Jump to content
SAU Community

The Goods On Oils

PHaT MR30

By PHaT MR30,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 3.3k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

Any brand will work fine, some just last longer than others. I still believe you are better off using a cheaper ($50) oil and changing it every 5k rather than spending twice that and trying to strin

Kinks
Kinks

Royal Purple 10W-50, warm it between your hands for a few seconds then apply it to the area at the base of your shaft between your balls ..about as valid as any other opinion in this thread

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

F1 still use monograde 10 weight oils, hence the need to get the engine warm before starting it. Nothing stone age about it...

Posted Images

admS15 Grand Master

admS15

Posted
Posted

That 10-40 everyday Shiite has been out for a while. Used it a couple of times in an sr20, seemed OK. I ended up changing to castrol edge 10-60 to try and stop my flogged sr from making its ugly sr noises. I don't have an sr anymore. I'm now an rb fan. I've got about 15 litres of 10-60 stockpiled in my shed. I'm wondering if it will be OK to run in the rb25?

junkie Mentor

junkie

Posted
Posted

that penrite extra10 shite confuses the crap outta me. is it a 10w30 or a 10w40?? package says may be used where 10w-30 is recommended.

everyday 10w-40 made the v35 sump seal weep oil, was all wet. switched to nulon 10w40, dry as... so does that mean penrite everyday is really a 10w30 with some extra "protection'?

XGTRX Veteran

XGTRX

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yep diesel engine oils usually contain higher levels of dispersants to prevent the soot particles from agglomerating.

Historically they have always contained higher zinc which has significant anti-wear properties. They got rid of zinc in the 80s because of catalytic converter contamination fears but recently started to reintroduce it into petrol engine oils.

I have used it since 2007 in my LS2 and for 5 years in my RB.

When I blew my turbo couple of years ago I pulled the sump off and it was amazing. No deposits at all.

This is a link to the post with picture of my bottom end after 30000 km of abuse.

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/index.php?/topic/22458-The-Goods-On-Oils#entry7381708

Edited by XGTRX
Hadouken Grand Master

Hadouken

Posted
Posted

that penrite extra10 shite confuses the crap outta me. is it a 10w30 or a 10w40?? package says may be used where 10w-30 is recommended.

everyday 10w-40 made the v35 sump seal weep oil, was all wet. switched to nulon 10w40, dry as... so does that mean penrite everyday is really a 10w30 with some extra "protection'?

Technically, yes. It acts like a 30 weight oil.

gtr jet Veteran

gtr jet

Posted
Posted

If you put R32 GTR into Penrites recommendation guide, is says that HPR 5 SAE 5W-40 is the preferred one. The new, cheaper one may be a lesser oil.

It's just for my daily and the mrs car so all good. I use Castrol 10-60 in the GTR.

mr skidz Veteran

mr skidz

Posted
Posted

10w40 and 20w50 full syn oils should have everyone's bases covered,

I have no idea why anyone would want to use heavier oils in a high revving motor like an RB?

unless I had no oil cooler and I was bashing through a Dakar rally then maybe I would use a 60 weight

Missileman Veteran

Missileman

Posted
Posted

I use the the Penrite Racing 5 (5W-30) when I can find it on special, but most of the time I'll use the HPR Diesel 5 (5W-40) I have the Racing 5 in there now and it seems spin up a little quicker than the Diesel 5 that it replaced.

Will be interesting to see how the thinner stuff hold up during this summer.

  • 4 weeks later...
Humbla Grand Master

Humbla

Posted
Posted

Repco has nulon 1040 in 6ltrs for 50 bucks absolute bargain,been using this for hundreds of thousand ks fantastic stuff,no lifter noise on start up and lasts for 10000 ks my ol 33 loves it.:-) :-)

  • Like 2
  • 3 weeks later...
sleeper_gtr Enthusiast

sleeper_gtr

Posted
Posted

Great sticky, did a bit of research and just bought royal purple 10w40 high performance Street for 92 bucks for 5 litres and nissan oem filter for 20. Will hit 5k service on the weekend. Car currently runs smoothly but would like to see the difference at the high end of things after the change.

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

Great sticky, did a bit of research and just bought royal purple 10w40 high performance Street for 92 bucks for 5 litres and nissan oem filter for 20. Will hit 5k service on the weekend. Car currently runs smoothly but would like to see the difference at the high end of things after the change.

I'm Betting none.
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Cas issue

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • MBS206
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By MBS206 · Posted

      You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • sonicii
      Could it really happen......

      By sonicii · Posted

      I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...