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The Goods On Oils

PHaT MR30

By PHaT MR30,
in General Maintenance

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niZmO_Man Grand Master

niZmO_Man

Posted
Posted

Most of the post is what they feel/hear/see/smell and nothing factual >_<.

How about this?

I changed the oil on my GT-R on the weekend. Out came 5L of 10,000km old Penrite Racing 10, in went 5.5L of Premium 5. It shut the head up on cold start (few seconds of valve train noise).

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scotty nm35
scotty nm35

Any brand will work fine, some just last longer than others. I still believe you are better off using a cheaper ($50) oil and changing it every 5k rather than spending twice that and trying to strin

Kinks
Kinks

Royal Purple 10W-50, warm it between your hands for a few seconds then apply it to the area at the base of your shaft between your balls ..about as valid as any other opinion in this thread

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

F1 still use monograde 10 weight oils, hence the need to get the engine warm before starting it. Nothing stone age about it...

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danny14 Mentor

danny14

Posted
Posted

has anybody heard of the new oil type that motul are putting out now dany at garage 101 mentioned it to me one of there reps came around talking up a new race oil that is supposed to be super high quality unsure on the weights ??? motul swear by it and has backup from some of the fastest race cars around that are using it . apparantly bit pricey compared to your normal 8100 motul or whatever it is i havent used motul in a while i cant remember what the names are

does anybody have any insight into this ?

omnigear Proficient

omnigear

Posted
Posted

did you have the valve train noise on the previous oilchange?

How about this?
I changed the oil on my GT-R on the weekend. Out came 5L of 10,000km old Penrite Racing 10, in went 5.5L of Premium 5. It shut the head up on cold start (few seconds of valve train noise).

niZmO_Man Grand Master

niZmO_Man

Posted
Posted

did you have the valve train noise on the previous oilchange?

Nope.

It was a tongue in cheek post. The noise came after some thrashing. Oil was getting old anyway. The point is, any decent oil will protect your engine, provided you replace them (and the filter) regularly. Since most of the time my GT-R is putting around in economy mode, I change the oil every 10,000km (hence using $75 oil).

  • 3 weeks later...
Mayuri Krab Grand Master

Mayuri Krab

Posted
Posted (edited)

So I have being using GW Synx-3000 semi-syn oil for my car every 5000km or 6 month for a while & I'm wondering if I go with a full-syn oil would I be able to extend that interval to 10,000-15,000km or every 1 year?

Reason being I'm too lazy :whistling: & the Car (basic bolt on mods) is currently used by my mum driving back & forward to work, which is only ~6km or so & probably never sees boost (besides the time I take it for a drive).

Edited by Mayuri Krab
Booki Rising Star

Booki

Posted
Posted

short distance driving is normally considered "Harsh" driving by most manufactures, which in turn calls for more frequent servicing. I would stick with the 6 month, 5,000km. I would not extend it to 10-15k, but thats just me. Im fussy.

Mayuri Krab Grand Master

Mayuri Krab

Posted
Posted

Bought some Penrite 10W-40 Everyday plus as it was on special & $1 (almost 6 Yuan worth of savings! :yes:) than GW Syn-X 3000.

Will see how it goes but my initial verdict is: probably would make f**k all difference...

  • 2 weeks later...
scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

I have noticed that the Penrite Premium 5 (5W-60) runs hotter (operating temp seems to be 90-100°C) than Racing 10 (10W-40, sits around 85-95°C-ish).

It might be the design of the oil, but I definitely need to run an oil cooler.

I noticed the same thing going from Liqui Moly 10w40 to 10w60, I think the extra pressure causes the oil to heat quicker... or something.

I will be going back to a 10w40 next change as 100psi oil pressure cruising at 2500 revs seems excessive. lol.

FordyR31 Mentor

FordyR31

Posted
Posted

I asked the question in another thread and it was answered regarding Nulon street and track 15W 50 vs Nulon extreme 10W 60. I usually use the 15W 50. I have a track day coming up and bought more of the street and track. What I don't understand is the difference between the two. In this instance I am obviously wanting to know which would be best for a 25DET, standard internals with bolt ons maing 230ish rwkw. I would like to know about it so I can make my own decision. I have read through here a bit but people tend to use abbreviations and I have no idea what they mean.

Jazzadub Enthusiast

Jazzadub

Posted
Posted

I asked the question in another thread and it was answered regarding Nulon street and track 15W 50 vs Nulon extreme 10W 60. I usually use the 15W 50. I have a track day coming up and bought more of the street and track. What I don't understand is the difference between the two. In this instance I am obviously wanting to know which would be best for a 25DET, standard internals with bolt ons maing 230ish rwkw. I would like to know about it so I can make my own decision. I have read through here a bit but people tend to use abbreviations and I have no idea what they mean.

15W-50 will be fine. Just monitor your oil temperatures and if you're creeping around 120C maybe look into getting an oil cooler.

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