Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so the s2 rwd stageas can be converted with a v35 6 speed geabox conversion kit from the post stated a few posts above ?

No body has done it, but it seems pretty straight forward. Need the interior bits and pieces, pedals, and hydraulics too. Then figure out if the ecu needs any auto gearbox inputs.

Give it a go I say ;)

No body has done it, but it seems pretty straight forward. Need the interior bits and pieces, pedals, and hydraulics too. Then figure out if the ecu needs any auto gearbox inputs.

Give it a go I say ;)

well if my mates can fit a 260 boss engine into their r33 drift car, i cant see how they couldn't do this! waiting on advanced jap auto imports to give me a price.

Edited by adambruv

well if my mates can fit a 260 boss engine into their r33 drift car, i cant see how they couldn't do this! waiting on advanced jap auto imports to give me a price.

Anything is possible depending on your determination and funding. Been proven as dcdc is building a manual m35 with a r34gtr gearbox. Scotty was looking at a 350z 6 speed a while ago and I think the issue was the tunnel fitment when can be massaged to make fit.

well if my mates can fit a 260 boss engine into their r33 drift car, i cant see how they couldn't do this! waiting on advanced jap auto imports to give me a price.

Getting the mechanicals in place will be the easiest part of an NM35 manual AWD conversion.

Getting all the ECU's to play nice with one another, will be the trick with this one.

  • 2 months later...

The starter motor is on the other side I am fairly sure, you would have to compare the two to see if the 3.5 sump might be able to be used? Running the manual V35 3.5L engine, ecu's, bcm, relay box etc and wiring loom would be a must I think, and a great can of worms.

Hopefully the chassis is similar enough, otherwise nothing might fit. The AWD stagea chassis is completely different to the V35 chassis...

The Stagea 350s came in a 6 speed manual, it was an Autech version. I reckon if you could get that in your VQ25DET it would be sweet....if you can get it in.......if it is suitable....if it was cheap enough ...so many if's

Jules

Yes, I watched one of the Autech 6 speeds at Japanese auction house with 70,000k's sell for $12,000 nzd. 3 times more than standard M35 and auto Axis models. They only come in a 2.5L engine I thought with the 6 speed.

The starter motor is on the other side I am fairly sure, you would have to compare the two to see if the 3.5 sump might be able to be used? Running the manual V35 3.5L engine, ecu's, bcm, relay box etc and wiring loom would be a must I think, and a great can of worms.

Hopefully the chassis is similar enough, otherwise nothing might fit. The AWD stagea chassis is completely different to the V35 chassis...

So the best bet is actually a complete engine swap including the transmission, starter, sump etc to a 3.5, rather than keeping the 3.0DD in there

Yeah thats true.

Yeah the guy over here did his with a toyota box IIRC. Same as the ones in supras etc. Think the 30det was out of a Cedric or Gloria.
Looks like the best way to go really, although I would like to keep a nissan box in there, I'm kind of strange like that.

A car swap is the way to go, but I like my car. The blue with the aero kit is hard to come by over here in NZ

Nz engineers report, certification, teething problems etc.

I've always driven manuals, current work vehicle is a 6 speed, totally over it. Can't wait for the auto wagon to arrive.

Gone for me are the days of spending thousands of dollars to modify some shit box I purchased, only to sell it later and lose money.

Save the cash, buy the vehicle you really want that doesn't require a gas axe, maybe get a few bolt ons.

The vehicle will have a good resale value cause it has not been modified.

Nz engineers report, certification, teething problems etc.

I've always driven manuals, current work vehicle is a 6 speed, totally over it. Can't wait for the auto wagon to arrive.

Gone for me are the days of spending thousands of dollars to modify some shit box I purchased, only to sell it later and lose money.

Save the cash, buy the vehicle you really want that doesn't require a gas axe, maybe get a few bolt ons.

The vehicle will have a good resale value cause it has not been modified.

I can get all that, half my family is in that business.

I've only had manuals up until now, I'm not 100% sure whether I'd be over the auto if I got it done, but I think it would add something to the car.

However, I completely see where you are coming from, and I agree with the good resale value.

Nz engineers report, certification, teething problems etc.

I've always driven manuals, current work vehicle is a 6 speed, totally over it. Can't wait for the auto wagon to arrive.

Gone for me are the days of spending thousands of dollars to modify some shit box I purchased, only to sell it later and lose money.

Save the cash, buy the vehicle you really want that doesn't require a gas axe, maybe get a few bolt ons.

The vehicle will have a good resale value cause it has not been modified.

Couple of things I don't agree with. :D

If you're ganna get cut about the resale of yo modified car doesn't that defeat the whole modifying purpose in the first place? When I buy shit for the car I don't think "fu*k, this is going to fu*k my resale value to all fu*k and beyond."

I also don't agree with the "good resale" part... Good resale to me is a profit, property normally has good resale not cars.

I modify my car for personal gain, as in learning something and my own limits of what I can do. To me my car brings value to me in terms of enjoyment, I enjoy seeing it become something else that I've done or achieved with the car.

  • Like 4

Couple of things I don't agree with. :D

If you're ganna get cut about the resale of yo modified car doesn't that defeat the whole modifying purpose in the first place? When I buy shit for the car I don't think "fu*k, this is going to fu*k my resale value to all fu*k and beyond."

I also don't agree with the "good resale" part... Good resale to me is a profit, property normally has good resale not cars.

I modify my car for personal gain, as in learning something and my own limits of what I can do. To me my car brings value to me in terms of enjoyment, I enjoy seeing it become something else that I've done or achieved with the car.

agree whole heartedly. plus they way i look at it the only better wagon in the world is an Audi RS6 which is damn expensive so spending a few grand to make it compare with an RS6 is worth it as i still saved nearly $200K :D

  • Like 1

Couple of things I don't agree with. :D

If you're ganna get cut about the resale of yo modified car doesn't that defeat the whole modifying purpose in the first place? When I buy shit for the car I don't think "fu*k, this is going to fu*k my resale value to all fu*k and beyond."

I also don't agree with the "good resale" part... Good resale to me is a profit, property normally has good resale not cars.

I modify my car for personal gain, as in learning something and my own limits of what I can do. To me my car brings value to me in terms of enjoyment, I enjoy seeing it become something else that I've done or achieved with the car.

I only ever start thinking about the " oh fu€k " when I go to resell, end up losing money and wish I had more money to spend on my next vehicle. Lack of funds = missed opportunity.

Good resale is not losing crap loads of money, you don't need to make a profit. If I broke even at a point of sale, then I was happy.

Most of the time with modified vehicles, I ended up spending lots of money, investing lots of time, stuck with a highly modified old car by the time I got bored with it. People were reluctant to buy because they don't know what kind of "can of worms" it was and for the same asking price, could purchase a newer more modern car that had superior design and engine qualities stock standard.

I guess I just got tired of always being broke.

agree whole heartedly. plus they way i look at it the only better wagon in the world is an Audi RS6 which is damn expensive so spending a few grand to make it compare with an RS6 is worth it as i still saved nearly $200K :D

Yeah, that's until VW release the Golf R wagon...

ge4817405686714551991.jpg?height=290&aspge4621749494090823862.jpg?height=290&asp

ge4882115345865930879.jpg?height=290&aspge5610221529843885781.jpg?height=290&asp

http://www.motoring.com.au/news/small-passenger/volkswagen/golf/spy-pics-volkswagen-golf-r-estate-42493?utm_content=bufferabd6c&utm_medium=social&utm_source=facebook.com&utm_campaign=buffer

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
×
×
  • Create New...