Jump to content
SAU Community

The Goods On Oils

PHaT MR30

By PHaT MR30,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 3.3k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

Any brand will work fine, some just last longer than others. I still believe you are better off using a cheaper ($50) oil and changing it every 5k rather than spending twice that and trying to strin

Kinks
Kinks

Royal Purple 10W-50, warm it between your hands for a few seconds then apply it to the area at the base of your shaft between your balls ..about as valid as any other opinion in this thread

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

F1 still use monograde 10 weight oils, hence the need to get the engine warm before starting it. Nothing stone age about it...

Posted Images

Booki Rising Star

Booki

Posted
Posted

I was using Motul xcess 5w-40 before i tried the gulf, basically in a nutshell.

Pressure would build up quicker with the motul oil

The gulf western made the car feel "lethargic", almost like it was slower to rev up

Otherwise that was it, it just felt different to drive....I mean I could be crazy and it could all be placebo, but there was definitely a difference in the way the car revved.

Ill see how i go with the Shell Helix Ultra 5w-40.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

It's a different grade, of course it would feel different. How often would it be at hot oil temps this time of year...

Do you have an oil temp gauge?

Pouring new 10w40 into an engine today it was like honey...

Booki Rising Star

Booki

Posted
Posted

Well both grades were rated the same, 5w-40 - is that what you are referring too scott?

The R33 GTR has the stock oil temp gauge, once the oil gets up to temp, it seemed to feel the same as the motul (100degree's). Just at lower temps it felt like i described. Where the motul was different at lower temps.

Its been a while since I had the motul in it, so looking forward to seeing how the Shell stacks up against the two, as its priced somewhat in between them both.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Sorry Booki, I just checked and you are correct, the GW synx 6000 is indeed 5W40, I checked the old Sougi 6000 accidentally which is a 10w40 and the Synx 3000 which is also a 10w40.

I haven't had any issues with any of these grades feeling lethargic, although I suspect the VQ's run a higher oil temp as standard.

luke gtr Grand Master

luke gtr

Posted
Posted

I was using Motul xcess 5w-40 before i tried the gulf, basically in a nutshell.

Pressure would build up quicker with the motul oil

The gulf western made the car feel "lethargic", almost like it was slower to rev up

Otherwise that was it, it just felt different to drive....I mean I could be crazy and it could all be placebo, but there was definitely a difference in the way the car revved.

Ill see how i go with the Shell Helix Ultra 5w-40.

agreed.

see my previous post regarding motul vs penrite.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
chestnut Enthusiast

chestnut

Posted
Posted

Penrite make it clear on their website that the '10 Tenths Racing 10 (10W-40)' is a synthetic mixed of group 4 and 5 which is great, but my local doesn't stock it!

So I've got to settle for the HPR 10 (10W-50). I've tried searching this thread but can't find an answer as to what group Penrite HPR is.

Anyone know?

Dan_J Veteran

Dan_J

Posted
Posted (edited)

Penrite make it clear on their website that the '10 Tenths Racing 10 (10W-40)' is a synthetic mixed of group 4 and 5 which is great, but my local doesn't stock it!

So I've got to settle for the HPR 10 (10W-50). I've tried searching this thread but can't find an answer as to what group Penrite HPR is.

Anyone know?

i bought some at supercheap last time....

i really want to find a drum of it or a place that can fill a supplied drum/container, any clues?

Edited by Dan_J
HiveFleetAbyss Mentor

HiveFleetAbyss

Posted
Posted

I bought some Penrite Enviro+ 5W40 to try next change, full synth and SN rated so it should be fine with ethanol. 10 Tenths is hard to find.

Really most autobahns stock it regularly. I swapped from 10 tenths to royal purple and found it ran pretty well in the 33.

niZmO_Man Grand Master

niZmO_Man

Posted
Posted

Penrite make it clear on their website that the '10 Tenths Racing 10 (10W-40)' is a synthetic mixed of group 4 and 5 which is great, but my local doesn't stock it!

So I've got to settle for the HPR 10 (10W-50). I've tried searching this thread but can't find an answer as to what group Penrite HPR is.

Anyone know?

There is also Premium 5 (5W-60)

If you local store doesn't have it, go to another one (if you can).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...