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I've been using Nulon hi tech fast flowing 10W40 synthetic + one bottle of Nulon E20 (for 25,000 kms)

& Nulon Semi-Synthetic 75W-90 Smooth Shift in the Gbox. (6000 kms)

All Smooth, No complaints.

I've been using Nulon hi tech fast flowing 10W40 synthetic + one bottle of Nulon E20 (for 25,000 kms)

& Nulon Semi-Synthetic 75W-90 Smooth Shift in the Gbox. (6000 kms)

All Smooth, No complaints.

Good choice of oils.

What could hard starting be? Should have mentioned it only hard starts when cold so I thought maybe the thick unwarmed oil?

Your asking in the wrong thread for starters, and need to be more specific. Hard starting how? is it slow to crank, does it crank over repetitive and never fires? does it fire then stop straight away? Need more info

Oil will not cause hard starting. Regardless if its thick/thin or cold/warm, its will not impact starting of the car unless - Its really thick sludge (in that case you got bigger problems) or there is no oil and everything just grinds.

And for a recommended oil, use the thinnest you can without burning a excessive amount between changes. If 5w-40/50 doesn't burn use it. Otherwise go to a 10w/15w-40/50.

Try different oils and see which feels best for you and your car.

Edited by Booki

I noticed the Autobarn catalog with $40 Gulf Western 5W40, but they never seem to have any Gulf Western in stock (apart from the price leader 20W50).

It's not the wrong thread because the topic was OIL in the role of hard starting.

Oil will play no part in cold starting issues.

Edited by BuuBox

It's not the wrong thread because the topic was OIL in the role of hard starting.

 

It cranks over many times before starting. Starts easy after it's been driven/warmed so I took a guess at oil.

 

Cheers for the info

I'm guessing you have an aftermarket ecu. So your hard starting when cold will be tune related, not oil.

I was reading about the different groups III IV etc and thought this was interesting.

Its important not to place too much emphasis on one particular component of a lubricant like ZDDP and base stock etc. The performance of a lubricant will depend on the whole package and it also depends on the application. Lubricants are usually OK to use in a wide range of applications but they will perform better in some than others and thats regardless of what base stock they may have. Sometimes very good lubes look very non-spectacular on paper. Grp4 base stock does not automatically make a lubricant better for all applications. The world is turning more for Group3+ lubricants because they perform extremely well, like a PAO and are cheaper.

Synthetic is just a marketing dream word. Synthetic is after all not a legal definition, it's just a word that can mean more than one thing. 100% synthetic is also just a marketing term and no lube is 100% synthetic, no oil can be 100% PAO or 100% ester as it would make a terrible lubricant. Lubricants are also comprised of additives which can total as much at 30% of the product. A lot of these additives will be dispersed in a mineral base.

Mobil recently switched from their traditional PAO blends to use more GIII+ and their lubricants actually improved significantly, HTHS increased and they became more shear stable. This is just technology like anything else. Mobil switched to a wax isomerisation process rather than hydrocracking to make the base. This technology is nothing new, it has been used by Shell for a very long time.

And that leads me to my recommendation. Helix Ultra is a top quality lube, and in Australia we get it at a fantastic price. In the USA, Shell products are far more expensive than the likes of Mobil or Castrol. The latest Shell products, API SN formulation of Helix Ultra use a different base stock again. It is made by a gas to liquid (GTL) and its exclusive to Shell so far. The result is a very pure base very similar to PAO. I'm not sure if this is even on sale in Australia but in the USA products that use this base stock are showing significantly better specs, like lower Noack, MRV, CCS.

http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/2061556

This guy seems to know a bit about the oil industry. I might be using Shell Helix Ultra 5w-40 next time.

http://www.shell.com.au/products-services/on-the-road/consumer-lubricants-tpkg/cars/find-right-car-oils/helix-ultra/ultra.html

IMO 5w is too thin. Manufacturer states 10w40. As said, there is not point spending big $$ on oil if is only a daily.

I use Valvoline Engine Armour 10w40 in my new daily and any shitty 20w50 in my Starlet which has over 300,000km and still runs like a clock ;)

Why do people say this? a 5w oil (being the cold weighting) is still going to be thicker than it's 40 rating at 90/100 degrees running. Hell a 0w still has a higher viscocity. There is no way in a hell a cold oil will ever be thinner than it's high rating unless they can produce -10w or something along those lines

Why do people say this? a 5w oil (being the cold weighting) is still going to be thicker than it's 40 rating at 90/100 degrees running. Hell a 0w still has a higher viscocity. There is no way in a hell a cold oil will ever be thinner than it's high rating unless they can produce -10w or something along those lines

But but but the book says use Nissan 10W-40 :P

This shows the lack of understanding people have. Stick 0W-30 oil in the fridge for an hour (simulate a cold start in winter), then pour it. Then compare it to the flow of a 25W-60 oil that just came out of an engine (90 degC).

I was reading about the different groups III IV etc and thought this was interesting.

http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/2061556

This guy seems to know a bit about the oil industry. I might be using Shell Helix Ultra 5w-40 next time.

http://www.shell.com.au/products-services/on-the-road/consumer-lubricants-tpkg/cars/find-right-car-oils/helix-ultra/ultra.html

Shell Helix Ultra is my back-up oil. Good quality, easy to purchase if I'm out of internet oil. My most used oil since 2002. It is MB229.5 accredited, which is a good.

My typical oil now is Mobil 1 0-40w (internet bulk buy). Highly recommend it.

That article was completely misleading and incorrect and street commodores officially revoked the article and apologised on their website:

http://www.streetcommodores.com.au/news/01_oils_aint_oils.php

:worship: Indeed, a pathetic article that uses a test not designed for engine oils. It is totally and completely irrelevant testing. Typical of the sort of crap in most car magazines.

Shell Helix Ultra is my back-up oil. Good quality, easy to purchase if I'm out of internet oil. My most used oil since 2002. It is MB229.5 accredited, which is a good.

My typical oil now is Mobil 1 0-40w (internet bulk buy). Highly recommend it.

I will be trying Shell Helix ULtra this coming service, hopefully it will be better then the Gulf Western Syx6000 5w-40. Was really disappointed with that oil after all the wrap it has gotten.

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