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Time for updates, Its been a bit of a journey,

Ran the garret 37/88 at just under 600 hp for a while but still felt it should have made more.

Did a refresh on the engine and added a crank trigger assembly plus a crg manifold and a precision 64/66.

ran it to 600 hp on the dyno and the turbo siezed solid. Not happy jan.

Junked the precision and went with an MTA 900. Its a whole new world.

we now sit at 680 hp on 30 lb at 7200 rpm

. thats enough for now but its by no means near its limit.

at 30 lb the MTA is making 80 hp more than the precision at the same boost and has a much fatter curve.

Will post both graphs later.

Oh... That was you! The results were way low, if the Precision crapped out I wonder if it was playing up or there was some other issue the whole time.... Awesome that you have it sorted now, and all is well, but the performance difference between those turbos seems unlikely if both were performing properly - albeit very very impressive if that is a realistic indication of how that turbo goes against a healthy 6466!

  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...

For those of you with 400kw atw in a GTR, do you have traction issues when coming onto boost in 2nd gear?

My R32 GTR at the moment is spinning from 4000rpm to redline in second under acceleration and doesn't grip until I have changed to third.

Is this normal or does my 4WD system need looking at?

EDIT: I should mention that tyres are AD08R 255/40/17 with 70% tread on them

Edited by Chris32R

Haven't got a front LSD, just standard open centre in there atm. I have a carbon 1.5 way LSD waiting to go in..

The rears just spin up really quickly and it feels like the fronts come in and try to pull the car along. I don't have a 4WD controller either, just using the standard system.

I'd be interested to know if others with similar power have the same problem or whether they get traction all the way through 2nd gear.

Already done Marko. Have completely flushed and bled out the Attesa system in the car and put new transfer case fluid in and still no joy.

I did notice that when trying to bleed the hydraulic system with the electrical connector unplugged to put the pump in bleed mode, the fluid was very slow to come out of the bleeder screw. This leads me to think that the pump isn't working as it should

Edited by Chris32R
  • Like 1

I got my ATS carbon 1.5 way through Jesse Streeter in Japan. It wasn't cheap though. I went with carbon to try and keep the driveability nice whilst low speed cornering.

I believe quite a few members have gone with the Quaife front diff and are very happy with their performance.

Pretty sure these can be bought for a reasonable price from justjap.

Whereabouts did you get your 1.5 way centre for the front diff?

I've got the engine out at the moment and I'm definitely thinking of changing the diff before re-installing the engine

One of the best mods you can do to a GTR IF you like to get on the power early in a corner.

  • 1 month later...

I suppose I can finally be part of this club

Tomei Advanced spec RB26 Crate Engine

GT2860R-5 Turbos

Mines dump pipes (ver II)

Nismo Plenum

1,000cc injectors

Midori Ti Front Pipes (80mm)

Venom 5in body HiFlow Cat

Tomei 3.5 Expreme Ti Catback exhaust system

Fuel System - two Bosch 044 pumps plumbed to dual 044 surge tank with walbro 450 as lift pump

E-Flex Tune

Haltech Platinum Pro ECU

IMG_2043_zps9ad9d9dc.jpg

450rwkw @ 27psi

  • Like 1

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    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
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