Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've been using Nulon hi tech fast flowing 10W40 synthetic + one bottle of Nulon E20 (for 25,000 kms)

& Nulon Semi-Synthetic 75W-90 Smooth Shift in the Gbox. (6000 kms)

All Smooth, No complaints.

I've been using Nulon hi tech fast flowing 10W40 synthetic + one bottle of Nulon E20 (for 25,000 kms)

& Nulon Semi-Synthetic 75W-90 Smooth Shift in the Gbox. (6000 kms)

All Smooth, No complaints.

Good choice of oils.

What could hard starting be? Should have mentioned it only hard starts when cold so I thought maybe the thick unwarmed oil?

Your asking in the wrong thread for starters, and need to be more specific. Hard starting how? is it slow to crank, does it crank over repetitive and never fires? does it fire then stop straight away? Need more info

Oil will not cause hard starting. Regardless if its thick/thin or cold/warm, its will not impact starting of the car unless - Its really thick sludge (in that case you got bigger problems) or there is no oil and everything just grinds.

And for a recommended oil, use the thinnest you can without burning a excessive amount between changes. If 5w-40/50 doesn't burn use it. Otherwise go to a 10w/15w-40/50.

Try different oils and see which feels best for you and your car.

Edited by Booki

I noticed the Autobarn catalog with $40 Gulf Western 5W40, but they never seem to have any Gulf Western in stock (apart from the price leader 20W50).

It's not the wrong thread because the topic was OIL in the role of hard starting.

Oil will play no part in cold starting issues.

Edited by BuuBox

It's not the wrong thread because the topic was OIL in the role of hard starting.

 

It cranks over many times before starting. Starts easy after it's been driven/warmed so I took a guess at oil.

 

Cheers for the info

I'm guessing you have an aftermarket ecu. So your hard starting when cold will be tune related, not oil.

I was reading about the different groups III IV etc and thought this was interesting.

Its important not to place too much emphasis on one particular component of a lubricant like ZDDP and base stock etc. The performance of a lubricant will depend on the whole package and it also depends on the application. Lubricants are usually OK to use in a wide range of applications but they will perform better in some than others and thats regardless of what base stock they may have. Sometimes very good lubes look very non-spectacular on paper. Grp4 base stock does not automatically make a lubricant better for all applications. The world is turning more for Group3+ lubricants because they perform extremely well, like a PAO and are cheaper.

Synthetic is just a marketing dream word. Synthetic is after all not a legal definition, it's just a word that can mean more than one thing. 100% synthetic is also just a marketing term and no lube is 100% synthetic, no oil can be 100% PAO or 100% ester as it would make a terrible lubricant. Lubricants are also comprised of additives which can total as much at 30% of the product. A lot of these additives will be dispersed in a mineral base.

Mobil recently switched from their traditional PAO blends to use more GIII+ and their lubricants actually improved significantly, HTHS increased and they became more shear stable. This is just technology like anything else. Mobil switched to a wax isomerisation process rather than hydrocracking to make the base. This technology is nothing new, it has been used by Shell for a very long time.

And that leads me to my recommendation. Helix Ultra is a top quality lube, and in Australia we get it at a fantastic price. In the USA, Shell products are far more expensive than the likes of Mobil or Castrol. The latest Shell products, API SN formulation of Helix Ultra use a different base stock again. It is made by a gas to liquid (GTL) and its exclusive to Shell so far. The result is a very pure base very similar to PAO. I'm not sure if this is even on sale in Australia but in the USA products that use this base stock are showing significantly better specs, like lower Noack, MRV, CCS.

http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/2061556

This guy seems to know a bit about the oil industry. I might be using Shell Helix Ultra 5w-40 next time.

http://www.shell.com.au/products-services/on-the-road/consumer-lubricants-tpkg/cars/find-right-car-oils/helix-ultra/ultra.html

IMO 5w is too thin. Manufacturer states 10w40. As said, there is not point spending big $$ on oil if is only a daily.

I use Valvoline Engine Armour 10w40 in my new daily and any shitty 20w50 in my Starlet which has over 300,000km and still runs like a clock ;)

Why do people say this? a 5w oil (being the cold weighting) is still going to be thicker than it's 40 rating at 90/100 degrees running. Hell a 0w still has a higher viscocity. There is no way in a hell a cold oil will ever be thinner than it's high rating unless they can produce -10w or something along those lines

Why do people say this? a 5w oil (being the cold weighting) is still going to be thicker than it's 40 rating at 90/100 degrees running. Hell a 0w still has a higher viscocity. There is no way in a hell a cold oil will ever be thinner than it's high rating unless they can produce -10w or something along those lines

But but but the book says use Nissan 10W-40 :P

This shows the lack of understanding people have. Stick 0W-30 oil in the fridge for an hour (simulate a cold start in winter), then pour it. Then compare it to the flow of a 25W-60 oil that just came out of an engine (90 degC).

I was reading about the different groups III IV etc and thought this was interesting.

http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/2061556

This guy seems to know a bit about the oil industry. I might be using Shell Helix Ultra 5w-40 next time.

http://www.shell.com.au/products-services/on-the-road/consumer-lubricants-tpkg/cars/find-right-car-oils/helix-ultra/ultra.html

Shell Helix Ultra is my back-up oil. Good quality, easy to purchase if I'm out of internet oil. My most used oil since 2002. It is MB229.5 accredited, which is a good.

My typical oil now is Mobil 1 0-40w (internet bulk buy). Highly recommend it.

That article was completely misleading and incorrect and street commodores officially revoked the article and apologised on their website:

http://www.streetcommodores.com.au/news/01_oils_aint_oils.php

:worship: Indeed, a pathetic article that uses a test not designed for engine oils. It is totally and completely irrelevant testing. Typical of the sort of crap in most car magazines.

Shell Helix Ultra is my back-up oil. Good quality, easy to purchase if I'm out of internet oil. My most used oil since 2002. It is MB229.5 accredited, which is a good.

My typical oil now is Mobil 1 0-40w (internet bulk buy). Highly recommend it.

I will be trying Shell Helix ULtra this coming service, hopefully it will be better then the Gulf Western Syx6000 5w-40. Was really disappointed with that oil after all the wrap it has gotten.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...