Jump to content
SAU Community

The Goods On Oils

PHaT MR30

By PHaT MR30,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 3.3k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

Any brand will work fine, some just last longer than others. I still believe you are better off using a cheaper ($50) oil and changing it every 5k rather than spending twice that and trying to strin

Kinks
Kinks

Royal Purple 10W-50, warm it between your hands for a few seconds then apply it to the area at the base of your shaft between your balls ..about as valid as any other opinion in this thread

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

F1 still use monograde 10 weight oils, hence the need to get the engine warm before starting it. Nothing stone age about it...

Posted Images

admS15 Grand Master

admS15

Posted
Posted

That 10-40 everyday Shiite has been out for a while. Used it a couple of times in an sr20, seemed OK. I ended up changing to castrol edge 10-60 to try and stop my flogged sr from making its ugly sr noises. I don't have an sr anymore. I'm now an rb fan. I've got about 15 litres of 10-60 stockpiled in my shed. I'm wondering if it will be OK to run in the rb25?

junkie Mentor

junkie

Posted
Posted

that penrite extra10 shite confuses the crap outta me. is it a 10w30 or a 10w40?? package says may be used where 10w-30 is recommended.

everyday 10w-40 made the v35 sump seal weep oil, was all wet. switched to nulon 10w40, dry as... so does that mean penrite everyday is really a 10w30 with some extra "protection'?

XGTRX Veteran

XGTRX

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yep diesel engine oils usually contain higher levels of dispersants to prevent the soot particles from agglomerating.

Historically they have always contained higher zinc which has significant anti-wear properties. They got rid of zinc in the 80s because of catalytic converter contamination fears but recently started to reintroduce it into petrol engine oils.

I have used it since 2007 in my LS2 and for 5 years in my RB.

When I blew my turbo couple of years ago I pulled the sump off and it was amazing. No deposits at all.

This is a link to the post with picture of my bottom end after 30000 km of abuse.

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/index.php?/topic/22458-The-Goods-On-Oils#entry7381708

Edited by XGTRX
Hadouken Grand Master

Hadouken

Posted
Posted

that penrite extra10 shite confuses the crap outta me. is it a 10w30 or a 10w40?? package says may be used where 10w-30 is recommended.

everyday 10w-40 made the v35 sump seal weep oil, was all wet. switched to nulon 10w40, dry as... so does that mean penrite everyday is really a 10w30 with some extra "protection'?

Technically, yes. It acts like a 30 weight oil.

gtr jet Veteran

gtr jet

Posted
Posted

If you put R32 GTR into Penrites recommendation guide, is says that HPR 5 SAE 5W-40 is the preferred one. The new, cheaper one may be a lesser oil.

It's just for my daily and the mrs car so all good. I use Castrol 10-60 in the GTR.

mr skidz Veteran

mr skidz

Posted
Posted

10w40 and 20w50 full syn oils should have everyone's bases covered,

I have no idea why anyone would want to use heavier oils in a high revving motor like an RB?

unless I had no oil cooler and I was bashing through a Dakar rally then maybe I would use a 60 weight

Missileman Veteran

Missileman

Posted
Posted

I use the the Penrite Racing 5 (5W-30) when I can find it on special, but most of the time I'll use the HPR Diesel 5 (5W-40) I have the Racing 5 in there now and it seems spin up a little quicker than the Diesel 5 that it replaced.

Will be interesting to see how the thinner stuff hold up during this summer.

  • 4 weeks later...
Humbla Grand Master

Humbla

Posted
Posted

Repco has nulon 1040 in 6ltrs for 50 bucks absolute bargain,been using this for hundreds of thousand ks fantastic stuff,no lifter noise on start up and lasts for 10000 ks my ol 33 loves it.:-) :-)

  • Like 2
  • 3 weeks later...
sleeper_gtr Enthusiast

sleeper_gtr

Posted
Posted

Great sticky, did a bit of research and just bought royal purple 10w40 high performance Street for 92 bucks for 5 litres and nissan oem filter for 20. Will hit 5k service on the weekend. Car currently runs smoothly but would like to see the difference at the high end of things after the change.

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

Great sticky, did a bit of research and just bought royal purple 10w40 high performance Street for 92 bucks for 5 litres and nissan oem filter for 20. Will hit 5k service on the weekend. Car currently runs smoothly but would like to see the difference at the high end of things after the change.

I'm Betting none.
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Ahhh, I need the whole head unit. I definitely needed to roll back through and review your setup, ha ha! Neat setup they have going on. I just need a full double din head unit. But I want good and responsive. I might have to review what the likes of pioneer have out these days.
    • albyz34gt
      34 de+t conversion using s2 stagea automatic transmission, engine harness and ecu

      By albyz34gt · Posted

      Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Duncan
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By Duncan · Posted

      Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • GTSBoy
      Wheel Sizes & Offsets For Skylines

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
×
×
  • Create New...