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I've got my 100k service to do over the weekend

Going with the Penrite Racing 10-40, still tossing up in regards to the diff and gearbox oil. Will probably go with the Penrite product

I haven't tried the 10 tenths range yet, would a different oil actually lower the temps? or just safe to use at higher temps? will a thinner oil cause less friction thus lowering the temp? I also change the oil about every 4 drift events...

I would be happy if it stayed at 100 degrees but it will keep climbing unless I go into the pits :( hottest I've let it get was 120

drifting with a rb20, 30 row oil cooler and a 7" thermo fan bolted on i start a cool down lap at 100-105c

My gearbox feels sticky and harsh when cold and only really feels good once it's really hot after being driven hard.

The gearbox has been changed at some point in it's life, but I don't know if it's a gts-4 or gtr box, because the R32 gts-4 can take both right?

When searching the oil guides for R32 GTR (because there's no gts-4), Penrite's guide says to use their '80W-90 gear oil', and Nulon says to use their 'SAE 80 Smooth Shift'.

What should I do, try G70 before flushing it and changing to one of the above?

  • 2 months later...

So time has come to change my oil once again.

In the last couple pages of this thread there has been talk of using a flushing oil when servicing and adding engine treatment to the fresh oil.

Just curious as to the pros and cons and the reasoning behind such techniques?

I regularly use Motul xcess 8100 5w-40.

So time has come to change my oil once again.

In the last couple pages of this thread there has been talk of using a flushing oil when servicing and adding engine treatment to the fresh oil.

Just curious as to the pros and cons and the reasoning behind such techniques?

I regularly use Motul xcess 8100 5w-40.

The pros is the placebo effect makes you feel really good after you do it, you will be under the impression that it is running smoother and better, the cons are you just wasted $40. The only time I'd bother with an engine flush is if you have pitch black oil and sludge that needs to come out, eg the previous owner never changed the oil.

Can anyone tell me what is a safe oil temp for my r32 gtst? its a drift car with basic mods like a r34 neo turbo, hks intercooler, turbo back exhaust and a good cold air intake... also has some cooling mods such as a triple core alloy radiator, r34 viscous fan with shroud and large trust oil cooler with earls braided lines etc.

The oil is getting to 100 degrees very quickly, I always stop around then and let the car cool down but would be nice if I stay on the track for longer :) I was using penrite hpr 10 (synthetic 10w50) but have tried hpr 15 (15w60) and that made no difference.

Is there oils that are safe to use at say 120 degrees? Or could I possibly have an oil pump thats getting tired or some other issue?

any help would be appreciated :)

THanks

If you are getting to 120 degrees then something is wrong, or are you talking about after 6 laps on the track?

Edited by Rolls
  • 2 weeks later...

The pros is the placebo effect makes you feel really good after you do it, you will be under the impression that it is running smoother and better, the cons are you just wasted $40. The only time I'd bother with an engine flush is if you have pitch black oil and sludge that needs to come out, eg the previous owner never changed the oil.

I wouldn't even bother with an engine flush for that. If the oil changes are that far in between, the engine usually starts depending on the sludge to keep itself together. Flush it out and it'll make all kinds of fked up noises in the valvetrain!

Just change your oils people. Second job of oil is to clean your engine by removing the nasties. It cleans as it lubricates. Forget about gimmicks like running re-branded prepsol through your engine. Of course it's gonna get a heap of crap out, it's designed to break oil/grease down - oil that protects the engine. The only time you shouldn't change your oil is if the vehicle has gone for 80,000km without an oil change...in which case...leave it in there for the rest of the engine's limited life!

The only time you shouldn't change your oil is if the vehicle has gone for 80,000km without an oil change...in which case...leave it in there for the rest of the engine's limited life!

My old 1980s diesel mazda E2200 van was like that, I just kept adding oil to it and never once drained it, would burn/leak a whole 5L every 6 months lol.

I was using Motul xcess 5w-40 before i tried the gulf, basically in a nutshell.

Pressure would build up quicker with the motul oil

The gulf western made the car feel "lethargic", almost like it was slower to rev up

Otherwise that was it, it just felt different to drive....I mean I could be crazy and it could all be placebo, but there was definitely a difference in the way the car revved.

Ill see how i go with the Shell Helix Ultra 5w-40.

same happen to me, i am using Castrol EDGE 5w40 :(

same happen to me, i am using Castrol EDGE 5w40 :(

Funny enough I just put the castrol edge 5w-40 in my car. (Left the helix ultra on my shelf, maybe next change)

Seems better, but still the motul felt the best from memory.

I might grab a bottle of motul for my next oil change and see if it "feels" any different or if it was all in my head.

Speaking of oil temps - What is a good oil temp for oil to be at? When is it getting too hot? Wondering if i should put a oil cooler on or not.

Me too, I also hope to change my oil in my Skyline car, which oil recommend ?

R33 I use : Nulon hi tech fast flowing 10W40 synthetic + one bottle of Nulon E20 Engine treatment.

R31 I use : Nulon Semi Synthetic 20W50 + I will put some treatment in it when I remember to buy it.

Most people seem to have a favourite, pick one and try it, if not happy pick another and go again. ;)

Confused if I should go with Penrite Racing 10 10-40w or Penrite Racing 15 15-50w, Car has 81000kms on the clock with just the first stage mods, intake, front mount, exhaust, 12psi, power fc 211rwkw, thanks.

Edited by MrRx7s3

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