Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

How do you get rid of the mist/fog on your headlights. I've got xennon's on mine and I can see white fog/mist on the plastics. I thought it was on the outside but it appears on the inside. When i go wash the car they disappear but after 10-20 minues they come back.

I know it's an inherent thing with Stagea's but I would like to fix it and keep it clean (man why Nissan couldn't make it glass to save us some time and the headaches)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/239796-xennon-headlights-mistfog/
Share on other sites

i remember spoting something at supercheap to fix this. it involves removing headlight, pouring in the liquid and moving the light around so all the area gets covered and voila. 1 shinny new looking piece of clear plastic apparently...

I took mine off and took them to a plastics shop where they sanded them back with a very fine sandpaper and then buffed them. They came up great, made them clearer at night and the only thing wrong with them now is the ageing cracks on the inside of the plastic cover. Best bet is to do what the others have said and use a plastic polish, or if you have access to a buff, you could always try sanding and buffing.

Use meguiars PlasticX plastic polish and then protect them with PLEXUS.

i can vouch for this, my old 33 headlights went crappy as they all do, used the PlastX on them, and they came up like literally new.

even ScratchX will work if you have that.

Looks like i'm going to go find some PlastiX and Plexus - where's the best place to buy them from??

RBPOWA - Use it on the outside, most people say it's on the outside where it fogs up and it would be a pain the in you know where if you had to do that on the inside

As I said before why didn't Nissan use glass instead of plastic...we'll never know

I usually get my plexus from marine chandlery shops, great for tail lights as well (originally designed to protect plastic aircraft windscreens). PlastX was harder to find, ask at supercheap maybe.

For those looking for a cheap intermediate solution (while trying to hunt down the above mentioned products)...try using toothpaste. Most toothepastes are mildly abrasive - enough to "polish" the headlights. DO NOT get it on the paint (or anywhere except the plastic headlight) obviously but it will clean up the plastic headlights fairly well if you use a bit of elbow grease (and wash it all off afterwards). I've done it a couple of times before and it works ok - not as good as meguiars PlasticX plastic polish but may be all you need.

WARNING: try it on a small patch of the light first to make sure it works on your car. (end of disclaimer).

brasso works too. ive used it on mine. it got rid of the yellowish hepatitis tint on the headlight :banana:

you hardly have to rub. just apply a small amount on a rag, rub over a small area, give it a minute to dry, and then wipe it off with a clean rag.

i cant compare it to plasticx etc. but it works pretty well for surface issues.

sorry to hyjack ur thread but does anyone have any issues with moisture getting inside their parking lighs on their s1 stags? My passenger side does it and it looks crap IMO. Any ideas on how to fix? I tried some windscreen glue but obversly didnt get all the holes or leaks... any other ideas?

do not use tooth paste . sure it is abbrasive and will polish things BUT unlike actual polish it has no control over the size of the grinding particles . think about it . and dont use it on glasses and cds and everything else someone who thinks their clever has told you

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
×
×
  • Create New...