Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

made it in by .5 of a rwkw :D

400.5rwkw

2530's

smallish cams, 256

Powerplus E85

mid to high 21psi

Racepace adj cam gears, all for response (let the E85 take care of the top end)

built 26, not 100% on pistons hence no 24psi runs etc.

400_a0001.jpg

that's some great torque! what are your head mods? what is your exhaust set up?

nice one mate. :) nearly 200kw @ 4,000 is not bad and 330kw at 5,000 is awesome. it must be hauling arse from about 4,000 upwards. I'll bring the 32 down soon. mine has slightly bigger cams, bigger exhaust, 2530s, HKS manis vs your tomei manis but otherwise our set-ups are similar. if mine cracks 400kw at 21psi I'll be over the moon. and then see what it does on 25psi!

made it in by .5 of a rwkw :D

400.5rwkw

2530's

smallish cams, 256

Powerplus E85

mid to high 21psi

Racepace adj cam gears, all for response (let the E85 take care of the top end)

built 26, not 100% on pistons hence no 24psi runs etc.

400_a0001.jpg

Do you have any more graphs please?

Would like to see where it starts to come on against my 3L with 5's.

Old tune, first dyno pull, EBC off;

3000rpm 150kw

4000rpm 235kw

5000rpm 280kw but it's already hit top boost without the EBC and stays there till redline.

Seems the best setups are 5's or 2530's although the 5's have that extra low end at least on my untuned engine.

That torque curve looks like a real handle to drive, what is it like ss8?

It's 4WD ATTESSA... all that it comes down to is tyres.

Good rubber, forward movement.

Bad rubber, sideways then forward movement.

Either way justplant the foot and hang the fk on.

Old tune, first dyno pull, EBC off;

3000rpm 150kw

4000rpm 235kw

5000rpm 280kw but it's already hit top boost without the EBC and stays there till redline.

Seems the best setups are 5's or 2530's although the 5's have that extra low end at least on my untuned engine.

All things being equal the latest result posted doesn't make the RB30 look that good. Noted: different fuel, etc.

just found this so i thought id add;

full hks step2 head (272&280cams, valves, and hks spec ported head)

full hks step2 bottom end

trust drag cooler

greddy plenum with larger throttles

t88-34d 22cm

hks silent hi-power exhaust (full cat, mid muffler and exit chamber)

pump fuel + 20psi = 468kw + 590nm @ all 4 (7800rpm)

Edited by dahandfull

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...