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I just went and bought the Gulf Western SYN-X-3000, damn its so cheap at 30 bux, im feeling guilty lol and wondering if I should go n swap it for the 'better?' Sougi M5000 which is what I have in my engine currently...

Double post damn iphone.

I just went and bought the Gulf Western SYN-X-3000, damn its so cheap at 30 bux, im feeling guilty lol and wondering if I should go n swap it for the 'better?' Sougi M5000 which is what I have in my engine currently...

Edited by rondofj

In the $30~ range I would only touch GW or Penrite. If you put something in like Magnatec then I would say to swap it out immediately for something better.

Oh ok, just bit paranoid cos it ( GW SYN-X-3000)looks kinda generic, but have read on hear that its pretty much the same as the GW Sougi M5000 which is only 50 bux.

Edited by rondofj

I use Sougi S6000 (still have supply for one more oil change) and as far as it went with replacing my regular oil Motul 8100 X-Cess, I couldn't fault it all. Good oil pressure when cold and hot, built pressure quickly at startup, still looked good after I dumped it at 5000km (no sludge, was black but didn't stink of fuel), idled smooth as it did with Motul (often I had to check my RPM while waiting at traffic lights as I couldn't feel it idling, kinda felt like the engine had stalled).

Years before I even heard of Sougi, I had some cheap GW XMP ($5 something at supercheap) lying around I never got around to using as I had a 4 cyl shitbox before my skyline, I offered to do an oil change on my neighbours car (4cyl shitbox). It was a completely different animal putting the oil in, before it violently shook, could feel it through the steering wheel really bad just idling and the loose plastic interior panels sounded god awful not to mention the engine sounded like shit. After the change, engine sounded healthy again and idled smoothly which god rid of that nasty vibration.. I wasn't expecting this at all from what I perceived as nasty $5 oil. Even my neighbour thought I did more than just change the oil and filter.

These 2 experiences personally give me have confidence in the GW brand, I only use it in my skyline because others have used it with success.

If I run out of S6000 and Syn-X 6000 isn't available nearby, I'll give Penrite's 10 Tenths range a try, if that doesn't work I'll go back to Motul.

I just went and bought the Gulf Western SYN-X-3000, damn its so cheap at 30 bux, im feeling guilty lol and wondering if I should go n swap it for the 'better?' Sougi M5000 which is what I have in my engine currently...

Nothing wrong with running Syn-X in your car. It is technically a "better" oil than M5000 only because it meets later specifications (SM vs SL from memory). It is IMO the best oil on the price-quality scale and I used to sell lots of 205L drums to mechanics who loved it because of how cheap and versatile the oil was. They all used it in their regular customer cars and upon return couldn't fault it. I'll still be using M5000 once I run out of S6000.

Birds that new Syn-X 6000 looks interesting. Not so happy about it being 5w though. I think it should have been a 10w40 oil as it's still going to be competing with the Royal Purple, Motul 8100 X-max 10w40 and the Chrono 300V. It's not a bad replacement for Sougi S6000 but it's annoying that yet another oil comes in a 5w40 only with no 10w40 option.

I was a little disappointed when I saw that it was 5w...don't know why they couldn't just do a full synth version of Syn-X 3000. I think they wanted a cheap oil that would appeal to all these late model cars asking for 5w oils. That said, I've heard there's very little difference between 5w and 10w, and that some oil companies will market their 5w as 10w and vice versa because of this.

Hey all.

Need some advice on what oil to run when using E85. Has it been covered before? I hear that because of the ethanol content a different type of oil may be required. Thanks in advance.

russ, we had a long thread about it in FIP.

I use motul 6100 15w50 as it is desgned for LPG and has good moisture absorbing properties.

to summarise what we worked out, you can use pretty much any oil if you change it long enough. if you dont want to change it after every track day dont use 300v

a semi syn (like 6100) is a good idea as the mineral content will have good moisture absorbsion.

esther based oils are not great unless you change them after every event, as they end up with the moisture seperate from the oil.

there are specif oils that were reccomended, however i cant remember them atm.... i'll link you the thread when i see it

All of the Penrite HPR oils are fully synthetic now, what are your thoughts on this?

Would you switch from Syn to HPR? Or keep going with the new Syn (Ten tenths?)

I am trying out the HPR15 for my RB30.

yeh i been wondering the same..i just put HPR10 in as its cheap and only really seeing street duties and i was sick of spending 80 bucks on oil just to drop it 2000kms later cause it hadnt been driven much..

but wether or not its designed for engines pushing double factory power is something im unsure of as yet...Might be better off with the Edge :unsure:

Stock rb30 = coles motor oil changed every 50 000km's and it still wont die....

ARTZ, the HPR will be fine, i used the old HPR for years and years at double factory power and when i pulled the motor apart it was immaculate. I cant see the new HPR being anything but better again. But then again I'm a big Penrite fan so i might be a little biased.

Well First cold start this morning with me remembering i have forgies but really noticed alot more noise than i was used to also noticed even at quarter temp some engine noise was still there. Once car come up right up to temp the car was fine. I was just using the royal purple 10w 40w and i have the HPR10 which is however 10w 50w so any thoughts id really appreciate it.

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