Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was desperate to get a change done today so I just got the HPR 10. My oil reeked of fuel :(

niZmO_Man my (local) Autobarn had 10 Tenths Premium but unfortunately not the Premium 0W-50 which is what Penrite was recommending for me.

I’ll be getting some Racing 10 (10W-40) from Repco as per the suggestions above.

Thanks guys!

i use 10/40 tens racing with no oil control mods, car is regular daily and gets limiter bashing on the track days

picked up 4 bottles at repco for 55

try 10/40, then try 0-5w-50 on your next oil changed after that and note how much oil has been consumed

went from castrol to everyday penrite with the same grade on sisters daily and has fixed the power band issues it had

Edited by Dan_J

i use 10/40 tens racing with no oil control mods, car is regular daily and gets limiter bashing on the track days

picked up 4 bottles at repco for 55

try 10/40, then try 0-5w-50 on your next oil changed after that and note how much oil has been consumed

went from castrol to everyday penrite with the same grade on sisters daily and has fixed the power band issues it had

I use pretty much same have 250rwkw on my 34GTT and use 5w-40 even when taking out to track for drifting. I am going to put the 10w-50 when I head out to matsuri as it will be hotter then and a lot more track time seen than usual

Engine : Nulon hi tech fast flowing 10W40 synthetic + one bottle of Nulon E20. - Very smooth.

Gearbox : Nulon Semi-Synthetic 75W-90 Smooth Shift. - Tightened the box + easier cold shift / less crunch.

Diff : Nulon SAE 90. - Tightened up and stopped a reversing clunk.

Probably posted this before but all of these have improved my car. (Daily Driven)

Very Happy. :yes:

I use pretty much same have 250rwkw on my 34GTT and use 5w-40 even when taking out to track for drifting. I am going to put the 10w-50 when I head out to matsuri as it will be hotter then and a lot more track time seen than usual

i cant say i know much but as far as going thicker grade with no oil control mods it might leave you with more oil in the head not draining back to bottom end due to thickness

others may have actual answers to this.

  • 2 weeks later...

Can anyone tell me what is a safe oil temp for my r32 gtst? its a drift car with basic mods like a r34 neo turbo, hks intercooler, turbo back exhaust and a good cold air intake... also has some cooling mods such as a triple core alloy radiator, r34 viscous fan with shroud and large trust oil cooler with earls braided lines etc.

The oil is getting to 100 degrees very quickly, I always stop around then and let the car cool down but would be nice if I stay on the track for longer :) I was using penrite hpr 10 (synthetic 10w50) but have tried hpr 15 (15w60) and that made no difference.

Is there oils that are safe to use at say 120 degrees? Or could I possibly have an oil pump thats getting tired or some other issue?

any help would be appreciated :)

THanks

Can anyone tell me what is a safe oil temp for my r32 gtst? its a drift car with basic mods like a r34 neo turbo, hks intercooler, turbo back exhaust and a good cold air intake... also has some cooling mods such as a triple core alloy radiator, r34 viscous fan with shroud and large trust oil cooler with earls braided lines etc.

The oil is getting to 100 degrees very quickly, I always stop around then and let the car cool down but would be nice if I stay on the track for longer :) I was using penrite hpr 10 (synthetic 10w50) but have tried hpr 15 (15w60) and that made no difference.

Is there oils that are safe to use at say 120 degrees? Or could I possibly have an oil pump thats getting tired or some other issue?

any help would be appreciated :)

THanks

Oil temp of around 100 is pretty safe/normal I would have thought? My car sits on 80* day to day, and gets up to 90-95 quite quickly if I take if for a bit of a blast, and also comes down quite quickly once its been driven normally. I have a oil cooler in the front right guard that gets decent airflow

Im looking at using Penrite for my next oil change, seems to be quite popular

I haven't tried the 10 tenths range yet, would a different oil actually lower the temps? or just safe to use at higher temps? will a thinner oil cause less friction thus lowering the temp? I also change the oil about every 4 drift events...

I would be happy if it stayed at 100 degrees but it will keep climbing unless I go into the pits :( hottest I've let it get was 120

i cant say i know much but as far as going thicker grade with no oil control mods it might leave you with more oil in the head not draining back to bottom end due to thickness

others may have actual answers to this.

That's actually a pretty good point didn't even think of that. I may be better keeping my thinner oil since I don't have issues with burning of the oil or blow by

Yeah give Racing 10 (10W-40) a go. I think they have a thicker oil in that product line. These are $75/bottle, but they should be more stable when running at 100deg.

My car is street driven, but switching from HPR to SIN I found the temps stayed a little bit lower (barely detectable).

Still using nulon 10 40,near enough to 430000 ks now,fantastick stuff.

:thumbsup:

Genelle, try the Nulon Semi-Synthetic 75W-90 Smooth Shift (Gearbox) and Nulon SAE 90 (Diff).

Fantastick Stuff Indeeds. :wave:

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car/ECU will have all the sensor that it needs and expect to have. I think i do not have to explain to you how the Link is way better specialy if you have swapped engine   I just do not want to deal with any "problems" cuz i have only Nistune which i learned is not that great and in my case cant even deal with that speed problem (Link can) And of course it will be way more easier to tune and diagnose and safe. And for the ECU/speed problem...i dont know.
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
    • Very good news...I contacted Racebox about it last night. My car is a 2016 so remains to be seen if it is compatible, requires a TCU swap, or is impossible.
×
×
  • Create New...