Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

all very interesting stuff for turbo'd cars

reading the figures on the last page, it would seem that the $/km ratio comes out almost the same as (or a little worse than) normal petrol- so there'd be no savings to be had in trying to specifically tune and run N/A cars on this just to save some dollars?

re: the E85 giving lower peak, but higher average, cylinder pressures- the reason is because ethanol burns more slowly than petrol

Okay... spent pretty much the whole day on the Dyno today.. a mate came up from sydney and we had a play with his GTR first.. then we chucked my car on and had a few goes at the IM240 emissions test.

I must say it was friggin hard to drive the bouncing ball on the line properly, the first time i totally botched it.. second time i got better and so on... I noticed on the analyse screen that the emissions were not even showing up.. Now I think its because the emissions are sooo damn low that its not registering on the scale (i like to think positive) or the software was not working properly.. I think it was working properly because I got to click on different parts of the test and see the emissions at that part of the test and the emissions was very very low once i finished tuning it properly.

I only have one tune for the emissions test, it took me a few goes to get it right and anything i ever did to tune made it worse so I just worked on the one program.

After a few tests i decided to do a power run, Firstly I have never got more then 303rwkw from the street legal tune i had.. Street legal for me is the oil catch can plumbed back into intake, the CAT converter is ON the car and the wastegate is plumbed back into the exaust with no more then 20psi of boost (lowest setting from the wastegate springs)

Was suprised, with 10.05 AFR all the way it bagged 320rwkw... I could not believe it... the power was up 20kw straight away. I leaned it off to 11.8AFR and plugged a few deg of timing into it and gave it another go.. Was very impressed with the results!

e85power.jpg

To give you a idea of the difference in power, i saved a old power run in the same dyno in street form and made a comparison print out. Remember the timing was only touched on the top end and there was PLENTY more tuning left into it to make it more responsive and come on boost quicker and make more power. I has only 15deg of timing in it and the knock from my KMON was only reading 30 knock compared to the 40 from the previous week on pump 98.

Remember this comparison is only a 10 minute e85 tune, I seriously did STUFF all to tuning the timing to see how much extra power i could squeeze outta it because today my mission was to tune for emissions, and i think 340rkw emissions legal tune is pretty damn good as it.. no point pushing it more... "today" :)

98vse85.jpg

Sorry bout the bad e85 line, the damn Mainline dyno made the print out YELLOW and it was hard to read when scanned so i kinda fixed it up to make it readable.

So yeah my day was successfull and i have a emissions tune ready to go for wednesday! The car is driving sooo nice now it has NEVER driven that good EVER. I am pretty sure I will be sticking to e85 from now on and use it as much as I can because its sooo much better then 98 its just insane.

The BIGGEST thing i noticed about the fuel is how EASY it was to keep a perfect line when doing power runs, i swear i only spent 2 power runs and 2 goes to get the line that straight. I also really noticed it on cruise, just 2 press's on the + / - on datalogit made a STABLE difference and the AFR's were very stable.

I cannot stress on how good this fuel is, its just NUTS. Lets see how good it is on wednesday!

Anyway peoples! I spend shitloads of time and money and effort into these tests and posting up the results so tell me what you think ?!?

I would like to thank Wayne at hunter all wheel dyno who donated me soo much Dyno time to make this happen! The things we can do on that Dyno is insane!!! His details are on the power run sheet :bunny:

Cheers.. Anthony

Looking good so far , out of curiosity what are you measuring EGT with .

Cheers A .

Also that TE digital readout looks good , I have one as well but not used yet .

Did you get the green one? its hard to read during the day. but at night its good.

I got a thermocouple EGT sensor made up from a company at coffs.. and i got Peter @ WB02 to setup my wide band so i can connect it directly to it, then i purchased a additional display (the round one) and got a configuration file, at the moment i am only getting a percentage of the max reading but it gives me an idea for tuning / changes. I have been too lazy to get it working properly, but last week i emailed techedge and they are working on writing me another configuration script. Will be good when its configured correctly.

Those results are great.

You said that on your final power run the afr's were 11.8. Does that mean you are using the same amount of e85 as bp98?

NO. the AFR reads 11.8 because the sensors are reading in Lambda... the wide band setups are converting it to AFR using the gasoline conversion which makes it look like its running normal fuel but its not. So its really running a fair bit more fuel, probly 7afr or less....

I could have changed it the ethanol on the dyno and tuned it to the correct AFR but there is no point.

May not be something you can answer, but if the engine was tuned to make the same power on Ultimate and E85 (say, 300rwkW), what would be the comparative specific fuel consumption in L/hr?

between 20% and 35% more fuel consumption using e85.

There is no way to tell what l/h you are using. Too many variables to take into account when making a call like that.

But if you want to know, Hunter All Wheel Dyno has the facility to hook up the fuel system to the dyno and we can read all that information for you :)

May not be something you can answer, but if the engine was tuned to make the same power on Ultimate and E85 (say, 300rwkW), what would be the comparative specific fuel consumption in L/hr?
between 20% and 35% more fuel consumption using e85.

pretty much confirms what i was thinking

as was stated towards the start of the thread, E85 is a much cheaper option than buying performance fuels in drums to get big power numbers, but anything less than a 20-25% price difference between E85 and E10 would rule out using the higher percentage blend as a way of reducing running costs in non-performance cars

cheers

p.s- yeah, i know gas is a better option than anything for that sort of thing

At the moment there probably isn't enough E85 around for the price to be indexed to ULP .

In one of the links I posted it mentions that in some parts of North America there are govt bonuses being paid to servos who gear up tanks/pumps for E85 though its still a large capital outlay for each site .

Going back a bit I was struggling to find standards info for handling E85 but I did post a link to some American info .

Gary went looking for an MSTS and I don't think he found one .

Anyhow great results and thanks for sharing .

A .

Found this .

Edited by discopotato03
Is there any where that lists where you can get E85, i even looked at the united web site and they dont even list that they have it at roselle.

if you look earlier in the thread, disco put up some web sites.. one of them is where it is available.

Great read Tony, and congrats on the power/emissions results. Keep us posted with progress :)

Cheers mate, i aint going to be singing and dancing till the emissions test is passed, the more i think about it the more i think it might fail. I failed the first time i went last time too but at least i will get the print out and know whats going on to change it for the next test.

btw i hate tony ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...