Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think the GT-RS has a way to small exhaust side for an RB25. Massive back-pressure up-top.

The ultimate bolt-on responsive turbo for the RB25 has gotta be the HKS GT2835 Pro S bolt-on kit.

http://www.hks-power.co.jp/products/turbo/...o/ac_gtpro.html

It's pretty much the spot-on size in both the compressor side and the turbine side.

  • Replies 93
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i have to agree there...

mine hits full boost at 32-3500 and stays on till my 7400 redline...

i have an exhaust cam gear to bring it on earlier (at the exoense of like 10rwkw up top) and the car is an animal

Guess depends on if you wanna drive round or sit at home jacking off over dyno sheets...

You could combine the two....

Maybe that's why some people carry a dyno sheet in the glove box, all makes sense now!!

Just reading through this and you need to ask yourself do u want responsive power or laggy as hell.

I agree with hks gtr-s or 25/35 (30) for responsive power although may not pull the higher figures.

Guess depends on if you wanna drive round or sit at home jacking off over dyno sheets...

what a crock of shit.

i have a 3582r with a .82 rear and and i can see 24 psi by 4k

most of the other figures quoted from the other turbos in this thread are all full boost somwhere in the 3k - 3.5k range

and you will find 90% of gt30 size turbos are all gonna be around the 4k mark as well.

so what do you call laggy as hell?

imo do it once and do it properly

a gt3582r/iw will fit low mounted no worries, running at 15 psi you will make between 250 - 270 rwkws.

if the motor gets rebuilt then up the boost and make 350rwkws.

the thread title has been answered you make up your mind what your looking for.

remember guys you can build a mental set up and just detune it for reliability.

i have a GT-RS and a GT3040 and there is no doubt the GT-RS is the more responsive turbo. increases in throttle application generally you get more instant joy out of the GT-RS.

however, the GT3040 (aka GT3082) isn't too shabby to drive around, it needs a few more revs onboard but makes much more power once it is going. ultimately the compressor will be choked by the turbine on this version but it is a pretty good thing. so i am guessing it will feel not too dissimilar to a GT3582 at 75-80% of its max.

personally, i think something that can make 270-300rwkw for a rear wheel drive car is the best bet. this is about the limit of traction on road tyres and inside a power level for keep the stock engine chugging along for a while with good tuning.

so that means GT3076 sized turbo if funds permit with the addition of a merge collector manifold you can bring the boost threshold down.

so that means GT3076 sized turbo if funds permit with the addition of a merge collector manifold you can bring the boost threshold down.

so many people say that turbo is the go mate what u mean by merge collector manifold

How about the HKS GT2540? I don't see many people talking about this turbo. It's a direct bolt on as well to the RB25 Engine.

Probably because they are the laggiest turbo for the power they make and the cost to obtain them and I'm not sure HKS even make them anymore so the odds are that one you buy will be many years and kms old.

GT3076R as stated, is ftmfw

what are they worth mate

i have nfi to be honest, best to find one in kit form so its all nice and easy to bolt up , iv'e seen them as low as $1200 for the rb kit 2nd hand (the turbo is easily rebuildable). dr drift was looking into getting copies fairly cheap , it might pay to email him (he made 300+rwk with one, its in the rb25 upgrade thread)

Edited by toffy

here ya go , his exact words on his :thumbsup:

Want to make a few changes, upgrade radiator and maybe some coilovers, and the gearbox is whining after the weekend... Will try and make next day at Basky!

As for the L2, yes it's an EXACT copy... we've completely pulled the turbo apart and put it side by side with a genuine L2 and you CANNOT spot the difference...

Response on the 25 is pretty stupid, and I haven't even hooked up the VCT!! More to be had :D

Pulled the intake pipe off this aftenoon, and with over 1000km now on it (most of it HARD) there is absolutely no signs of wear at all!

I'm negotiating direct with manafacturer to try and get these in a bit cheaper, but I'm going to have to order min 10 pcs!

Edited by toffy
Assuming he does not take it to drag/drift/track days every weekend and keeps away from the rev limiter and a host of other variables that will kill an engine that is on the limit.

My 25 only sees drag/drift/limiter... But I do concede it seems abnormal for a stock 25 to make 305 rwkw reliably with 25 psi copy L2 and other budget bolt ons!

trust td06 l2 20g :spank: their maximum efficiency is right on the limit of a stock rb25 imo

Hell, even push them past their max efficiency... they just sing!

what are garrett 3082r like are they more laggy then a 3076r

turbo is rated at 600hp front cover is Ar .70 and .63 rear for quicker spooling

what would u pay for a second hand one

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...