates on its remains :D

If that makes me egotistical then so be it, personally I'm quiet proud of what I've achieved given my childhood

  • Like 2

I don't watch cars on video buddy because they can be deceiving and a load of crap just like reading the rubbish people tend to say on this forum. I happen to work in the wonderful world of the motoring industry so I am privileged to speak to and drive many people's cars. Including quite a few of the boys set ups on here. The 2.6 is only capable of so much driveability. I had a standard engine RB26 and to be honest compared to someone like Piggaz stroked 2.8 you can throw "response" out the window on the 2.6.

A quote from GTRNUR with his 3.4L

"Very revy off idle almost like an RB26 with a stupidly light flywheel. Except it doesn't fall on its head when you light up the clutch"

And if you actually went down to any of the garages at time attack you'd be lucky to find anyone running a 2.6 and there's a good reason for it.

And if you actually went down to any of the garages at time attack you'd be lucky to find anyone running a 2.6 and there's a good reason for it.

sure, and the reason is that those guys are happy to spend $200k+ to build their cars :P But it's certainly not for response, they are about the furthest away from street cars you can get. They just need 500kw to get near those pesky evos.

anyway, let the ego talking continue! no point talking on topic in the wasteland, or wherever this thread is.

Would you consider an R35 GTR Pete?

By the time you spend the money and root around building a 3.2L you're probably better off selling ya 34 and putting the cash ya gunna spend on that motor into a 35 in my opinion. Its a decade newer. More refined car with nicer interior etc and you will have ALL the torque you need with a 3.8L

Also with an Exhaust and a tune you will probably see around the 380kw zone.

I think its a big gamble spending 20-30K on something you MAY NOT even be happy with still?

Then you've got the driveline issues to chase with the bigger torqueyier motor too and that can be another 20K easily!

I think its crazy throwing around 100K (including car purchase) on it when you could have a horny as hell 35 with all the creature comforts and torque you seek all in a much newer nicer package for probably the same money at the end of the day with a lot less drama too. My $0.02 :D

Edited by Mick_o

Would you consider an R35 GTR Pete?

By the time you spend the money and root around building a 3.2L you're probably better off selling ya 34 and putting the cash ya gunna spend on that motor into a 35 in my opinion. Its a decade newer. More refined car with nicer interior etc and you will have ALL the torque you need with a 3.8L

Also with an Exhaust and a tune you will probably see around the 380kw zone.

I think its a big gamble spending 20-30K on something you MAY NOT even be happy with still?

Then you've got the driveline issues to chase with the bigger torqueyier motor too and that can be another 20K easily!

I think its crazy throwing around 100K (including car purchase) on it when you could have a horny as hell 35 with all the creature comforts and torque you seek all in a much newer nicer package for probably the same money at the end of the day with a lot less drama too. My $0.02 :D

Good idea. I know someone with a 10 second R32 who is annoyed that stockish R35s are competitive with his car round a track!

Hi Mick-o

I did think about that some time ago but I could not bring myself to get one, I always wanted to wait for the prices to come down and when they did I always wanted the next year model, bloody idiot :/

I cannot even answer your question to myself, I do not know why I am doing this, stubborn I guess as I want this car to be what I imagined it was,and back then it was really something and I want to bring my car into 2014 :) :) I am sure this statement will piss a lot off but who gives a shit :)

I do like driving the R34 ,it is like cars were but with grunt :)

I will not be taking it to its full potential , maybe 450awkw and should I want more I will get it :)

Cheers

Pete

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...