Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I didn't intend to get involved in the usual FIP section pissing contest.....just to make the point that if your tuner says they "tuned for response" without changing anything mechanically you better find a tuner who isn't talking shit.

Jimmy, I was listing mechanical factors that affect response; once the mods have started most people forget how early the standard setup gets on boost. I built the stagea deliberately for response which is why it has standard zorst manifold, standard cams, standard head, small turbo and 3 litre bottom end. And it makes 18psi by 3200 rpm

stagea_dyno_2012.jpg

If I wanted more response I would add cam gear (as I have on the race car), it can bring on boost a few hundred revs sooner at the cost of top end power. But frankly it comes on hard enough early enough to empty the fuel tank quickly.

For a race car I would say it is a very different concern. Full boost at 5 or even 5.5 is adequate especially if you have short gears and a standard or raised rev limit.

I want this for my stagea... working on the 3lt currently but what turbo did you go with? my goal is the curve to be climbing through 120 odd kw at 3k (torquie is locked up by then) with a fat load of torque.

I remember Cubes saying years ago that a std GT3076R 0.82 AR woke up quite early on his RB2530 though that was with an R32 RB25 NA head on it - no VCT .

I'm trying to think along the lines of what Ford did on early XR6Ts when they wanted low boost with low restriction torque at lowish revs . Their GT3582R had the big turbine housing size with a smaller than usual sized compressor housing (T04E 0.50 from memory) and low boost pressure possibly 6-8 psi .

I know people reckon I harped on about GT3076R 52T turbos over the years but think about this . Results with GT3071Rs were inconsistent and the 52T is the smallest of the 76mm GT compressor options . The smaller 0.50 AR (vs 0.60 AR) T04E compressor housing would put the air speed a bit higher at lower turbo speeds which is what you want to make low speed torque IMO .

I think the critical thing is having low exhaust restriction at low revs but enough compressor speed to make boost in that engine speed range . Autos make life easier here because the engine revs can be a little higher at the point where the torque converter does exactly that .

20% more engine capacity will make a big difference in the standing to suburbing speed ranges so heaps of low down boost probably isn't necessary .

Other than a GT3076R the only other thing I can think of is maybe a 2835 Pro S with the larger 0.87AR turbine housing on it if you can find that kit . Expensive new but falls in and the 0.87 possibly better suits the RB30 .

I also agree with std cams and manifolds .

A .

Yeah 180kw at 3500 is pretty fun, I'd be surprised if there were many RB setups making that sort of power :)

I'm actually not sure of the exact turbo specs; I originally had an ebay "T3/4" bush bearing turbo on there and put a garret ball bearing core in when it failed. If it helps the turbo anorak wearers the core tag says "PC 0105J 7-6451-5005".

But whatever it was, it was spot on what I was after :)

  • 4 weeks later...

I went back to stock airbox from ARC airbox, Tomei Poncams 270 ex 9.15, tomei cam gears, arp headstuds, tomei valve springs. Will eventually change out AFM's to Z32's and get a hard piping kit to replace all the rubber pipes :)

ok so i have been told to build a reliable 600hp rb26 on e85 I will need a nismo (n1 block) that -5 turbos will not flow at that power. i was told that the stock rb26 block will crack for sure at some stage if its pushed past 450hp . my block is the r33 gtr block . What is your view on this guys .ps sorry if i hi jacked this thread

ok so i have been told to build a reliable 600hp rb26 on e85 I will need a nismo (n1 block) that -5 turbos will not flow at that power. i was told that the stock rb26 block will crack for sure at some stage if its pushed past 450hp . my block is the r33 gtr block . What is your view on this guys .ps sorry if i hi jacked this thread

Don't go back there again. They don't know what they are talking about LOL

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...