Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just went and bought the Gulf Western SYN-X-3000, damn its so cheap at 30 bux, im feeling guilty lol and wondering if I should go n swap it for the 'better?' Sougi M5000 which is what I have in my engine currently...

Double post damn iphone.

I just went and bought the Gulf Western SYN-X-3000, damn its so cheap at 30 bux, im feeling guilty lol and wondering if I should go n swap it for the 'better?' Sougi M5000 which is what I have in my engine currently...

Edited by rondofj

In the $30~ range I would only touch GW or Penrite. If you put something in like Magnatec then I would say to swap it out immediately for something better.

Oh ok, just bit paranoid cos it ( GW SYN-X-3000)looks kinda generic, but have read on hear that its pretty much the same as the GW Sougi M5000 which is only 50 bux.

Edited by rondofj

I use Sougi S6000 (still have supply for one more oil change) and as far as it went with replacing my regular oil Motul 8100 X-Cess, I couldn't fault it all. Good oil pressure when cold and hot, built pressure quickly at startup, still looked good after I dumped it at 5000km (no sludge, was black but didn't stink of fuel), idled smooth as it did with Motul (often I had to check my RPM while waiting at traffic lights as I couldn't feel it idling, kinda felt like the engine had stalled).

Years before I even heard of Sougi, I had some cheap GW XMP ($5 something at supercheap) lying around I never got around to using as I had a 4 cyl shitbox before my skyline, I offered to do an oil change on my neighbours car (4cyl shitbox). It was a completely different animal putting the oil in, before it violently shook, could feel it through the steering wheel really bad just idling and the loose plastic interior panels sounded god awful not to mention the engine sounded like shit. After the change, engine sounded healthy again and idled smoothly which god rid of that nasty vibration.. I wasn't expecting this at all from what I perceived as nasty $5 oil. Even my neighbour thought I did more than just change the oil and filter.

These 2 experiences personally give me have confidence in the GW brand, I only use it in my skyline because others have used it with success.

If I run out of S6000 and Syn-X 6000 isn't available nearby, I'll give Penrite's 10 Tenths range a try, if that doesn't work I'll go back to Motul.

I just went and bought the Gulf Western SYN-X-3000, damn its so cheap at 30 bux, im feeling guilty lol and wondering if I should go n swap it for the 'better?' Sougi M5000 which is what I have in my engine currently...

Nothing wrong with running Syn-X in your car. It is technically a "better" oil than M5000 only because it meets later specifications (SM vs SL from memory). It is IMO the best oil on the price-quality scale and I used to sell lots of 205L drums to mechanics who loved it because of how cheap and versatile the oil was. They all used it in their regular customer cars and upon return couldn't fault it. I'll still be using M5000 once I run out of S6000.

Birds that new Syn-X 6000 looks interesting. Not so happy about it being 5w though. I think it should have been a 10w40 oil as it's still going to be competing with the Royal Purple, Motul 8100 X-max 10w40 and the Chrono 300V. It's not a bad replacement for Sougi S6000 but it's annoying that yet another oil comes in a 5w40 only with no 10w40 option.

I was a little disappointed when I saw that it was 5w...don't know why they couldn't just do a full synth version of Syn-X 3000. I think they wanted a cheap oil that would appeal to all these late model cars asking for 5w oils. That said, I've heard there's very little difference between 5w and 10w, and that some oil companies will market their 5w as 10w and vice versa because of this.

Hey all.

Need some advice on what oil to run when using E85. Has it been covered before? I hear that because of the ethanol content a different type of oil may be required. Thanks in advance.

russ, we had a long thread about it in FIP.

I use motul 6100 15w50 as it is desgned for LPG and has good moisture absorbing properties.

to summarise what we worked out, you can use pretty much any oil if you change it long enough. if you dont want to change it after every track day dont use 300v

a semi syn (like 6100) is a good idea as the mineral content will have good moisture absorbsion.

esther based oils are not great unless you change them after every event, as they end up with the moisture seperate from the oil.

there are specif oils that were reccomended, however i cant remember them atm.... i'll link you the thread when i see it

All of the Penrite HPR oils are fully synthetic now, what are your thoughts on this?

Would you switch from Syn to HPR? Or keep going with the new Syn (Ten tenths?)

I am trying out the HPR15 for my RB30.

yeh i been wondering the same..i just put HPR10 in as its cheap and only really seeing street duties and i was sick of spending 80 bucks on oil just to drop it 2000kms later cause it hadnt been driven much..

but wether or not its designed for engines pushing double factory power is something im unsure of as yet...Might be better off with the Edge :unsure:

Stock rb30 = coles motor oil changed every 50 000km's and it still wont die....

ARTZ, the HPR will be fine, i used the old HPR for years and years at double factory power and when i pulled the motor apart it was immaculate. I cant see the new HPR being anything but better again. But then again I'm a big Penrite fan so i might be a little biased.

Well First cold start this morning with me remembering i have forgies but really noticed alot more noise than i was used to also noticed even at quarter temp some engine noise was still there. Once car come up right up to temp the car was fine. I was just using the royal purple 10w 40w and i have the HPR10 which is however 10w 50w so any thoughts id really appreciate it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
    • hahah when youtube subscribers are faster than my updates here. Yes some vid from the day is up, here:  Note that as with all track day videos it is boring watching after the bloopers at the start.  The off was a genuine surprise to me, I've literally done a thousand laps around the place and I've never had instability there; basically it rolled into oversteer, slipped, gripped and spat me out. On the way off I mowed down one of the instructor's cones and it sat there all day looking at me with accusing cone eyes as I drove past. 1:13:20 was my fastest lap, and it was in the second session, 3rd lap.  It (or me!) got slower throughout the day as it got hotter.      
×
×
  • Create New...