Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was desperate to get a change done today so I just got the HPR 10. My oil reeked of fuel :(

niZmO_Man my (local) Autobarn had 10 Tenths Premium but unfortunately not the Premium 0W-50 which is what Penrite was recommending for me.

I’ll be getting some Racing 10 (10W-40) from Repco as per the suggestions above.

Thanks guys!

i use 10/40 tens racing with no oil control mods, car is regular daily and gets limiter bashing on the track days

picked up 4 bottles at repco for 55

try 10/40, then try 0-5w-50 on your next oil changed after that and note how much oil has been consumed

went from castrol to everyday penrite with the same grade on sisters daily and has fixed the power band issues it had

Edited by Dan_J

i use 10/40 tens racing with no oil control mods, car is regular daily and gets limiter bashing on the track days

picked up 4 bottles at repco for 55

try 10/40, then try 0-5w-50 on your next oil changed after that and note how much oil has been consumed

went from castrol to everyday penrite with the same grade on sisters daily and has fixed the power band issues it had

I use pretty much same have 250rwkw on my 34GTT and use 5w-40 even when taking out to track for drifting. I am going to put the 10w-50 when I head out to matsuri as it will be hotter then and a lot more track time seen than usual

Engine : Nulon hi tech fast flowing 10W40 synthetic + one bottle of Nulon E20. - Very smooth.

Gearbox : Nulon Semi-Synthetic 75W-90 Smooth Shift. - Tightened the box + easier cold shift / less crunch.

Diff : Nulon SAE 90. - Tightened up and stopped a reversing clunk.

Probably posted this before but all of these have improved my car. (Daily Driven)

Very Happy. :yes:

I use pretty much same have 250rwkw on my 34GTT and use 5w-40 even when taking out to track for drifting. I am going to put the 10w-50 when I head out to matsuri as it will be hotter then and a lot more track time seen than usual

i cant say i know much but as far as going thicker grade with no oil control mods it might leave you with more oil in the head not draining back to bottom end due to thickness

others may have actual answers to this.

  • 2 weeks later...

Can anyone tell me what is a safe oil temp for my r32 gtst? its a drift car with basic mods like a r34 neo turbo, hks intercooler, turbo back exhaust and a good cold air intake... also has some cooling mods such as a triple core alloy radiator, r34 viscous fan with shroud and large trust oil cooler with earls braided lines etc.

The oil is getting to 100 degrees very quickly, I always stop around then and let the car cool down but would be nice if I stay on the track for longer :) I was using penrite hpr 10 (synthetic 10w50) but have tried hpr 15 (15w60) and that made no difference.

Is there oils that are safe to use at say 120 degrees? Or could I possibly have an oil pump thats getting tired or some other issue?

any help would be appreciated :)

THanks

Can anyone tell me what is a safe oil temp for my r32 gtst? its a drift car with basic mods like a r34 neo turbo, hks intercooler, turbo back exhaust and a good cold air intake... also has some cooling mods such as a triple core alloy radiator, r34 viscous fan with shroud and large trust oil cooler with earls braided lines etc.

The oil is getting to 100 degrees very quickly, I always stop around then and let the car cool down but would be nice if I stay on the track for longer :) I was using penrite hpr 10 (synthetic 10w50) but have tried hpr 15 (15w60) and that made no difference.

Is there oils that are safe to use at say 120 degrees? Or could I possibly have an oil pump thats getting tired or some other issue?

any help would be appreciated :)

THanks

Oil temp of around 100 is pretty safe/normal I would have thought? My car sits on 80* day to day, and gets up to 90-95 quite quickly if I take if for a bit of a blast, and also comes down quite quickly once its been driven normally. I have a oil cooler in the front right guard that gets decent airflow

Im looking at using Penrite for my next oil change, seems to be quite popular

I haven't tried the 10 tenths range yet, would a different oil actually lower the temps? or just safe to use at higher temps? will a thinner oil cause less friction thus lowering the temp? I also change the oil about every 4 drift events...

I would be happy if it stayed at 100 degrees but it will keep climbing unless I go into the pits :( hottest I've let it get was 120

i cant say i know much but as far as going thicker grade with no oil control mods it might leave you with more oil in the head not draining back to bottom end due to thickness

others may have actual answers to this.

That's actually a pretty good point didn't even think of that. I may be better keeping my thinner oil since I don't have issues with burning of the oil or blow by

Yeah give Racing 10 (10W-40) a go. I think they have a thicker oil in that product line. These are $75/bottle, but they should be more stable when running at 100deg.

My car is street driven, but switching from HPR to SIN I found the temps stayed a little bit lower (barely detectable).

Still using nulon 10 40,near enough to 430000 ks now,fantastick stuff.

:thumbsup:

Genelle, try the Nulon Semi-Synthetic 75W-90 Smooth Shift (Gearbox) and Nulon SAE 90 (Diff).

Fantastick Stuff Indeeds. :wave:

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...